THE PRACTICAL 
FLOWER GARDEN 



•n^^o. 



THE MACMILLAN COMPANY 

NEW YORK • BOSTON • CHICAGO 
ATLANTA • SAN FRANasCO 

MACMILLAN & CO.. Limitkd 

LONDON • BOMBAY ■ CALCUTTA 
MELBOURNE 

THE MACMILLAN CO. OF CANADA, Ltd, 

TORONTO 



Digitized by the Internet Archive 
in 2010 with funding from 
The Library of Congress 



http://www.archive.org/details/practicalflowergOOelyh 



THE PRACTICAL 
FLOWER GARDEN 



BY 

HELENA RUTHERFURD ELY 

AUTHOR OF A WOMAN 8 HABDY GARDEN, 
"another hardy garden BOOK, " ETC. 



WITH ILliUBTBATIONS MADE FROM PHOTOGRAPHS TAKEN IN THE ATJTHOB'B 
QABOEN, AND IN THE "CONNECTICOT OABDBN" 



^shi fnrk 
THE MACMILLAN COMPANY 

LONDON: MACMILLAN & CO., Ltd. 

1911 

All rights reserved 






Copyright, 1911 
Br THE MACMILLAN COMPANY 



Set up and electrotyped. Published April, 1911 



J. Horace MoFarland Company 
Harrisbiirg, Pennsylvania 



©CLA2S3973 



THIS BOOK IS DEDICATED TO 

MY BEST FRIEND AND 

SEVEREST CRITIC 



PREFACE 

TTN this little book are given the results of 
my experience in practical work in the 
flower garden during the last five years, in 
caring for the grass and evergreens, arranging 
flowers to secure constant color effects, raising 
plants and trees from seeds, and the use of 
fertihzers most suited to the needs of the 
various plants and productive of the best 
results. 

The chapter on the Wild Garden owes its 
being to the maker of the " Connecticut Gar- 
den," who has given me frequent opportunities 
of watching its development, and much of the 
information contained in the chapter. To him 
also I am indebted for the beautiful photo- 
graphs which may serve as an inspiration to 
those who would find deHght in creating a 
similar garden of native plants and shrubs. 

March, 1911 

vii 



TABLE OF CONTENTS 



PAGE 



I. Color Ai'rangements of Flowers . . 1 

II. Some Green Things of the Earth . . 39 

III. Raising Flowers from Seed . . .69 

IV. Raising Trees from Seed . . .95 

V. Fertilizers and How to Apply Them, 

Together with Some Plant Remedies . 117 

VI. A Little About Terraces and Their 

Treatment . . . . .149 

VII. The Wild Garden 163 

Shrubs, Vines, Plants and Bulbs which I 

have grown successfully . . .193 



IX 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 



COLOR PLATES 

I. Looking into the sundial garden Frontispiece 

II. The poppy bed .... 

III. One of the long grass paths 

IV. A clump of delphiniums 
V. An entrance into the formal garden 

VI. Entrance to the cedar walk . 
VII. A bit of pink border 
VIII. The garden when the Canterbury bells 
are blooming .... 

FULL-PAGE HALF-TONE PLATES 

1. A group of yuccas .... 

2. A hedge of hydrangeas 

3. An old-time entrance 

4. The guardian of the garden 

5. The circle at the top of the cedar walk 

6. The hill country in which lies the garden 

7. Asters following iris and lilies 

8. A tangled corner .... 

9. Meadow-burn ..... 
10. Decorative effect of a potted plant 



FACINa 


PAGE 


• ^^x 


. 44 


^« v^ 


. 76 


. 92 


. 104 


. 124 


3 

. 128 


FACIirO 


PAGE 


. 17 


. 32 


. 35 


. 46 ' 


v^ 


. 51 


^x 


. 62 


. 87 


. 90' 


. 115' 


. 126 



XI 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 

11. The lily and iris garden . 

12. A simple gateway 

13. An old brick terrace 

14. The formal quality of trained ivies 

15. The Terraces, Fayrewold . 

16. At the foot of the terrace 

17. Connecticut garden foreground and wood- 

land borders 

18. Brook-side descending lane 

19. Elm gate vista 

20. Wild geese pool by garden approach 

21. Massed bed August and Autumn perennials 

22. Overlooking the "Marigold Meadow"" 

23. The Cedar Path to Gray Glen . 

24. The brook in springtime .... 



FACING 
PAGE 

133 
140' 



147 



s/ 



158*'' 

167 

170"^ 

172 '■' 
177 "" 
181 "' 
183 ' 
186 ' 
188 " 
192 ' 



ILLUSTRATIONS IN TEXT 



25. Azalea mollis . 








PAGE 

195 


26. Deutzia crenata 








197 


27. Deutzia crenata 








198 


28. Hibiscus 








199 


29. Japanese maple 

30. Magnolia conspicua 

31. Magnolia Soulangeana 

32. Magnolia stella 








200 
202 
203 
204 


33. Syringa, Marie Legraye 

34. Lilac 








207 
208 



Xll 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 









PAGE 


35. Kalmia latifolia 211 


26. Rhododendron maximum 






. 213 


37. Anemone 






. 220 


38. Starwort 






. 222 


39. Bocconia 






. 224 


40. Coreopsis grandiflora 






. 227 


41. Delphinium 






. 228 


42. Delphinium 






. 229 


43. Funkia . 






. 233 


44. Helleborus niger 






. 235 


45. Japanese iris . 






. 238 


46. Lilium auratum 






. 241 


47. Peony 






. 245 


48. Papaver orientale 






. 246 


49. Platycodon 






. 250 


50. Trillium grandiflorum 






. 253 


51. Aster, Ostrich Plume 






. 259 


52. Cosmos . 






. 264 


53. Nasturtium 






. 271 


54, Sweet Peas 






. 278 


55. Clematis Jackmani . 






. 282 


56. Crocus 






. 287 


57. Narcissus, Emperor . 






. 288 


58. Narcissus, Sulphur Phcenis 






. 290 


59. Narcissus, Von Sion 






. 291 


60. Narcissus ornatus 






. 292 


61. Narcissus poeticus 






. 293 


62. Tulip, Picotee 






. 294 



Xlll 



COLOR ARRANGEMENTS OF 
FLOWERS 



CHAPTER I 

COLOR ARRANGEMENTS OF FLOWERS 

^HOULD those winter town-dwellers who 
are lovers of nature, and whose thoughts 
during the ice-bound months continually 
wander to their own gardens or to trees and 
green places which they know and love, 
chance to take a short trip into the near 
country in mid-March, a brightness and 
touch of warmth in the sunshine, and cer- 
tain awakenings of nature, will bring to them 
a thrill of delight in the knowledge that 
" the winter is past." 

Snowbanks may be lingering in dark nooks; 
there may still be a fringe of ice upon the 
brooks that wander through the woods; 
but in marshy places the skunk cabbage 
is unfolding its broad leaves; the downy 
buds are expanding upon the willows; many 

3 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

maples show a tinge of the red of coming 
blossoms; grass that has been properly cared 
for is already emerald-green; crocuses and 
snowdrops are bravely blooming in sheltered 
places, and, if one gently lifts the covering 
of the beds where daffodils have slept 
through the winter, their slender green tips 
will be seen pushing through the brown 
earth. Frogs in sunny ponds are beginning 
to pipe their shrill song, the robins have 
come back, and the town-dweller returns to 
the noisy city of brick and stone possessed 
by the longing that spring calls forth, to be 
at work among the growing things and to 
watch nature as she comes to life again. 

The happy owners of gardens know that 
now no day should be lost. With every new 
sun, the buds on ' trees and shrubs expand 
and the plants awaken, one by one. The 
ground must be prepared, seeds sown, and, 
in fact, the most delightful season in the 
gardener's life has come, for now she is 
inspired by hope. The many misfortunes 

4 



COLOR ARRANGEMENTS OF FLOWERS 

that may overtake her garden in later months 
have now no place in her thoughts. Rose 
bugs, mildew, cut-worm, rust, and the dread- 
ful summer drought, have for her, as yet, 
no existence. Every seed will germinate and 
become a sturdy plant which will blossom 
the season through. All the color arrange- 
ments planned will satisfy her anticipations; 
the spring, summer and early autumn are 
to bring her ample fruition for her present 
labors; for the blessed new birth of imagina- 
tion and hope, which comes to the nature- 
lover in the youth of the year, makes all 
things seem possible. 

Even an experienced gardener is often 
led away by the fascinating descriptions in 
the plant and seedsmen's catalogues, whose 
pictures both fire and bewilder the imagina- 
tion. And what could be more heavenly for 
a woman gardener than to be able to grow 
all these flowers and plants, and to attain 
the marvelous results pictured in the cata- 
logues; to have all the space she wanted in 

5 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 



^ 



which to grow them, to have all the men 
she needed — really good and efficient men— 
to cultivate them, and a husband who never 
grumbled about the amount of manure or 
fertilizer she used ! 

We who have borne the stress of many 
years of gardening are now generally able, 
when making our spring and autumn lists, 
to harden our hearts to the temptations 
offered us in the pages of the catalogues. 
Of course, we often want everything we see, 
but are able to keep ourselves within limits. 
We can sympathize with and understand, 
however, the difficulty of the young woman 
who is making her first garden, and know 
well how she often spends time and money, 
only to reap disappointment. When she reads 
in catalogues such descriptions as "Mag- 
nificent flowers, strong and robust," " A 
new type of phenomenally robust growth," 
"Magnificent and indispensable flowering 
plants," we know how easily she may be 
misled. 

6 



COLOR ARRANGEMENTS OF FLOWERS 

It is not necessary to have in her garden 
every plant that any one else has had, but 
we should endeavor to achieve our results 
by growing those flowers which are best 
suited to the locality where we live, and 
which give us the most remuneration for 
our trouble, and then, as our experience 
grows, gradually increase the varieties. 

Of course, one often tries a new plant, 
from a desire to experiment or from curios- 
ity, just as one chooses a " salad Marguer- 
ite " or a " coupe San Jacques," or other 
dish with a strange name, from a restaurant 
menu, and returns again to the old flowers, 
as to the simple dishes. 

There will often be a visitor come to see 
the garden, generally a woman, who will 
look about critically and then remark, " I 
do not see such and such a flower ;" when 
you must acknowledge that you not only 
have not grown it but have never heard of 
it. But do not be discouraged, as such 
inquiries are not meant unkindly, and even 

7 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

the largest garden has not space for every 
flower that can be grown. 

Enough cannot be said upon the advan- 
tages of close planting, which produces not 
only a more even effect of color, but also 
an appearance of greater luxuriance. The 
flowers really do better when closely set, as 
the ground is thus shaded by the foliage, 
and does not become so dry as where the 
planting is sparse. 

We should also practice intensive garden- 
ing, which provides successive crops of flow- 
ers in the same bed or border, and better 
utilizes every inch of space, arranging so 
that one flower will promptly follow an- 
other in the same place. The asters should 
be fine plants ready to take the places of the 
Canterbury bells; gladioli should be planted 
to bloom where the foxgloves stood; cosmos 
should be raised to spread its feathery 
branches where the tall hollyhocks have 
been cut down; tuberous-rooted begonias 
should be planted to fill later the places in 

8 



COLOR ARRANGEMENTS OF FLOWERS 

the border where tulips welcomed the spring; 
and seedlings of annuals should be set every- 
where, — not one or two of a kind planted 
indiscriminately, but so that each border 
will have masses in colors that blend. 

All of this work requires much thought 
and experiment, opens a wide and fascina- 
ting field to the amateur, and gives an added 
zest to the joys of gardening. 

Even before the frost has entirely left the 
ground, shrubs, hedges, vines, and climbing 
roses should be fertilized, so that the spring 
rains may carry the tonic directly to the 
roots of the plants. Manure (it no longer 
can be called " barnyard," since in no self- 
respecting barn-yard can manure be gath- 
ered today), mixed with bone meal in the 
proportion of five shovels to the wheelbar- 
row of manure, is best for the purpose. 

As soon as the ground can be dug, shrubs 
and hardy vines should be transplanted, or 
set out. All soft-wooded trees, such as pop- 
lars, willows, catalpas, tulips, magnolias, as 

9 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

well as both purple and copper beech and 
the larch, must also be set out in the early 
spring before growth begins. 

Attractive plantings, made in the autumn, 
of shrubs and bulbs which bloom at the same 
time in the spring, are: 

Early daffodils, which have been covered 
during the winter to bring them forward 
sooner, may be grown under and around the 
forsythia bushes. 

The pink-flowered crab apples, of which 
Bechtel's, Parkman's, and Siberian are good 
varieties, may be planted with the long- 
stemmed May -flowering rose-pink tulips, min- 
gled with crimson and white bybloem tulips 
and a few clumps of the pale lavender German 
iris springing from the grass around them, 
will make a lovely corner about May 15th. 

Gesneriana tulips bloom at the same time 
as the Spircea Van Houttei, and are effective 
together. 

Columbines, with lavender and white rock- 
ets grown in quantities, together with late- 

10 



COLOR ARRANGEMENTS OF FLOWERS 

blooming white lilacs, such as Mme. Casimir- 
Perier, and Marie Legraye, have been very 
nice in my garden. 

Azalea mollis, with late yellow tulips, 
together with Deutzia rosea and the delici- 
ously scented daphne, make satisfactory com- 
binations. 

Late yellow or pink tulips may be planted 
around a clump of pink double-flowering 
almond; and, as the German iris blooms at 
the same time with the syringa, of which 
Grandiflorus is the best variety, a quantity 
of this iris, in many varieties, is lovely when 
grown in a bed surrounding the syringa. 

A beautiful shrubbery can be composed 
by using weigelia, varieties Rosea and Eva 
Rathke, the golden-leaved syringa, both pink 
and white deutzia, Japanese snowballs, both 
the golden and the variegated elder, some 
Japanese maples both red and yellow-leaved, 
two or three purple-leaved plums, a few cedars, 
and a few retinisporas, with an occasional 
Lombardy poplar at the back. 

11 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

Such a shrubbery, now about seven years 
old, probably two hundred feet in length, 
grows along the front of a beautiful place on 
Long Island, and forms a lovely screen 
between the house and the highway, which 
is thus entirely shut out. The syringas, wei- 
gelias and Japanese snowballs are in full 
bloom at the same time, and their blossoms, 
together with the golden and silvery foliage 
of the alders and elders, the purple of the 
plums, and the dark green evergreens add- 
ing strength to the whole, make it a most 
remarkable shrubbery. It is interesting to 
know that this was planned unaided by a 
woman, although she has an excellent 
gardener. 

During- the last week of May and the first 
ten days of June, the gardener finds his 
busiest time. All the annuals must now be 
lifted from the seed-bed and transplanted to 
the places where they are to grow. The young 
plants must also be taken out of the hotbeds 
at this time, which is a work that can be 

12 



COLOR ARRANGEMENTS OF FLOWERS 

done only late in the afternoon, between four 
and six o'clock, as the seedhngs should have 
the cool night in which to recover from the 
operation of transplanting. The gladioli and 
tuberoses must be set out; the weeds which 
grow over night must have attention; the 
grass must be cut every three or four days; 
fresh crops of vegetables must be put in the 
vegetable garden; and then, on some fine day, 
when everything seems to need attention, 
the gardener insists that the potatoes must 
be cultivated, and there come moments when 
one wishes that there was no such thing as 
a vegetable or potato crop on the place. 

The most interesting of all gardening is in 
the cultivation of herbaceous plants. These 
hardy perennials bloom luxuriantly, give a 
wide range of color, and are of varied heights. 
A great landscape architect recently told me 
that in his opinion it required more intelli- 
gence and ability, even with the assistance of 
annuals, to keep an herbaceous border effec- 
tive in color, and in good condition, than to 

13 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

run an orchid house; he added the remark 
that, after trying new plants every year, he 
had found that the Hst of really desirable per- 
ennials and annuals did not greatly increase. 

In making an herbaceous border where 
many diifferent - colored plants are to be 
grown, the effect will be more beautiful if 
white flowers in quantity are planted between 
each of the different colors, care being taken 
to allow a few plants of the palest shade of 
each color to drift among the white, so that 
the transition may be less abrupt. If a plan 
of the planting be made in advance, the work 
will be easier and more successful. Hetero- 
geneous planting is often painful. Pink and 
blue flowers, red, purple, and yellow, must be 
arranged to produce artistic effect. 

Larkspurs, for instance, are far more beau- 
tiful when grown in great masses of each dif- 
ferent shade, or with white Japanese iris and 
Lilium candidum, than in smaller clumps in 
a border where many other colored flowers 
are planted. Pale blue larkspur with the 

14 



COLOR ARRANGEMENTS OF FLOWERS 

dark variety, Formosum, behind it, and pale 
yellow coreopsis and pale yellow calendula in 
the foreground, make an attractive planting. 

Early one July, my baby grandson was 
christened in our quaint little church in the 
country. Larkspur, and candidum lilies, with 
which I have at last been able to succeed, — 
both of which flowers are so exquisite in the 
garden, and so perishable when gathered that 
one should always cut them judiciously, — 
were in their prime in wonderful quantity. 
And, on this great day, we were able to fill 
a large clothes-basket with the stalks of the 
lilies and the branches of the pale blue Del- 
'phinium ccelestinum, and take them to make 
the little church beautiful, without missing 
any from the garden. 

Since there have been herbaceous borders 
of only one or two colors in my garden, the 
effect has been more beautiful and the 
arrangement simplified; and this plan is 
likely to be adhered to for some time to come. 
But one must always keep an eagle eye upon 

15 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

the borders, to be sure that plants are not 
allowed to go to seed; for the best of gar- 
deners often fail to realize that all flowers 
will bloom much longer if seed-pods are kept 
from forming. One of the men does e very- 
morning what I call " giving a fatherly- 
touch to the garden." He begins at one end 
of the place when he first comes on duty, and 
with shears and basket goes through the 
entire garden, taking off every withered 
flower or leaf, thus preserving not only the 
neatness of the place but the perfection of 
the plants. This, being done regularly, is 
done easily, and takes hardly an hour a day. 

The white border is my greatest delight; 
the flowers grown in it are exquisite at night 
as well as in the daytime. 

At the back of the border are Bocconia 
cordata, the spireas, Aruncus and Gigantea, 
and white hollyhocks. These tall plants are 
followed in September by the mammoth cos- 
mos, which is started under glass to insure 

16 



COLOR ARRANGEMENTS OF FLOWERS 

its blooming before frost. Then there are 
Lilium auratum, L. alburn^ and L. candidum, 
which bloom from June until frost, and, 
if planted from fifteen to eighteen inches 
deep, seem to succeed far better than with 
shallower planting. Tall spikes of Hyacin- 
thus candicans, Physostegia Virginica alboy 
flowering in July for a month, Achillea, 
which generously blooms the whole summer 
through, white phlox, both early and late, 
white lupins and dictamnus, both of which 
bloom for a month from the middle of May, 
foxgloves, Lysimachia clethroides. Campanula 
medium, some clumps of white Japanese iris, 
and the old-time valerian, filling the air with 
its delicious perfume in May. 

For annuals, there are stocks, sweet sultan, 
the white cornflower, Cyanus alhus. Empress 
candytuft, snapdragons, asters and gladioli. 

The pink border, or indeed an entire garden 
of pink flowers, is not difficult of attainment. 
Pink hollyhocks and cosmos, many shades 
17 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

of phlox, Lilium ruhrum^ L. rubellum, and L. 
magnificum, pink lupins which are more 
beautiful than either the white or blue vari- 
eties and easy to raise from seed, Incarvillea 
Delavayi, Sedum spectabile, Canterbury bells, 
and some pink columbines, Spircea elegans 
and pink dictamnus, should be planted for 
May blooming. 

Then the pink annual larkspurs, camellia- 
flowered balsams, which in rich soil are 
wonderful plants. Phlox Drummondiy which 
flowers all summer if not allowed to seed, 
tuberous-rooted begonias, each plant of which 
is a mass of blossoms for three months, ver- 
benas — glorified editions of the old-time ver- 
bena — which should be started under glass 
with the cosmos, and, if there is place for them, 
gladioli, so necessary for bloom in September. 

The blue border is more unusual, and, 
although I have visited many gardens in 
many countries, I have never seen a planta- 
tion of blue flowers only. 

18 



COLOR ARRANGEMENTS OF FLOWERS 

Larkspurs, monkshood in early and late 
varieties, including the light blue variety, 
Aconitum Wilsoni, Veronica grandiflora, platy- 
codon, the campanulas, varieties Persicifolia, 
Glomerata and Pyramidalis, and the lupins, 
are six perennials which would alone keep a 
blue border pronounced in color for three 
months; but when you add columbines, eupa- 
torium, Anchusa Italica, Baptisia Australis, 
Scabiosa Caucasica, blue salvia. Salvia azurea 
and Centaurea Cyanus, the wonderful new blue 
gladioli, large-flowering ageratum and lobelia, 
which are always in bloom, and the faithful 
asters which, however, have a violet tinge, the 
blue border becomes a source of great interest. 

A few white flowers, such as white platy- 
codon, the feathery Bocconia cordata, Lilium 
album, L. candidum, and achillea, rather add 
to the beauty of the blue border and seem to 
make its color more lovely. 

In the red border are red hollyhocks, 
scarlet lychnis. Phlox Coquelicot, Tritoma 

19 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

Pfitzerii, the old-time monarda or bee balm, 
Pentstemon barbatus Torreyii about which 
many continually ask, " What is that beauti- 
ful flower?" scarlet Phlox Drummondi, the 
scarlet Gladiolus Brenchleyensis, salvia Bon- 
fire, and cannas, and geraniums which may 
be added to carry out the color scheme. 

There are, of course, many other beauti- 
ful flowers in these four colors; but, after 
several years of experiment, these lists have 
been found to comprise the most satisfactory 
plants in simplicity of culture and the amount 
of flowers they yield for use in the one-color 
border. As such borders are for effect, flow- 
ers can be gathered from them but sparingly; 
elsewhere in the garden should be grown 
both perennials and annuals in rows like veg- 
etables, to supply flowers for cutting. 

Stocks, both white and pink, gladioli in 
the same two colors, snapdragons, Lilium 
rubellum and L, speciosum magniflcum can 
be successfully planted together, and if the 

20 



COLOR ARRANGEMENTS OF FLOWERS 

stocks and snapdragons are started under 
glass, they can, by proper feeding, be made to 
bloom continually from early in June until ice 
forms. The lilies continue to unfold their 
buds for over a month, and the gladioli, if 
two plantings of them are made, will blossom 
for a long time; last summer, when grown 
with other flowers in my garden, the stalks 
of gladioli were over five feet in height, evi- 
dencing the effect of rich soil. This height 
also gave much beauty to the plantation. 

White Japanese anemones, white tuberous- 
rooted begonias and tuberoses, are satisfac- 
tory when grown together; and if white May- 
flowering tulips be added, and the begonias 
started under glass in March, they will begin 
to bloom in June, so that this white corner 
will be a constant delight. 

Poppies and sweet peas are the first flower 
seeds to be sown in the spring. It is difficult 
to sow the poppy thinly enough, as every 
seed seems to germinate, and the plants 

21 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

should be three inches apart, not only in 
order to develop and produce more flowers, 
but that they may continue in bloom for a 
longer period. Sown in large masses in all 
the many varieties, poppies make a wonder- 
ful show for three weeks. When the last 
petals have fallen, if the soil be enriched and 
cultivated, the poppy bed can again be made 
beautiful by transplanting into it young aster 
plants either of all shades of pink with white 
in the many varieties, or of purple and lav- 
ender shading through the delicate tones to 
white. The poppy bed in my garden is fifty 
feet long and eighteen feet wide, giving oppor- 
tunity for a fine mass of color. 

Asters, in the catalogues of annuals, are 
what phlox and larkspur are in the perennial 
family. Early in September, when the asters 
were really wonderful in my garden, and 
there seemed to be no end to them, I asked 
one of the gardeners how many had been 
transplanted. His reply was, '* about ten 
thousand." As I rather doubted this state- 

22 



COLOR ARRANGEMENTS OF FLOWERS 

ment, he showed me a bed of young Canter- 
bury bells transplanted for blooming next 
summer, saying that he had counted them 
that morning, that there were nine hundred 
plants in the bed, and that it could be seen 
at a glance that there were ten times as many 
asters then blooming in the gardens. 

For those who care for yellow and orange 
flowers, a border of splendid color may be 
made by planting the hardy perennial sun- 
flowers, both single and double, helenium or 
sneeze weed, gaillardia, coreopsis and calli- 
opsis, the marigolds and calendulas both 
orange and yellow, the different varieties of 
yellow day lilies, the tritomas, the trollius or 
globe flower, the California poppies, and the 
faithful nasturtiums. A beautiful combina- 
tion with the yellow and orange is made by 
adding purple and magenta flowers, such as 
the tall liatrus or Kansas gay feather, magenta 
dahlias, the Verbena venosa, the giant ruffled 
magenta petunias and dark magenta phlox. 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

This magenta phlox, by the way, is quite a 
different color from that which we find in our 
gardens grown from self-sown seed, which is 
of a light purplish color. The new magenta 
phloxes have large heads of bloom, as well 
as large individual blossoms, and grow quite 
four feet in height. 

A very effective color-planting can be 
made by growing dark crimson snapdragons 
with a tall variety of ageratum and edging 
the plantation with dwarf ageratum, the 
combination of blue and rich crimson being 
unusual. 

There is one flower, the petunia, of which 
I must speak with apology because of the 
things I have written and said about it. The 
very name petunia calls to mind the ugly 
white and purple varieties that flourished in 
our mothers' gardens; but, through the skill 
of the hybridizer, the petunias today are 
among the most beautiful of all annuals, par- 
ticularly the great giant ruffled and frilled 
varieties. The Snowstorm, a flower with a 

24 



COLOR ARRANGEMENTS OF FLOWERS 

golden heart, is a continual mass of blossoms, 
as is also the Rosy Morn, which is pale pink 
as its name would indicate. There is an infi- 
nite number of other varieties, and they help 
us out immensely with our color effects. 

Last summer, a bed of heliotrope surrounded 
with giant ruffled petunias in shades of lilac 
with golden centers was continually beauti- 
ful for nearly five months; and a carpet of 
Rosy Morn petunias, growing in a bed where 
Lilium auratum and L. magnificum raised 
their great stalks of lilies, entirely concealing 
the earth, added greatly to the effect. 

The hybridizer has worked wonders, also, 
with the verbenas. The new varieties form 
trusses nearly as large as the top of a tea-cup, 
and give a continuous mass of color in white 
or pale rose until quite late in the fall, as 
they stand considerable frost. 

The Celosia plumosa, or cockscomb, has 
become, through the skill of the growers, a 
wonderful flower in many colors besides the 
old crimson variety. It grows about three 

25 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

feet in height, with plumes a foot in length. 
A brilHant yellow and a flame color are per- 
haps the finest. The seeds should be started 
in the hotbeds, to prolong the period of bloom, 
and the seedhngs transplanted several times 
before being set, either in the ground, where 
the plants should be a foot apart, or in six-inch 
pots. When a foot high, they will be glad of 
a Httle bone meal, and during all their bloom- 
ing period should be fed with doses of liquid 
manure, at least every two weeks. 

The annual larkspurs, too, are greatly 
improved in variety, and are useful for cut- 
ting; if the seed-pods are not allowed to 
"form, they bloom continuously all summer. 

A bed of pale pink and delicate lavender 
annual larkspur is a lovely color combina- 
tion. 

Godetia, a low-growing plant about a foot 
in height, will thrive in poor soil, in a sunny 
location, and is covered with flowers — pink, 
white, crimson, and of every color, splashed 
with white. 

26 



COLOR ARRANGEMENTS OF FLOWERS 

Salpiglossis, in its many colors, also blooms 
continually. It does rather better if started 
in a hotbed, and the plants should be set 
about eight inches apart. 

Schizanthus, which also has flowers of pink, 
white, rose and crimson, is continually in 
blossom. It is a delicate, dainty plant, and 
perhaps best suited for pot-culture. By 
sowing the seeds in March, frequently trans- 
planting until they are finally set in an eight- 
inch pot, these plants will reward one for the 
trouble given them, and, as they are yet but 
little grown, excite much interest. 

As we live with our gardens, plantings 
which once were entirely satisfactory cease 
in time to be all that we could wish; and we 
experiment and devise other arrangements, 
and generally find the changes make for 
improvement. Such a radical change was 
made in my little rose garden, where formerly 
the beds were carpeted with pansies, and a 
border which surrounded it was edged with 
pink and white sweet william. Back of this 

27 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

border, and surrounding the whole garden, is 
a hedge of pink and white altheas, which has 
now grown so high that the garden is quite 
hidden from view. The rich soil used for the 
roses, with the frequent watering, stimu- 
lated both pansies and sweet william to great 
effort. Their blossoms added to the color of 
the garden, and I was secretly much pleased 
with the effect. 

One day in mid-June, when the little rose 
garden was in perfection' of bloom, my 
daughter critically remarked at luncheon, 
"I do not like those pansies and other 
things in the rose-garden; everything there 
should grow up straight and neatly, and it 
is not bad if the earth is seen between the 
plants." Criticisms made by one's children 
are trying, but sometimes appropriate. Most 
of that afternoon I spent in the rose garden, 
visited it again in the evening, and slept 
little during that night thinking the matter 
over. It seemed cruel to drag out all those 
beautiful blooming plants. But by morning 

28 



COLOR ARRANGEMENTS OF FLOWERS 

I had decided to make the change; so, com- 
ing down very early, I found the gardener, 
went with him to the garden, and gave 
directions that every pansy and sweet 
wiUiam be pulled up, the beds and borders 
edged, and that all must be done neatly 
and immaculately before the men went to 
dinner. 

Then I fled, to return only after my orders 
had been carried out. At first the little gar- 
den seemed bare and shorn of much beauty. 
But the daughter's criticism proved to be 
right, and now only gladioli grow among the 
roses, while all along the edge of the border 
is a row of tall tuberoses, which grow three 
feet in height with heads of bloom a foot in 
length, and perfume the night air deliciously. 
Every one approves the change. 

We often reproach ourselves for fickleness 
when we find that we regard with aversion 
people whom we have long known and liked, 
because, in the lapse of years, they seem to 
have acquired unpleasant peculiarities, for- 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

getting that we may ourselves have changed. 
May we not reproach ourselves equally when 
ceasing to care for plants which once we 
prized? Three flowers dear to me ten years 
ago I now entirely dislike; the crimson ram- 
bler rose, rudbeckia and Hydrangea grandi- 
flora. The rudbeckia has been cast out of 
the garden. Nearly all of the crimson ram- 
bler roses have been taken up, leaving only 
a few arches and a short trellis of them, and 
the Pink Dorothy Perkins has been substi- 
tuted; but a long hedge of hydrangeas still 
remain, although I now exclude them from my 
vision, and regard them as if they did not exist. 
These brave plants are so hardy and free- 
blooming that they have found a place from 
one end of the country to the other, and are 
grown everywhere, yet, because of their very 
merits which made them so universally 
groTSTi, they have become distasteful to many. 

A beautiful plantation for August and Sep- 
tember is of pink and white summer-flower- 

SO 



COLOR ARRANGEMENTS OF FLOWERS 

ing cosmos, pink and white Japanese anemo- 
nes, and pink and white asters ; such a border, 
in the garden of a relative, was, for quite six 
weeks, beautiful beyond my power to de- 
scribe. The same flowers could be used, 
either all white or all pink, and would be an 
equally good arrangement. 

This same relative makes a specialty of her 
spring garden. Living all the year in the 
country, she has the great joy of watching 
the wonderful phases of nature, — clouds, sun- 
light and shadow, — and knows the magic of 
the changing seasons. For six weeks in the 
spring her garden seems as if touched by a 
fairy wand, so exquisite are its colors. 

It is not large, and much of the work is 
done by her own hands. She is indefatigable 
in having her borders made over at the proper 
intervals and in keeping the soil in good 
condition. Whei., in the autumn, a border is 
re-made and the perennials planted, the bulbs 
are then set and remain until the border is 
again taken up. The bulbs are planted from 

31 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

four to six inches deep, and, at the end of 
May or first of June, annuals are planted 
over and about them. The planting is so 
close that it remains a mystery to me how 
a trowel can ever be put into the soil 
without cutting a bulb. 

In the border where, later, larkspur, vale- 
rian, Anchusa Italica and blue annuals 
bloom, there are, in early spring, the large 
white crocus and the lovely blue scilla. 

In a yellow border, the daffodils, Emperor 
and Empress, are followed by early single 
yellow tulips and late double yellow tulips. 

The borders on either side of a path are 
filled with early white tulips, to be followed 
by the Cottage Maid, which is pale pink. As 
the petals of the pale pink tulip fall, the late- 
blooming Isabella, a large, double pink tulip 
almost as large as a peony, comes into flower, 
and is in turn followed by the exquisite 
Picotee, which remains in bloom for nearly 
three weeks, and is, at first, white faintly 
tinged with pink, becoming at last almost a 

32 



COLOR ARRANGEMENTS OF FLOWERS 

light American Beauty rose color. Along the 
edge of this border Narcissus alhus plenus 
odoratus and N. poeticus odoratus are grown 
in two rows. 

Another border is filled with the scarlet 
and white Pottebakker tulips, and edged with 
Narcissus poeticus. 

Still another border contains Sulphur 
Phoenix daffodils in pale yellow and white, 
with the bright yellow Emperor, hyacinths 
in pale blue, blush-pink and white, and is 
also edged with Narcissus poeticus. 

A very lovely pink and yellow border is 
filled with early and late varieties of daffo- 
dils and early and late pink tulips. 

All these bulbs are planted by the thou- 
sands, and the quantity of flowers and length 
of bloom with the arrangement of colors, 
make this spring garden far more beautiful 
than the best I have ever seen elsewhere. 

Some suggestions for color-planting are: 
Ageratum, variety, Princess Pauline, in a 
33 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

bed edged with sweet alyssum, variety, Car- 
pet of Snow, both of which must be shghtly 
trimmed from time to time, to be kept 
blooming. 

Scarlet verbena, Defiance, in beds edged 
with the same sweet alyssum. 

Lobelia fulgens, variety, Queen Victoria, 
having scarlet flowers with bronze foliage, 
the bed being edged with Centaurea gymno- 
carpa, which is a silvery white plant. 

Broimllia, speciosa major which is deep 
blue in color, grown with dwarf yellow snap- 
dragons. 

Tagetes, a very dwarf yellow and brown 
marigold, grown with heliotrope of some 
large-flowering dwarf variety of dark color. 

Snowstorm petunia and ageratum, variety, 
Princess Pauline. 

Petunias in all shades of magenta and 
magenta splashed with white, with calendu- 
las growing back of them, and behind the 
calendulas African marigolds. 

A quantity of the nicotianas planted to- 
34 



COLOR ARRANGEMENTS OF FLOWERS 

gether with A'', affinisy white; N. SanderoB 
hybrids of many colors with A^. sylvestrisy 
white; red tuberous-rooted begonias with 
lobeHa, Crystal Palace, deep blue. 

Canna, President Meyer, of a bright red, 
w^ith bronze foliage, growing four feet high, 
planted with Impatiens Sultani, surrounding 
them. 

DraccBna indivisa, with Rosy Morn petunia. 

Pennisetum, the purple fountain grass, 
planted with the orchid -flowered Canna, 
Wyoming, which bears immense spikes of 
orange flowers and has bronze foliage. 

The literature in all languages upon gar- 
dening, and the references to gardens in 
poetry and prose, both ancient and modern, 
as cultivated, restful, romantic and beautiful 
places, is infinite. In the Old Testament 
many allusions are to be found. We read of 
*' the garden of nuts," " the garden of herbs," 
and *' the garden of cucumbers." 

It is a fancy of many women today to have 
an herb garden, but the cucumber, in the 

35 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

time of the prophet Isaiah, who speaks of a 
lodge in a garden of cucumbers, and of 
Baruch, who says " hke a scarecrow in a gar- 
den of cucumber, which keepeth nothing 
away," must have been a different vegetable 
from the one we now cultivate under that 
name. 

We read that *' the garden causeth the 
things that are sown in it to spring forth," 
and the similes, " as gardens by the river- 
side," and " like a watered garden," are 
refreshing mental pictures to those who know 
the heat and dryness of the East. 

Every garden has its particular charm, 
and rarely is one to be seen from which we 
can turn without having gained some new 
idea of color arrangement, of certain plants 
in wonderful perfection, or of something 
which gives delight and inspiration. The 
little gardens about laborers' cottages, where 
the few flowers mean so much to the man or 
woman who cares for them in moments before 
or after a long day's toil, touch the heart as 

36 



COLOR ARRANGEMENTS OF FLOWERS 

no great gardens can, although the latter 
may be more complete with all that nature 
and art combined are able to accomplish. 
Every lover of flowers has her own ideas 
upon the subject of gardening. My ideal 
garden is one a little distance from the house, 
and so surrounded by trees and enclosed by 
hedges that the windows of the house cannot 
look down upon it; — a lovely out-of-doors 
room, as it were, neat and orderly like the 
rooms of the house, where every plant is 
brought to its highest development and 
nature trained by man gives constant and 
luxuriant bloom, where the green setting of 
trees, hedges, box-edging and fine turf, and 
the colors blending without a jarring note, 
fill one with a sense of delight and thanks- 
giving for the beauty of the spot; a place 
where one may walk or talk, read or work, 
quite unobserved, with the sunshine all 
around, yet seated in cool shade, and with 
the murmuring of falling water and the 
exquisite notes of the song sparrow, or the 

37 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

liquid call of the catbird in one's ears. AYhere 
on this earth can any place be found more 
exquisite and peaceful? Into such a garden 
INIaud may have been called by her lover, 
and to such a little Paradise Solomon may 
have referred in his Songs of Songs where he 
sings of a *' garden enclosed." 



88 



SOME GREEN THINGS OF 
THE EARTH 



CHAPTER II 

SOME GREEN THINGS OF THE EARTH 

^I^HE chief beauty of any country place, 
whether it be but an acre in extent or 
a great estate, will always consist in its trees 
and evergreens, its shrubs, hedges and lawns. 
A country place may be entirely beautiful 
where no flowers are grown, if the trees and 
shrubbery are well planted and the lawns are 
in fine condition; but house and garden, how- 
ever well arranged, will fail greatly in attrac- 
tion if the setting which surrounds them is 
unworthy. 

The making of lawns is a subject demand- 
ing a book by itself, and excellent books have 
been written giving all possible information 
for those who wish to make their lawns or 
grass paths. It is therefore my purpose to 
give only my own experiences in keeping the 
grass in good condition. 

41 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

When a person has once become interested 
in preserving the turf about her place, it will 
be found a most engrossing, and delightful 
occupation. Until this interest is aroused, 
many who are really excellent flower or vege- 
table gardeners may be both ignorant of the 
care of the grass and unobservant of its con- 
dition. A man who was an excellent flow^er 
gardener once said to me, *' I do not bother 
with the grass except to keep it cut; so long 
as there is 'something green,' I am satisfied." 
Probably the "something green" was in his 
case, as in many others, composed of chicory, 
moss, plantain, dandelion and sparse grass. 
Where the turf is thick and fine, there is not 
much place for weeds to root, and on a fine 
surface of grass a weed is immediately appar- 
ent to the watchful eye. 

Many professional gardeners, as well as 
those who are amateurs, seem to think that 
if in winter they scatter over the lawn man- 
ure, which is often crude and raw from not 
being sufficiently decomposed, therefore hav- 

42 



SOME GREEN THINGS OF THE EARTH 

ing in it many seeds of weeds, — if they rake 
this off in the spring and then put the lawn- 
mower to work, regardless of dry weather, or 
whether the lawn may be so burned by 
drought that there is really no grass to mow, 
they have done all that is needed. We have, 
all of us, I fancy, seen men mowing sun- 
burned lawns, and wondered why they were 
doing so — and also watering the grass at a 
time and in ways which were more harmful 
than not. It requires a great deal of water 
to wet sod even one inch in depth; and, when 
only the top of the earth is wet, the roots of 
the grass, instead of sinking deeper, as they 
should, come to the surface to find the moist- 
ure, with the result that any grass so treated 
will eventually become burned. 

The lawn that has been properly put down 
in the first instance is not difficult to keep in 
excellent condition, and with even slight care 
its yearly improvement should be great and 
continuous. Early in the spring the ground 
should be gone over carefully and every 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

weed taken out by the roots. These will be 
found to be mostly dandelions and plantain. 
When the weeds have been taken out, the 
workman, who should have a box of grass 
seed by his side, should put a pinch of 
seed into the hole where the weed has been 
and press the sod well down. When the 
whole lawn has been thus gone over, it is 
well then to sow seed thinly broadcast and 
roll it in thoroughly. Two men can push a 
three-hundred-and-fifty-pound roller, which 
is heavj^ enough to keep the grass in good 
condition. Sufficient emphasis cannot be 
laid upon the advisability of frequent rolling 
for the grass. The roots, which have been 
disturbed by thawing and freezing or long 
drought, are thus firmly set in the earth, and 
the whole surface of the lawn made compact 
and even. 

When the newly sown grass seed has ger- 
minated and the young grass is a couple of 
inches high, cottonseed meal can be sown 
broadcast with great advantage. This may 

4,4 




ONE OF THE LONG GRASS PATHS 



SOME GREEN THINGS OF THE EARTH 

be sown so that the grass has a yellow look; 
in case no rain follows within a day, the hose 
should be attached to the sprinklers and the 
water turned on so that the cottonseed meal 
is at once watered into the roots of the new 
grass. I was first told of the benefit of cot- 
tonseed meal to grass about ten years ago by 
a gentleman who sat next to me at dinner. 
He told me, to my great surprise, that it 
would make two blades of grass grow where 
only one had been before, and during all 
these ten years I have used it on my own 
lawns and paths to the greatest advantage. 
In fact, some seasons my men have asked me 
not to use it, for it causes such a growth that 
if there is sufficient rain during the spring 
the grass must be mown every three days. 

About May 1st, a further tonic may be given 
to the lawn by sowing broadcast finely 
ground bone meal and wood ashes mixed 
together, equal parts of each to the bushel, 
and sown so as to give the lawn a light gray 
color. This should be again watered in and 

45 



THE TRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

rolled. About a ton of cottonseed meal to 
the acre, and the same quantity of the bone 
meal and wood ashes mixture, may be used 
to advantage. 

This treatment should carry the lawns and 
grass paths through even our hot and dry 
summers; and if there are places worn by 
much use, a solution of nitrate of soda — one 
pound of nitrate to forty gallons of water — 
can be applied, which will have an immedi- 
ate ertVct. This must also be thoroughly 
watered in should there not be rain within 
twenty-four hours after its application. 

Another excellent tonic for the grass is hen 
manure mixed with earth, equal parts of 
each, and scattered over the grass at the 
rate of a bushel of the mixture for about a 
thousand square feet of surface. This also 
will produce great growth. 

Sometimes, in August, if the lawn looks a 
little worn and badly, it may be given 
another dose of the cottonseed meal, which 
must again be watered in thoroughly. 

4b' 



SOME GREEN THINGS OF THE EARTH 

Along towards the end of June and in July, 
crab grass and orchard grass appear, both of 
which are coarse in quality and rusty in 
color; these grasses seed themselves and 
spread rapidly over large areas. They must 
be dug or pulled up ruthlessly, roots and all 
at once, for if allowed to remain, they would 
entirely ruin a lawn in three years' time. 
The bare places can be re-sodded or sown 
with grass seed, the smaller areas being pref- 
erably sodded. It is only by keeping careful 
watch, and exterminating these horrid grasses 
upon their first appearance, that they may 
be kept out of our lawns. 

In October, the grass should be gone over 
again most carefully and all the weeds 
removed. There will probably be many 
young dandelions, the seeds of which were 
blown in from neighboring fields. These must 
be rooted out. If moss and sorrel appear, 
it is a sure sign that the ground is sour 
and needs lime, which should then be 
spread over the ground broadcast during the 

47 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

winter, one bushel to a thousand feet of 
surface. 

The finest grass of all for lawns is the Ken- 
tucky blue. It thrives anywhere north of 
Georgia upon any soil not acid, and if there 
is acidity it can be corrected either by the 
winter-sown lime or by incorporating the 
proper amount of lime with the soil when 
making the lawn. One understands how this 
grass derives its name, for its color in early 
morning and at sunset, when the light is 
level, is nearly as blue as the foliage of the 
Retinispora squarrosa. This grass gradually 
takes the place of the other grasses sown 
with it, and th^ whole area becomes of one 
color and texture. 

For years I have used, with great success, 
a mixture composed of one-third each to the 
bushel, of Kentucky blue grass, red top and 
Rhode Island bent, and have recommended 
it to many of my friends, who have found it 
most satisfactory. It is particularly thriving 
in a limestone region. Where the soil is 

48 



SOME GREEN THINGS OF THE EARTH 

sandy, a mixture of Kentucky blue grass, 
twenty-five per cent; creeping bent, thirty 
per cent; Rhode Island bent, thirty per cent, 
and fine-leaved fescue, fifteen per cent, is 
recommended by Leonard Barron, an expert 
on the care and making of lawns. The creep- 
ing bent and fine -leaved fescue produce 
quickly-growing, binding grasses that with- 
stand drought. Mr. Barron recommends the 
same mixture for sea-side lawns, substituting 
beach grass for the fine-leaved fescue. Mr. 
Samuel Parsons, the well-known landscape 
architect, told me that there were certain 
shady places in Trinity Churchyard, New 
York, rarely reached by the sun, where it 
had been almost impossible to get grass to 
grow, but that he had succeeded in getting a 
fine turf with wood meadow grass — {Poa nem- 
oralis) , — having first spread over the surface a 
couple of inches of fine humus or leaf -mold. 
This wood meadow grass will thrive in shady 
places where almost no other grass can be 
made to grow. 

49 



^ 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 



An attractive treatment for very shady 
walks is made bj" laying flat, irregular stones 
as stepping-stones, the sides of the rows of 
stones to be quite uneven, and the spaces 
filled with moss, rock fern and other rock 
plants. 

For the last three years there has been 
drought in our part of the country, and hun- 
dreds of people have tramped over my grass 
paths, which are never watered; but the grass 
has resisted the drought wonderfully, and the 
turf remains thick and green. During dry 
weather the grass is allowed to grow rather 
long, being mown only every two weeks or 
so, and in August it is helped along with 
more cottonseed meal or the wood ashes 
and bone meal mixture. 

It is a mistake to mow the lawn too early 
in the spring, as the grass does better during 
the sunnner if allowed to become five or six 
inches high before the first mowing, and after 
October it should not be cut at all. 

Lawns in England are preserved for gener- 
50 



SOME GREEN THINGS OF THE EARTH 

ations by rolling and cutting and keeping 
them free from weeds, with constant addi- 
tions of seed and fertilizer. In this country, 
through carelessness and ignorance, and espe- 
cially through improper preparation of the 
soil in making lawns, it is necessary to "take 
them up," as the gardener expresses it, and 
make them over frequently. The end of 
August, or September 1st, and very early in 
spring, are the best seasons for making a 
lawn. If a new lawn or grass -path is made 
in late August, or early in September, — the 
only time in the autumn when it is safe to 
sow grass seed, — it should be given a slight 
protection of straw, corn-stalks, or old ma- 
nure, before the ground freezes. Then, in the 
spring, when this is raked off, some seed 
should be thinly sown and the whole very 
thoroughly rolled. 

My own experience in making lawns has 
taught me that the grass sown in late sum- 
mer gives a far better result the following 
year than the spring-made lawn. On August 

51 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

26th, last year, seed was sown on a grass-path 
that had never been made but had just 
grown. The ground was uneven and the 
path needed grading. The sod was so good, 
however, that it was a wrench to take it up, 
and I fled from the place during the opera- 
tion. Upon my return, a week after the grass 
seed had been sown, I found a broad, level 
path, already colored with a faint tinge of 
green. Although the drought was extreme, 
enough water was forthcoming to wet the 
ground every other day at sunset. Two or 
three blessed showers, each of an hour's dur- 
ation, saved the grass at critical periods, and, 
on September 19th, less than four weeks after 
sowing, the grass had become so long that it 
was necessary to mow it, the knives of the 
machine being set very high. 

The first week in September, two years 
ago, seed was sown on a grass-walk twenty 
feet wide, which winds for four hundred feet 
up a hill on a gentle curve, and ends at the 
top in a circle fifty feet across. The grass 

52 



SOME GREEN THINGS OF THE EARTH 

was watered daily, and by the end of October 
there was a fair turf on the walk, notwith- 
standing the dry autumn. The walk and the 
circle are bordered by cedar trees, from eight 
to ten feet high, which have been set touch- 
ing each other. Just inside the line of cedar 
trees, a border about four feet wide has been 
made, which is planted with hardy things 
that thrive without other attention than 
keeping the weeds from choking them. In 
"proud pied April," daffodils, jonquils and 
narcissi wind like a golden ribbon through 
the grass at the feet of the dark cedars. 
Many-hued columbines follow the daffodils, 
and, toward the end of May, single Japanese 
peonies unfold their lovely petals ; the peo- 
nies, being both early and late varieties, yield 
their blossoms for three weeks. Later, there 
rise the tall bocconia {Nicotiana sylvestris)^ or 
common tobacco, with its fragrant white 
flowers, and the tasselled *' Lady's Riding 
Whip." Here also the Gaillardia grandiflora 
has found a home. But the cedar walk is 

53 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

seen in its glory in September and October, 
when the great starwort family is in its 
prime; and there are clumps of these flowers 
in each shade from dark purple to pale lilac, 
and white to crimson, with sumach and feath- 
ery white boltonia in among them, lining all 
the sides of the walk. Last autumn, in late 
September, a visitor standing at the lower end 
of this cedar walk and looking up at the green 
pathway enclosed by the cedars, with the 
hardy asters in their many shades, and the 
brilliant sumach, all together giving a wonder- 
ful color effect, exclaimed, *' What a beautiful 
autumn garden!" 

In the circle at the top of the hill, I hope 
some day to build a small, white, circular sum- 
mer-house, in the form of a tiny temple, 
where, in late afternoon, one may sit and look 
over a long valley where the hills rise in every 
direction, and watch the sunset lights and the 
falling twilight; or, in the summer evenings, 
may climb the hill when the full moon clothes 
the earth with matchless beauty, and the 

54 



SOME GREEN THINGS OF THE EARTH 

scent of flowers from the garden below rises 
to perfume the air, and only the myriad 
insect voices of the night break the solemn 
stillness. 

For years to come, however, there will be 
work without end to be done on the cedar 
walk: the grass must be kept free from 
weeds, if a tree dies it must be replaced, and 
there will always be space for more daffodils 
and hardy plants. The cedar walk is also an 
exquisite spot on a winter's day, when the 
color of the trees against the sky and the snow 
is more intense than at any other time, and 
the quiet and shelter afforded by their pro- 
tecting walls of green make of this long walk 
a grateful refuge. 

The sod nursery is a necessary requisite on 
a country place of any size. Sodding of large 
areas is to be avoided, because of the expense 
in buying the sod and laying it, and also 
because the turf is seldom so satisfactory on 
a large surface, when sodded, as if grown from 
seed. Yet the need of sod is a matter of fre- 

55 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

quent occurrence, either to border paths, or 
to set into the lawn in spots where wild 
grasses have been taken out, or to cover the 
place where a discarded flower-bed has been, 
or where the turf has become worn out 
through use. 

For years we have taken the sod needed 
for these purposes from a field called the 
" night pasture lot," where the herd is 
turned at night. The field contains about 
fifteen acres; a slender, cold brook bordered 
with water-cress, the outlet of a spring, winds 
through it, and white-trunked sycamores and 
ancient elms give it great beauty. The field 
has probably never been ploughed, and the 
natural grass is fine and thick. The most 
distant corner of the lot is chosen, and the 
sod is lifted with a prayer to the gods of the 
garden that the farmer-husband may not 
discover the deed; but, alas! his eagle eye 
always lights upon the bare spots before new 
grass is grown. 

Even this fine, close native grass is differ- 
56 



SOME GREEN THINGS OF THE EARTH 

ent in color and texture from the Kentucky 
blue grass used in the garden, and the sodded 
places can be discerned by a close observer. 
At last, therefore, though late in time, a sod 
nursery has been started, quite small to 
begin with, about fifty feet square. The earth 
was prepared in the same manner as if a lawn 
were to be made, was rolled and watered, 
and is kept mown and given the same care as 
the lawns and paths. As sod is removed from 
time to time, fertilizer is raked in and more 
seed sown, and thus the sod nursery will be 
continually renewed. As it takes about two 
years before the sod is suflSciently firm for 
use, whoever is making a new place should 
lose no time in preparing the sod-nursery, 
that sod may be ready when needed. 

When cedar trees are transplanted, if 
heavy, flat stones are placed on the ground 
close around the trunks of the trees and over 
the roots, they will not only aid in holding 
the tree firmly in the ground but also help 

57 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

greatly in retaining the precious moisture. 
On my place, the cedar trees, after being 
transplanted, were formerly tied to stout 
stakes, and kept so tied for at least a year, 
until a friend, whose transplanted cedars 
always live, told me of this use of flat 
stones, which we have since found most 
effective. 

One day, when looking at the wonderful 
cedars this friend had successfully trans- 
planted, I ventured to remark, " You cer- 
tainly do have great luck with cedars.'* He 
gave me a scornful look and answered, 
*'Luck, indeed ! I give the most minute 
attention when digging up the trees to pre- 
serve the roots intact, to make the hole to 
receive the tree large enough, to have the 
earth fine and free from stones, and then 
closely packed in about the roots after the 
tree is set, to have the stones properly placed, 
to keep the tree firm and the roots moist, — 
do you call all this luck.^^ " Of course there 
was no reply whatever from me. 

58 



SOME GREEN THINGS OF THE EARTH 

It may not be generally known that most 
of the box edging sold by dealers in this 
country is imported from Europe, every year, 
in the early spring. Much of it comes from 
France, and none of it seems to be able to 
resist our changeable winter climate. After 
losing large quantities of box edging every 
winter for years, I have discovered a way 
of preserving it through our constantly ris- 
ing and falling temperatures. 

Late in November, the ground over the 
roots receives a good mulch of cow manure, 
then stakes about two feet long are driven 
at alternate intervals of three feet on each 
side of the edging, boards are then placed 
on edge so that they lean against these 
stakes, meeting at the top like an "A." 
The box is thus protected from the sun, 
which, shining upon the frozen foliage, is 
what causes most of it to die. I believe that 
box edging, when thus protected, could be 
grown in localities where it has heretofore 
been thought impossible. 

50 



THE PRACTICAL FLO^^^R GARDEN 

Every four years, about the middle of April, 
it is well to take up all the box edging, trench 
the ground where it is to be reset, and replant 
it. The object of this is to keep the box 
bushy, and prevent it from growing " leggy," 
or showing a wood stem below with a bunch 
of green at the top, as frequently happens. 
It is not well to take up at a time more 
plants than one can replant the same day; 
they should be reset just touching each other, 
and it will be found that there is always a 
considerable number of plants left over, 
which, if the garden is of any size, will be 
welcomed with joy. This process has been 
successfully followed, not far from my own 
place, in a small formal garden, where the box 
is now over seventy -five years old, and 
remains always thick and beautiful. 

The quantity of box edging can be easily 
increased by taking off clippings every year 
except the year it is reset. These clippings, 
made of little branches three to four inches 
long, may be taken in June after the box has 

60 



SOME GREEN THINGS OF THE EARTH 

made its first growth, and either set in rows in 
a bed prepared for them or planted at once 
where they are to grow, as edging surround- 
ing beds or borders. I have done this with 
great success, but it is a waste of time and 
material unless the clippings are thoroughly 
wet at least once a day, and twice a day if 
the weather is very hot or dry. 

If any one has a friend in whose garden old 
box is growing, let her beg clippings from it, 
for it will be more likely to prove hardy than 
the box one buys. 

Every year, in August, the box edging can 
be clipped; and, if it grows where winter cov- 
ering is necessary, it should not be allowed 
to reach more than a foot in height. 

All of us have noticed, at the end of the 
winter, the sad-looking box trees and bushes 
on the steps and windows of the houses on 
the north sides of the streets in New York, 
also on the sides of the avenues where the 
sun shines upon it, by the end of March 
there is rarely a green bush to be seen, where- 

61 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

as on the south side of the streets, where the 
bushes are protected from the sun, they are 
quite Hkely to Hve. 

Sheared plants of American arborvitae 
would answer the purpose of supplying an 
evergreen exterior decoration, and, unless 
neglected or allowed to become too dry or 
root-bound, will live for several years, even 
under the abnormal conditions of life they 
find in the city. 

Upon every place, even those where space 
is limited, a few evergreens should be grown, 
even if only one pine, one hemlock and one 
spruce, with a few of the smaller varieties of 
evergreens. To people who spend any time in 
the late autumn or during the winter in the 
country, the evergreens will give extreme 
delight. Even if the country house is closed 
during all the cold months, the evergreens 
should still be grown, not 'only for the beauty 
they add to the place, — as a house in winter- 
time looks cold and lonely with nothing green 

62 



SOME GREEN THINGS OF THE EARTH 

near it, — ^but also for the value they give to 
deciduous trees and shrubs in spring and 
summer. 

Small, choice evergreens about a place, 
such as the finer arborvitse, retinisporas, and 
other Japanese evergreens, and even the 
native cedars and hemlocks, are wonderfully 
improved by an annual clipping in August 
of each year. This clipping need not be more 
than an inch, or at the most two inches, but 
it has great effect in thickening and beauti- 
fying the foliage. There is no comparison in 
beauty between a tree that has been clipped 
for three successive years and one that has 
never been clipped. This treatment is espe- 
cially necessary to the evergreens in formal 
gardens, for by this means the trees may be 
kept at the height and size desired. Un- 
dipped trees will usually be open and ragged 
looking, while those that have been clipped 
will have very much finer and almost impen- 
etrable foliage. 

The native cedars, of which there are sev- 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

eral varieties, among them one almost as 
blue as tlie Rctinispoi'a squarrosa, can give us 
all the formal effect that we may desire in 
our gardens; these cedars respond to the 
yearly clipping with great thickness of foh- 
age. 

It is very interesting to sit in the garden 
when this operation is being carried on. 
One may have a book or sewing in her 
hands, but it is so fascinating to watch the 
outline of the tree gradually coming out 
sharply from the work of the shears that little 
sewing or reading is done at such times. 

Few^ of the evergreens will live in my soil, 
hemlocks and red cedars beina: the onlv mem- 
bers of the family that really do well. 

The white pine, American arborvitiv and 
the spruce struggle along for a time, protest- 
ing against the conditions of life as they find 
it; but the retinisporas, yews, all the finer 
evergreens, notwithstanding specially pre- 
pared soil and winter covering, do not long 
survive. My garden at Meadowburn is sit- 

64 



SOME GREEN THINGS OF THE EARTH 

uated in the extreme northerly corner of the 
beautiful hill country of northern New Jer- 
sey and New York, directly on the boundary 
line of the two states. The winter tempera- 
ture rises and falls from forty degrees above 
zero to ten, and often twenty degrees below, 
and in summer, during July and August, 
there is usually a long period of dry weather, 
which make conditions that are especially 
hard upon the finer evergreen family. 

The great hemlocks, the symmetrical 
spruces, the solemn pines, which in a natural 
state grow near the white birches so often 
that one might say the pines are married to 
the birches — indeed, all evergreens — inspire 
me with a feeling almost akin to worship, 
possibly a heathen trait which has survived 
generations of civilization, so that it is a great 
trial to me not to be able to grow the ever- 
green family successfully. 

As a compensation, I was able to plan for 
a friend a most lovely little garden which 
she calls her " evergreen garden." It occu- 

65 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

pies the basement area from which an old 
side-hill barn had been removed. The space is 
only about forty -five by sixty feet. Across the 
back of the garden is a wall of rough stone 
about eight feet high, once the back founda- 
tion wall of the barn. In the crevices of the 
stones are planted ferns, ivy is trained 
against them, and in the center, from a sim- 
ple wall fountain, water drips with musical 
sound into a basin below. 

High grass banks rise on the two sides of 
the garden, and the front opens upon a beauti- 
ful lawn, bordered with old trees and sloping 
to the water. Steps of natural rough stone 
lead down from the summit of one of the 
grassy banks into the little garden; around 
three sides, and in several formal beds set 
in turf are planted many varieties of small 
and rare evergreens. All are surrounded with 
box edging, and had one not seen a like col- 
lection of evergreens it would be impossible 
to imagine there could be such variety of 
form and shade from darkest to Hghtest 

66 



SOME GREEN THINGS OF THE EARTH 

green, including the beautiful blue-greens, 
golden yellow and green tipped with yellow. 
Although natives of many countries, all 
the specimens have lived and thriven in the 
sandy soil and moist air of their new home 
by the sea; and the little evergreen garden, 
both summer and winter, is a joy to all who 
behold it. 



67 



RAISING FLOWERS FROM SEED 



CHAPTER III 

RAISING FLOWERS FROM SEED 

^^NE of the greatest pleasures to the gar- 
dener is in raising flowers, both peren- 
nials and annuals, from seed; and especially 
is it interesting to gather and sow the seeds 
saved from her own finest plants. I always 
mark the plants whose seeds I wish to save 
by tying white strings about the stems when 
in full bloom as a sign to all that that blossom 
must not be cut. My maid keeps me supplied 
with a box containing little pieces, about 
eight inches long and an inch wide, of white 
muslin, black cambric, pink cambric and 
turkey-red. I tie black upon the plants that 
are to be cast out in the autumn; scarlet 
upon the very bright red phloxes; a pink and 
white string upon all those of pink and white 
varieties; and a single white piece upon the 

71 



THE PRACTICAL FLOA\'TR GARDEN 

choice white phloxes, and also upon all plants 
whose seeds I wish to save. 

The seeds, after maturing, are gathered 
when dry, put into boxes, each of which is 
carefully labeled, and then sown either in 
August or the following spring. 

The seeds of perennials take longer to 
germinate than those of annuals, and often, 
when one has abandoned all hope of their 
coming up, they will at last appear. One 
year, some platycodons sown in my garden 
in August did not show signs of life until the 
middle of the following May; so one must be 
patient and give Nature her own time. When 
there is much rain in April and May before 
the seeds sown in the seed-beds have germi- 
nated, the smaller varieties are quite apt to 
rot in the ground, and I have lost many a crop 
of Canterbury bells from this cause. Seeds 
more often fail to come up because of too wet 
weather after sowing, or because they have 
been allowed to become too dry, or because 
they have been planted too deep, than 

72 



RAISING FLOWERS FROM SEED 

through any fault of the seedsman's seeds. 
At first, when beginning gardening, I laid 
upon the seedsman all the blame for any fail- 
ure of the seeds to germinate, but now I know 
that such is rarely the case. It is either un- 
favorable weather conditions or carelessness 
on the part of the gardener. If, when the 
little germ is about to break through the en- 
closing husk, it is allowed to become dry for 
twenty -four hours, it will be killed; while, on 
the other hand, too much water at this time 
will also cause it to die. 

Children are generally taught to make 
their gardens with annuals, but it will be very 
interesting to the little ones if taught to plant 
the seeds of the perennials in the spring, to 
watch them growing through the summer, to 
separate them into rows in July and then in 
the autumn to transplant them again to the 
places where they are to grow. On coming 
back the next year, their interest will be fur- 
ther aroused when they find the little plants 
growing sturdily along, and then see them 

73 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

year after year becoming more beautiful, and 
finally giving up their seeds in turn to raise 
other plants for the garden, or to be given 
away to friends. 

Delphinium. After the phlox, so precious 
to us all, it is difficult to say which of the 
hardy perennials is most valuable; but, first 
among them must come the delphinium, or 
larkspur. No other perennial grows so luxu- 
riantly, none is more easy to raise from seed, 
and the great variety of shades of blue, the 
height of the plants and the length of their 
spikes of bloom — many being two feet and 
over in length — unite to make this plant 
unique. The majority of the larkspurs in my 
garden last summer reached the height of six 
feet, and many were, by actual measurement, 
over eight feet high. Then, of course, there 
were also the smaller-growing varieties from 
three to four feet high. 

The number of varieties of delphinium is 
infinite. Kelway, of Langport, Somerset, 

74 



RAISING FLOWERS FROM SEED 

England, the greatest specialist in these 
plants, lists two hundred and thirty -four vari- 
eties, and asks for some as high as 10s. lOd. 
apiece, and £l8 for a choice set of two dozen. 
He also asks five shillings a packet for the 
seeds. These prices are far above those asked 
by growers in the United States, many of 
whom have obtained their seeds from Kelway 
in the first instance, and the Gold Medal 
hybrids sold in this country give a sufficient 
variety. Of the delphiniums, the dark blue 
splashed with purple, the light blue with 
lavender whose individual double flowers are 
as large as the blossom of a stock, the light 
blue flushed with pink, the pale blue with a 
white center, the turquoise and the sky-blue 
are among the most beautiful. 

On October 10th, from a third crop of blos- 
soms, I counted fourteen varieties; and in the 
first week in September, 1909, I was able to 
take the first prize at the county fair with 
flowers from plants raised from seed sown in 
the open ground, just one year before, and 

75 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

grown entirely out-of-doors. The professional 
gardeners at the fair asked my men many 
questions as to how we had raised such fine 
flowers. Afterward, when I inquired if they 
had told everything we did, they replied, "No, 
or they might beat us next year." 

The seeds of delphinium may be sown in 
the open as soon as the ground is warm in 
spring, by the end of July the little plants 
may be set out six inches apart and moved 
again to their final dwelling-place October 1st, 
or early the following spring. I have met 
with the greatest success, however, in sowing 
seeds saved from particularly beautiful lark- 
spurs in the empty seed-bed about the end of 
August, covering the crowns of the plants 
with coal -ashes in autumn, and strewing a 
little straw or coarse hay over them for the 
first winter. The following year, when the 
seed-beds are needed for the annuals, the 
little plants are transplanted in rows one foot 
apart into a nursery bed, where they bloom 
during the first summer. By October 1st 

76 




I 

* 



M^^ 



•^ V 

^ 



-■ - 'Mf 



^ 







A CLUMP OF DELPHINUMS 



RAISING FLOWERS FROM SEED 

their permanent home is prepared and there 
they are carefully removed. 

If some of the delphiniums are to be placed 
in the back of a border, they are planted two 
feet apart, as in the borders we want the 
growth to be close; but, if they are to be 
grown in rows, these rows are made three feet 
apart and trenched one foot deep. In the 
bottom of the trench about seven inches of 
cow manure is placed, and the trench is filled 
high with rich earth because it will always 
settle; the plants, then one year old, are set 
out three feet apart in the trench, and in the 
late autumn some coal-ashes are sifted over 
them. In two years' time rows so planted are 
a solid mass of color when the larkspurs are 
blooming. 

In the spring, when the plants are well up, 
a large trowelful of bone meal is dug about 
each plant, and when they are three feet in 
height they are all staked. This is absolutely 
necessary because of the winds, as the stalks 
of the delphinium are so tender that one 

77 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

heavy blow would make havoc among them; 
so when they are about three feet in height 
we always stake them. 

August 1st a little nitrate of soda is dug 
about them and carefully watered in; they 
then receive a mulch of clippings of lawn grass 
or leaves from the year before and are again 
watered freely, and the more they are watered 
the more they will respond with bloom. 

If a stalk is cut down as soon as the flowers 
are withered, the plant will immediately begin 
to send up another, and in this way one is able 
to have a constant succession of bloom. I 
always have at least three crops of flowers 
from the delphinium, but only the stalks of 
the first crop will reach any great height. 

The delphiniums do not care to be moved 
after they are eighteen months old. It is pos- 
sible, of cburse, but the plants do not thrive 
as well when moved after they are so old, 
and it is better to allow them to remain 
wherever they may be than to take the risk 
of moving such large plants. There are many 

78 



RAISING FLOWERS FROM SEED 

ten-year-old larskpurs in my garden which send 
up from eighteen to twenty spikes of bloom at 
the same time. Last summer a number bore 
over thirty stalks at the first blooming. 

The coal-ashes sifted over the crowns of 
the delphinium in the spring and fall are ab- 
solutely necessary to preserve them from their 
fatal enemy, the white grub. One of my friends 
said: "I do not care for delphiniums because 
I do not like to see the place where they grow 
look like a cinder-bed." But the cinder effect 
will be avoided if the ashes are finely sifted. 

The roots of the delphiniums should not be 
allowed to come in contact with manure. I 
believe that manure, if allowed to touch the 
roots, is as fatal to the delphinium as it is to 
the lily bulb. 

Pyreihrum is another perennial that has 
been greatly improved of late years. Many 
varieties are listed by growers in this country, 
and Kelway advertises two hundred and eigh- 
teen varieties. They come in all shades, from 

79 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

palest pink to dark crimson, also white, lav- 
ender and purple. They are single-, double- 
and anemone-flowered. They bloom from the 
end of May through June, when they should 
be cut down. If they are then fed with bone 
meal, they will bloom again in September. 
The seeds can be sown and the plants grown 
just as are the larkspurs, for they germinate 
readily and are equally hardy. They are also 
subject to attacks by the same white grub 
which is the enemy of the larkspur, and 
should have the coal-ashes sprinkled over 
them, as is done for the larkspurs. 

Starwort. Another great perennial family 
is the starwort, or hardy aster, or Michaelmas 
daisy, as they are sometimes called in their 
natural state. These are the wild asters which 
clothe the hillsides, roadsides, and fence-rows 
with beauty in the autumn. But the hybrid- 
izer has wrought his magic upon them, and a 
hundred and twenty-nine varieties are now 
listed by Xelway. 

80 



RAISING FLOWERS FROM SEED 

In color the starworts range from white 
through shades of palest lavender and ame- 
thyst to deep purple, and through shades of 
pale pink to dark rose. They are easily raised 
from seed sown in the spring and, if trans- 
planted in the autumn where they are to live, 
will bloom the following year. They grow 
from two to four feet in height and, if raised 
in both early and late varieties, will bloom 
from the end of July until well into Novem- 
ber. Their natural place is in masses in the 
shrubberies, planted among evergreens, or in 
large, mixed, herbaceous borders. 

Anchusa Italica. A perennial not yet very 
much grown, but which when once known will 
always find a place in the garden, is the 
Anchusa Italica, or Italian Alkanet, Dropmore 
variety. Two-year-old plants in my garden 
were seven feet high in June, and were con- 
tinually covered for six weeks with small blue 
flowers formed in clusters eighteen inches 
long. The seeds may be sown in August as 

81 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

soon as they are dry, and in late autumn the 
little plants should be covered with some 
stable litter. 

The Anchusa Italica also seeds itself, and by 
October 1st a number of young plants will 
always be growing about their parent. 

Marguerite carnations are so valuable 
that every one should give a little space to 
these flowers. The seeds can be sown as soon 
as the ground is warm in the spring, and in 
June the little plants can be separated into 
rows about a foot apart and will begin to 
bloom August 1st. They require a rich soil 
and plenty of water. They come in every color 
and shade, and their blossoms are at least 
two and a haH inches in diameter; the stems 
are long and they flower until ice forms. 
People, on seeing a bowl of them in the house 
in mid-summer, have often remarked: "Why 
there are hot-house carnations !" 

Late in the autumn, the tops should be cut 
down and the plants covered over with stable 

82 



RAISING FLOWERS FROM SEED 

litter. They will then bloom again the second 
year. Occasionally they will bloom a third 
year, but for the third year they cannot be 
relied upon, so if one would have them in the 
garden, a sowing of seed should be made 
every other year. 

Pentstemons are another group of perennials 
which come in a number of colors, — white, 
pink, crimson, scarlet, purple and magenta. 
The different varieties bloom from June 
through September and can be grown from 
seed sown in the spring; the roots may also 
be separated, as is done with the phloxes. A 
little bone meal given them in May of the 
second year will stimulate their growth. They 
are all hardy excepting one variety. Sensation, 
the freest bloomer of all, which should be 
lifted and placed in a coldframe for the winter. 

Salvia azurea grandiflora is another flower 
lately brought forward by growers. Each 
stalk ends in a large, loose cluster of pale blue 

83 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

flowers which lasts for five or six weeks. The 
plant grows about three feet high; it can be 
raised from seed sown at the same time as 
other perennials, and is grateful for the addi- 
tion of sand to the soil, which need be only 
that of the well-made border. Though a 
native of the Rocky mountains, it needs a win- 
ter protection of stable litter or leaves, and 
the young plants will be the better for spend- 
ing the first winter in a coldframe. The Salvia 
azurea may also be increased by dividing 
large roots. Since knowing this plant, I do 
not feel that I could be quite happy with- 
out it. 

Hyacinthus candicans is a flower not suffi- 
ciently grown. It has great merits of hardi- 
ness, and in decorative qualities. It is also 
inexpensive when bought in quantity and is 
easily raised from seed. It grows from a bulb, 
and is most effective when planted in clumps 
of from six to a dozen or more together. It 
blooms in August, throwing up a great spike 

84 



RAISING FLOWERS FROM SEED 

of white blossoms at least four feet in height, 
and looks like a magnificent hyacinth. 

Monkshood. In every garden there should 
be a corner for the monkshood, as it blooms 
at a time when there are only a few flowers 
left to us. I have often gathered it after 
thick ice had formed. The plants remain in 
blossom on the stalk a long time, and in the 
house will keep fresh in water for ten days. 
One should have not only the dark blue vari- 
ety, but also the new Wilsoni recently im- 
ported from China. The roots may be sepa- 
rated, but they are easily grown from seed, 
like other perennials, and need only good 
soil of the borders. 

Peony. It is not generally known how 
simple it is to grow both the iris and peonies 
from seed. This is especially interesting when 
we have a beautiful variety of which we do not 
know the name, and are therefore unable to 
order more like it. By the process of raising 

85 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

the plants from seed we may increase our 
stock indefinitely. We mark the plants whose 
seeds we wish to save, gather the peony seed 
when it is ripe, which should be about the end 
of August, and sow it at once in drills in rich 
soil. The places where the peony seeds are 
sown should be marked by stakes because the 
seeds will not germinate until the following 
May. The little plants must be kept free from 
weeds and watered, and the second year sep- 
arated a foot or so apart in rows; the third 
year the peonies will generally bloom. 

7m. The iris seeds should be gathered 
when ripe and sown the following April in 
drills like pea seed, then transplanted when 
three or four inches high; if they have had 
rich soil and all the water they need, they will 
frequently blossom the second summer. Last 
year I raised about three hundred plants in 
this manner. 

There are so many annuals that it is diffi- 
cult to know which to speak about; however, 

86 



RAISING FLOWERS FROM SEED 

a few are chosen because of their luxuriant 
growth or for the color they give us. 

The first of these is the Amaranthus Abys- 
sinicus. This plant has a very Oriental-Ara- 
bian-Nights sounding name, and rivals Jack's 
bean-stalk in growth, for it reaches a height 
of seven or eight feet in a short time. The 
stalk and branches are dark crimson in color, 
and every branch terminates with a cluster of 
dark crimson tassels a foot in length; it has a 
very large light green leaf. 

One of these plants appeared one summer 
in my seed-beds. I did not know what it 
was. It grew and grew, and finally one of the 
gardeners, a man along in life, who was 
trained by my grandmother's gardener, pro- 
nounced it the ^'lady's riding whip," a name 
w^hich had probably been given it from the 
long tassel effect, and at last I was able to 
trace it in the catalogues. It is very effective 
when grown either in the back of an herba- 
ceous border or in a shrubbery. 



87 



THE PRACTICAL FLO\YER GARDEN 

Nicotian a, both Sylvestris, Affiiiis and the 
hybrid varieties \yhieh yield larger flowers 
than the ordinary tobacco plant and range 
through many colors, are very simply raised 
from seed, and, as they bloom continuously, 
are a great addition to our gardens. 

A charming, old-time annual is the kockiay 
or summer cypress. It seeds itself, so that if 
there is even one plant in the garden seed 
need never be bought. AYlien the little plants 
are a couple of inches in height they should 
be transplanted to a foot apart. They grow 
two feet high, are naturally symmetrical in 
growth, have pale green, feathery foliage, and 
make a cliarming little hedge about the seed- 
bed or the nursery. In autumn the foliage 
turns dark crimson. 

Salpiglossis is a valuable annual, bloom- 
ing so luxuriantly that one wonders that any 
plant can produce so many blossoms. The 
flowers are white splotched with crimson, or 

88 



RAISING FLOWERS FROM SEED 

pink flushed with white, lilac and purple. It 
only grows about a foot in height, but gives a 
constant amount of color. 

Schizanthus, or butterfly-flower, is an 
annual well worth growing. It comes in many 
colors and is continually covered with flowers, 
white, pink and lilac. When three or more 
are grown in a large pot, it makes a hand- 
some decoration for the terrace. 

The old-fashioned Phlox Drummondi has 
been greatly improved and is now a very effec- 
tive annual, not only for color in the garden, 
but also as a household decoration. The 
Phlox Drummondi does very well when sown 
directly where it is to bloom. 

All of these annuals need only to be sown 
in rows in the seed-bed as soon as the ground 
is warm in the spring, watered late in the day, 
and when the plants are about three inches 
high transplanted where it is intended that 
they shall bloom. 

89 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

There are a few annuals which should be 
sown in the hotbed by March 1st if we wish 
them to come into bloom early. They may 
also be sown in the open ground, but in that 
case their flowers are very late and only 
reach their perfection with the coming of cold 
weather. The most important of these are stocks 
and snapdragons. If, when the little plants 
are set out in the open ground in May, they 
show a tendency to become stringy and form 
only a few buds at the end of the stalls, they 
should promptly be cut down. One need not be 
alarmed at this process because almost in- 
stantly the plant will send up a new and sturdy 
growth. This weakness of the plants results 
because either they were grown too thickly in 
the hotbed or did not receive sufficient air. 

Heliotrope and ageratum are two other an- 
nuals necessary in the garden because of their 
color and prolific flowering. Ageratum is of 
all blue flowers the freest bloomer. It is also 
easy to raise and every seed seems to germ- 

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A tangled corner 



RAISING FLOWERS FROM SEED 

inate. But the heliotrope is more difficult to 
start, and unless the gardener is experienced 
he should procure slips, and start them in 
February in fine, sharp sand, transferring the 
little plants when well rooted to thumb-pots, 
and again to three-inch pots early in April. 
The heliotrope requires more heat than the 
hotbeds yield, and the slips must be grown 
either in a greenhouse or in a window of a 
rather warm living-room. 

Verbenas germinate readily, and seeds sown 
in the hotbeds in March will be fine plants by 
the end of May, when it is time to set them 
out. 

All the single dahlias, too, are easily raised 
from seed sown in the hotbeds about March 
1st, and when so started the period of bloom 
is greatly increased. By the early start thus 
obtained the dahlias raised from seed are 
particularly fine in form and color. Dormant 
tubers of double dahlias can be started about 
April 1st in a coldframe. 

91 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

Then there are the petunias. Rosy Morn, 
Giant Ruffled White, and all the other ruffled 
varieties. It is a simple matter to raise them 
from seed; many varieties yield a plant from 
every seed in the ordinary packet, while of 
other varieties from twenty -five to seventy -five 
plants are grown from a single packet of seed. 

In the hotbeds, over the horse manure 
which provides the heat necessary for for- 
cing, we use a soil composed of old sods, 
leaf-mold, very fine old, cow manure, sand 
and some garden soil. This preparation is also 
used in the flats and pots in which the young 
plants are grown; the same soil is used in the 
coldframes. 

If fine, dry sea sand is thinly sifted over 
the seeds when planted and they are then 
gently pressed down by the hand, they will 
retain the moisture better; the young plants 
seem also less apt to "damp off" than when 
covered with soil. 

The durable quality of concrete and the 
92 



RAISING FLOWERS FROM SEED 

protection it affords from low temperatures 
as well as from moles and field-mice warrant 
its use for coldframes and hotbeds. The con- 
struction is simple, and two men who under- 
stand mixing concrete and constructing the 
frames can excavate the earth and make half 
a dozen frames in a week. 

The so-called " Sunlight Sash," a recently 
patented sash for hotbeds and coldframes, 
which consists of double sash with an air 
space of three-quarters of an inch between 
the layers of glass, seems to be an improve- 
ment over the single glass. It permits the 
sash to remain uncovered and open to the 
sun and light in all but very severe weather. 
Because of the increase of warmth and the 
amount of light received, there seems to be 
less danger from mildew, the plants grow 
larger and stronger and many flowers can be 
kept blooming all winter, and lettuce and 
radishes can more easily be raised in succes- 
sive crops during the cold months, than in 
the old way. 

98 



RAISING TREES FROM SEED 



CHAPTER IV 

RAISING TREES FROM SEED 

TTNTIL recent years, people in this coun- 
try have wholly failed to appreciate 
the importance of tree and forest culture. 
Our natural forests have been abundant, tim- 
ber and forest products have been plentiful 
and cheap, and we have gone on oblivious to 
our future needs, recklessly wasting or negli- 
gently unconcerned about our timber and 
forest resources. We have been, both indi- 
vidually and as a people, wholly indifferent 
to the priceless value of our woodlands and 
forests as equalizers of temperature, or as 
conservators of our springs, brooks and water 
sources, or even as mere wood and lumber. 

The lumberman has cut wastefuUy, with no 
other object than the price of his product in 
the open market, and fires have everywhere 

97 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

followed the lumberman's brush, rubbish and 
waste, with the final result of leaving many of 
our former woodlands and forests treeless 
wastes of blackened stumps and ground. 

Now there has come a change of heart, and 
we hear constantly of conservation of natural 
resources, of forest planting and protection, 
of the protection of woodlands and trees, — 
and the call comes none too soon for the 
future welfare of all concerned. 

In response to this call, the forestry division 
of the United States Department of Agricul- 
ture has done, and is doing, a great work both 
in planting and preserving the forests and in 
instructing people through pamphlets and 
circulars issued by it how to re-forest and 
protect their woodlands. Its plans are wise 
and far-reaching, but its energies are limited 
by the appropriations allowed by Congress. 

Every intelligent person should cooperate 
with the government, and endeavor to do 
something every year toward educating the 
people to a greater appreciation of the 

98 



RAISING TREES FROM SEED 

importance of replanting and preserving 
forests and woodlands. Arbor Day is a step 
forward, but all children should be taught to 
know the trees and to love them. This is 
quite possible even in cities because of the 
fine parks where many varieties of trees are 
growing. In spring and summer, classes might 
be held in the parks after school hours, which 
would be of invaluable benefit in acquainting 
the children with the different species of trees, 
their several characteristics and uses, the im- 
portance of preserving them, as well as the 
manner of planting a tree whenever there is 
space and opportunity. 

For the last three years there has been 
serious drought in many sections and during 
this time in my own part of the country, where 
usually ground-water is abundant, the springs 
and streams have rarely attained their levels. 
This increasing condition of persistent drought 
should be a warning of the disaster which 
may overtake us if we do not learn in time 
to renew and preserve our woodlands and 

99 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

forests, which are so essential for the proper 
conservation of our water supplies. 

I often regret that I did not long ago, 
during all the years spent in raising other 
things, begin also to raise trees from seeds. 
Sturdy groves of timber might now be 
growing from seeds sown twenty-five years 
ago. 

All those who own suburban or country 
property should keep it well planted and pre- 
served as a duty to future generations who 
are to inherit the land. 

All young married people beginning life in 
the country should start at once to raise trees 
if their place is of any extent. By middle life, 
when grandchildren come, the trees will not 
only be splendid specimens, but will be monu- 
ments to the ancestral forethought and love 
of beauty; and because they were planted by 
some forbear will be regarded with increased 
tenderness and devotion as long as their great 
branches spread themselves in air. 

It is not generally understood that the coni- 
100 



RAISING TREES FROM SEED 

fers, both the white and red pine, the Scotch 
pine and the native hemlocks, can easily be 
raised from seed, which, though a slow process, 
is one most interesting, as well as quite simple, 
and well worth trying where the estate is of 
any size. Cones may be gathered in Septem- 
ber and spread upon a sheet in a light room of 
a tool house or other dry place where they will 
dry; the seeds will fall out from the cones and 
can then be collected and stored through 
the winter in boxes, or the seeds may be 
bought in the spring from any reliable seeds- 
man. The seed-bed should be made in the 
same way as are the seed-beds for flowers: it 
should be raised about four inches above the 
surface of the ground, to secure perfect drain- 
age; a good size is four by six feet. At the 
four corners of the bed, stout stakes, eighteen 
inches high, should be driven into the ground, 
and a board a foot in width running around 
the bed nailed to the stakes. When the ground 
is warm, about the time that we would plant 
beans in the vegetable garden, the ground 

101 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

should be thoroughly moistened to the depth 
of several inches, and the seed sown thickly 
in drills about four inches apart; then the 
seed should be pressed well into the soil with 
the flat surface of the hoe and about an eighth 
of an inch of soil sprinkled over the whole 
bed. Over the bed and resting upon the tops 
of the four stakes a screen made of lath 
should be laid, to protect the young seedlings 
from the too strong sun of the summer. In 
natural conditions where the conifers seed 
themselves, they are protected by the pine 
needles and by the leaves, the underbrush 
and the tall trees above them; hence, when 
raising them in the nurserj^ we should give 
them as nearly as possible the conditions that 
they would naturally have. 

The first year, the little plants need no other 
care than to be kept free from weeds and not 
allowed to become too dry. After very hea^'y 
rains the lath screen may be hfted for a day 
to enable the bed to dry out. In about three 
weeks after sowing the seed the little plants 

102 



RAISING TREES FROM SEED 

begin to appear above the earth, and at the 
end of the first summer should be about two 
and one-half inches high. This seems a far 
cry to the pine tree towering fifty feet in the 
air, but we do not plant such trees for our- 
selves, but for our children; still a pine tree 
should be fifty feet high in less than fifty 
years. 

Two ounces of seed will sow a bed four by 
six feet, and allowing for seeds that do not 
germinate and for young plants that die in 
the first four years of life (they will rarely 
die after four years), should raise five hun- 
dred trees; and one pound of seed, after mak- 
ing a large allowance for those that do not 
germinate and for trees that do not live, 
should raise four thousand trees. 

With the first frost in the autumn, the lath 
screen may be removed from the seed-bed 
which, toward the end of November of the 
first year, may then be covered with a spread 
of fallen leaves, and the whole protected by a 
single thickness of burlap nailed over the en- 

103 



THE PRACTICAL FLO\\^R GARDEN 

tire bed where the young plants are growing. 
This is to give them for the first year the 
necessary winter protection, as in the forest 
they would have the natural protection of the 
fallen leaves and pine needles. 

During the second summer the little plants 
remain in the seed-bed and need no care 
except to be kept free from weeds and occa- 
sionally watered if they become too dry. They 
do not need the lath screen nor any further 
covering in the second winter. 

The third year they should be transplanted; 
trenches of good, rich earth should be made 
in the nursery a foot apart, and the little 
trees very carefully lifted from the seed-bed 
with a spade, put first into a pail of hquid 
mud, so that the roots do not become dry, 
and then set out about eight inches apart in 
rows in the nursery. Here, again, they need 
no care except to be kept free from weeds 
and occasionally watered. 

The fourth summer, they may either be 
transplanted to their permanent place or be 

104 




ENTRANCE TO THE CEDAR WALK 



RAISING TREES FROM SEED 

reset to twelve or fourteen inches apart in 
the nursery. 

The object of this frequent transplanting 
is to cause the young trees to make fibrous 
root-growth. If we dig up a little pine tree or 
hemlock in the woods, it will be found to have 
a tap-root and two or three side roots; where- 
as, the nursery-grown tree is composed of a 
mass of fibrous roots, and these fibrous roots 
enable the tree to stand the transplanting 
and to make a quick growth, so that our four- 
year-old tree grown in the nursery has great 
vitality of root and is almost sure to live. 

The United States Forestry Department 
recommends the planting of pine trees at a 
distance of six feet apart in all directions. 
This is, of course, for those who are growing 
pines for lumber; but on a private estate, 
where one does not grow them with any 
intention of cutting them down in a few 
years, to sell, they would naturally be placed 
with an idea of beauty in the landscape. 

Pine trees will grow anywhere, on almost 
105 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

any kind of soil except in low places; one 
never sees pine trees growing in damp mead- 
ows or wet places. 

If one wishes to make a hedge of white pine 
the ground should be trenched in the same 
way as it is for any other hedge, and the 
young plants then set out, two feet apart. 
They will grow rapidly, and in a short time 
will form a hedge five or six feet in height and 
three or four feet wide at the base, and be an 
object of the greatest beauty. It needs trim- 
ming but once a year, and in color and foliage 
makes a hedge surpassing in beauty that of 
any other evergreen. Such hedges of white 
pine are seen in perfection at Cornish, N. H., 
where one particularly fine surrounds the 
place of the late Mr. St. Gaudens. 

One of the few hard -wood trees which has 
not yet, in our part of the country, been 
attacked by any enemy is the black walnut. 
These trees are rapid in growth, and very 
graceful in form; the foliage is sufficiently 
light to permit of the grass growing under the 

106 



RAISING TREES FROM SEED 

trees well up to the trunk and the shape of 
the trunk and the limbs is so fine in the winter- 
time that there is no tree better worth plant- 
ing about any estate where it will grow than 
the black walnut. The lumber and wood are 
in great demand and, raised in quantities, and 
cut judiciously, are a valuable asset for the 
farmer. 

Some fifteen years ago a young seedling 
black walnut appeared in one of my seed-beds. 
The nut had probably been dropped there by 
some squirrel. It grew nearly two feet the 
first year, and as a matter of curiosity we 
allowed the sapling to remain, but it grew so 
rapidly that in a couple of years it became 
necessary to remove it from the seed-bed. 
The tree is now about twenty inches in cir- 
cumference and has reached a height of over 
thirty feet, which is doing well for fifteen 
years' growth. 

If, along in October, one gathers a bag of 
walnuts, removes the green shells, and, going 
about the place, makes here and there a hole 

107 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

in the ground, some two or three inches deep, 
with a pointed stick or crowbar, drops in a 
nut, and presses the soil down with his foot, 
the next year he will have a vigorous shoot; 
the following year the tree will begin to grow, 
and in an astonishingly short time whoever 
has followed this practice will be rewarded by 
a fine lot of young black walnut trees upon 
his place. One could easily gather up and 
plant a bagful of nuts in a forenoon. Perhaps 
the best places for planting are along fence- 
rows, which afford the tree in its first tender 
years some protection from drought and 
severe winters, as well as as from interfer- 
ence by cattle. 

It is almost impossible to transplant a field- 
grown black walnut and get it to live, so 
that one gets the best results by planting the 
nuts where the tree is to remain. 

Another symmetrical and beautiful tree, 
also of rapid growth and free from attacks of 
borers and insects, is the ash. Two seedling 
ash trees, also found in my seed-bed, were 

108 



RAISING TREES FROM SEED 

transplanted when a year old, and eighteen 
inches high, and after fifteen years' growth 
the trees were about as large as the black 
walnut seedling, but a year ago, as they were 
crowding more valuable trees, they had to be 
cut down. 

The linden tree and the sycamore are also 
healthy, of rapid growth, and are not diffi- 
cult to raise from seed. 

The maple needs no brief to tell of its 
merits, but should not be planted near house 
or garden because of its dense shade. 

In tracts of woodland, under maples, about 
the parent sweet gum tree, near sycamores, 
ashes, birches, lindens, many wild seedlings will 
be found, and these, if carefully lifted in the 
early spring, transplanted to the nursery and 
there cultivated for a year or two, will make 
fine, strong trees. The finest seedlings are to 
be found on low ground or along the banks 
of streams, where there is moisture and pro- 
tection of undergrowth from too strong sun. 
We have but to study natural conditions and 

109 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

try to reproduce or to improve upon them 
to be successful in raising our trees from seeds. 

The Catalpa speciosa also seeds itself readily, 
and, wherever a parent tree grows near a 
shrubbery or spot where the grass is not 
mown, there one can find every year a few 
young trees ready to be transplanted early in 
the spring. No tree is more decorative than the 
catalpa with its beautiful leaves and panicles 
of orchid-like flowers. It also lives to great age, 
and its twisted, gnarled trunks and branches 
rival in beauty those of the old apple tree. 

Nature sows her seeds when ripened, and 
the seeds of maple, birch and elm ripen and 
fall to the ground between April and June; 
they should then be gathered and planted 
without delay as they retain their vitahty 
for a short time only — perhaps six weeks. 
They germinate soon after planting. 

The germ of life in the seeds of all nut- 
bearing trees survives but a season, and 
hence the nuts should be planted in the au- 
tumn as soon as ripe and dry. 

110 



RAISING TREES FROM SEED 

Willows are best grown from cuttings made 
early in Mareh or April, from eight to twelve 
inches long. They grow so rapidly that they 
may be planted where they are to grow. 
Straight branches of willow, five or six feet 
high, if cut in March and planted in a moist 
place, will generally grow, but must, of course, 
be staked. They need only to be thrust about 
a foot into the ground. 

The yellow poplar is easily grown from cut- 
tings a foot in length, taken in March or 
April, and planted four inches deep and 
about the same distance apart, in a shallow 
trench of good soil. All cuttings of trees 
should be kept moist and shaded from the 
sun until well rooted, and generally treated 
the same as the cuttings from shrubs. Early 
the following spring they may be transplanted 
to the places where they are to grow. 

Lombardy poplars send up shoots from the 
roots, which may be severed from the root 
by a sharp spade, and planted early in the 
spring where they are to grow. They should 

111 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

be kept staked for a couple of years. Every 
year we separate these shoots from the pop- 
lar trees in the garden, sometimes keeping 
them in rows for a year, and again planting 
them at once in permanent places. By degrees 
we are planting these poplars wherever there 
is space, just inside the stone walls that 
border the roadway, almost too unfrequented 
to be called a highway, that runs through 
the farm. Of more than a hundred of these 
little shoots thus planted not one has died, 
although several have been broken by cattle, 
which eat the poplar leaves with avidity. 

The deciduous -tree seeds that germinate 
most easily are maple, catalpa, ash, linden, 
birch, oak, walnut, and hickory. Of the seeds 
of the tuhp tree but a small proportion — from 
five to ten per cent — germinate; it is a tree 
difficult to raise from seed. 

The seed-bed for seeds of deciduous trees 
should be prepared in the same manner as 
for evergreens. The seeds should be sown in 
rows from eight to twelve inches apart; Hght 

112 



RAISING TREES FROM SEED 

seeds such as those of birch, elm, catalpa and 
maples, should be spaced about two inches 
apart in the row so that the seedlings will 
not require thinning. A day when there is no 
wind should be chosen for sowing these seeds, 
or many will be blown away and the sower's 
patience be sorely tried. After sowing cover 
the seeds lightly about twice their own depth, 
pressing down the earth firmly with the back 
of the hoe; sprinkle the bed, and scatter over 
it a covering of any kind of chaff which will 
preserve the moisture in the soil for some time ; 
when watering is necessary, the chaff serves 
as a filter, and also as a preventive against 
washing the little seeds out of the soil. A 
very fine spray should always be used for 
watering tree seeds. When the seedlings 
appear the chaff should be removed. The 
bed must be kept carefully weeded and gently 
cultivated between the rows, particularly in 
dry weather, and during the first winter it 
should be protected with a covering of leaves 
about a foot in depth. 

113 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

During the first year in the seed-bed, ash 
seedhngs should grow from eight to ten inches; 
elm, eight to ten; black locust, eight to twenty; 
locust, eight to twelve; oak, eight to twelve; 
birch, four to six; maple, ten to twelve; 
catalpa, eighteen to twenty inches. 

Early spring is the best time for trans- 
planting the seedlings, which should be first 
lifted into a pail of thin mud, the roots well 
covered with the mud, and then planted care- 
fully, the roots being given ample room; the 
earth should be firmly packed about them, 
and a mulch of old manure or leaves laid 
around them and, if possible, watered from 
time to time. 

Maples, catalpas and locusts make such 
rapid growth that after a year in the seed- 
bed they may be transplanted to the place 
where they are to grow. Other varieties are 
benefited by being first transplanted to rows 
in the nursery for a year, and there cul- 
tivated by the hoe before being finally trans- 
planted. All the seeds of nut trees, acorns, 

114 



RAISING TREES FROM SEED 

walnuts and hickories, should be planted in the 
autumn, preferably where they are to grow. 

The ravages of the chestnut borer have 
made it undesirable to raise this beautiful 
tree at present. 

Seeds of locusts, sycamores and catalpas 
should be gathered when ripe, then mixed 
with dry sand and stored in a cool, dry cellar 
until spring. Locust seeds, before planting, 
should be placed in a vessel of very hot 
water, stirred for a few minutes, and then 
allowed to soak in the water (which of course 
will become cold) for three days; then taken 
out and planted at once, not being allowed to 
become dry. 

It would be of the greatest benefit to the 
country if the owners of land everywhere 
would plant trees intelligently and exten- 
sively. By this means, the abandoned farm 
could be made productive, shelter and wind- 
breaks provided for buildings and pastures, 
covert for game and song birds and protec- 
tion for growing crops. The necessary wood 

115 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

for fuel, building repairs, and fence-making, 
could also be produced cheaply, and the whole 
country made more beautiful. It is not diffi- 
cult to grow the trees needed for this plant- 
ing, and the sowing of the seeds, their trans- 
planting and winter protection are quite sim- 
ilar to the care necessary in raising perennials 
from seed, infinitely more interesting, and 
require only a small corner of the vegetable 
garden for seed-beds and nursery. 

A little seed-bed, four feet by six feet, and 
a couple of rows twenty feet long for a nur- 
sery where the seedlings could be transplanted 
to live for a year or two, is all the space re- 
quired to raise many trees — enough at least to 
fully plant a place of ten acres, as well as to 
furnish an occupation and a delightful source 
of interest to all the members of a family. 

May the present lively interest in tree 
planting and forest culture continue and in- 
crease, until everywhere our waste lands and 
denuded hills are again covered with growing 
timber with all its beauty of form and coloring. 

116 



FERTILIZERS AND HOW TO APPLY 

THEM, TOGETHER WITH SOME 

PLANT REMEDIES 



CHAPTER V 

FERTILIZERS AND HOW TO APPLY THEM, 
TOGETHER WITH SOME PLANT REMEDIES 

'PORMERLY, the feeding of infants was a 
comparatively simple matter. They were 
given milk, and, after the first few months, a 
cereal; but today the nourishment of young 
children has become serious and intricate, 
and the food of each child is prepared accord- 
ing to a special prescription, moderated thus 
and so from " milk from the top of the bot- 
tle ;" one cannot wonder if the hair of grand- 
mothers left in charge of their children's 
children becomes prematurely white in con- 
sequence. 

In former times, the gardener used only 
manure, or if he were quite advanced in his 
craft, some bone meal, as stimulants for his 
flowers. Fertilizers, today, are as many in 

119 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

number as the prescriptions for infants' foods, 
and, in the seedsmen's catalogues, many dif- 
ferent varieties are Hsted for the various 
fruits, for vegetables, and for the flower gar- 
den. Not all are necessary, but some knowl- 
edge of the different requirements of the va- 
rious flowers, of the food best suited to each 
plant with which it will achieve the best 
results, is one of the most interesting studies 
of the modern gardener. 

Among our friends, there are some who can- 
not eat red meats, uncooked fruits, salads, or 
other foods. The fact is accepted without 
comment, and the hostess provides such arti- 
cles of diet for her guests as are best suited to 
their conditions. Why, therefore, should not 
the plants that reward us with such luxuri- 
ant bloom for the care bestowed upon them 
receive each the nourishment upon which it 
thrives the best.^^ Chief and best of all for 
grass, vegetable and flower gardens, is cow 
manure which should be at least five or six 
months old before it is used; fresh and finely 

120 



FERTILIZERS AND PLANT REMEDIES 

ground bone meal is invaluable for roses, 
young trees, and many flowers; poudrette, a 
preparation of native guano, sold by Dreer of 
Philadelphia, is a clean, odorless fertilizer, 
rich in ammonia, and excellent for many per- 
ennials especially the phlox. 

Soot, which may be bought by the bushel 
or taken from the chimneys, is the best possi- 
ble nutriment for bay trees and box, and, 
when mixed with equal portions of sulphur 
and dusted upon plants in an incipient stage 
of mildew, will cause its immediate arrest. 

Bon Arbor, a commercial fertilizer recently 
placed upon the market, has a wonderful 
effect upon dahlias, heliotrope, petunias and 
many annuals. This is an expensive fertil- 
izer, costing thirty dollars a hundred pounds, 
but a little goes a long way, as one pound is 
dissolved in thirty gallons of water, and the 
dose consists of half a pint of the solution 
poured slowly on the ground directly over the 
roots of the plants. The earth should not be 
wet for twenty-four hours before nor for 

121 



THE PRACTICAL FLOA^rER GARDEN 

twenty-four hours after the tonic is appHed. 
Its results amply reward one both for the 
time consumed in administering and for the 
expense. The application may be repeated 
in ten days, and afterward every three weeks, 
if advisable. 

Sheep manure, either in liquid form or 
used dry, is an excellent fertihzer for peren- 
nials. 

Then, there is nitrate of soda, which does 
not stimulate root-growth, but is valuable in 
producing rapid increase in bloom and tends 
to give more brilliant coloring to the blos- 
soms. This product should be regarded, how- 
ever, as a quickening tonic, for use somewhat 
as nitro-glycerine is prescribed by the med- 
ical profession. 

No fertihzer will produce such quick results 
as nitrate of soda if properly used, but, if 
used too freely, probably no other fertilizer 
can damage the plants so quickly. Nitrate of 
soda should be used as sparingly as one 
sprinkles sugar upon berries or cereal. In the 

122 



FERTILIZERS AND PLANT REMEDIES 

rose garden, my men make a little trench a 
few inches from the stalk, around each rose- 
bush or tree, and about two inches deep, 
scatter in it the nitrate of soda, and cover 
with earth; when the whole garden has been 
thus treated, we turn on the water, which 
then gently washes the tonic to the roots of 
the roses. This has been done the past two 
years about May 10th, and again the middle 
of July, with excellent results. 

Snapdragons which have been started in a 
hotbed in March, and set out in the garden in 
mid-May, will begin to bloom early in June, 
and if the soil in which they are grown is rich 
and some fine bone meal be dug about them 
when first set out, and if also they receive a 
dose of liquid cow manure every two weeks, 
they will continue to send up stalwart stalks 
of flowers into late fall, and until quite thick 
ice has formed. 

I know an excellent woman gardener whose 
greatest specialty is the successful raising of 
stocks and snapdragons, and whose plants 

123 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

bloom continuously with strong, tall stalks 
and flowers of wonderful size and color. Last 
year, in mid-October, she shifted to a small 
greenhouse snapdragons and stocks that had 
bloomed in the garden for five months, when, 
the tops having been cut down somewhat, 
they soon began to bloom again. The middle 
of March, she sent me a great box of them. 
Allowing for a month's time to recuperate 
after being transplanted to the greenhouse, 
these two annuals bloomed continuously for 
nine months. 

This friend is often accused of having 
special and secret processes for raising her 
snapdragons, but, although she and her gar- 
dener look very wise, they disclaim any treat- 
ment other than that described, with the addi- 
tion of plenty of water. 

The Poudrett'e can be dug about phlox and 
hollyhocks soon after they start to grow, and 
a second dose given the phlox, when the heads 
of their first blossoms have been cut off, will 
assist the plants greatly in forming their sec- 

124 




A BIT OF PINK BORDER 



FERTILIZERS AND PLANT REMEDIES 

ond crop. But there is really nothing better 
than cow manure for the phlox, and, also, if 
used in limited quantities, for hollyhocks. 

It is not generally known that the Richardia 
alba, or white calla lily, which is a native of 
Egypt and flourishes in the rich alluvial soil 
on the banks of the Nile, also growing suc- 
cessfully in California in irrigated fields, can 
be grown with excellent effect in one's garden, 
if started by March 1st in the hotbeds in very 
rich soil and given a daily soaking. 

The plants may be set out when the ground 
is warm, in May, but the earth of the bed 
where they are to grow should be made rich 
with cow manure. The beds must always be 
well watered once a day, and in dry weather, 
twice. About half a trowelful of bone meal 
dug about each plant when first set out will 
greatly assist them. 

Last summer, I planted sixty calla lilies in 
a large bed, set white snapdragons between 
them, and edged the bed with giant white 
fringed petunias. The effect was all that 

125 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

could be desired until the middle of July, 
when the rich soil and abundant watering 
(for even when in the drought water had 
become the most precious of fluids, this bed 
was kept wet) caused the snapdragons and 
petunias to vie with each other in such ram- 
pant growth that the calla lilies were almost 
crowded out of existence, so that it would 
seem better to plant the calla hhes in a mass 
by themselves. 

Bon Arbor applied to petunias, heliotropes, 
verbenas, asters, stocks and dahlias, produces 
marvelous results; the blossoms are unusual 
in size and brilliant in color and it seems as if 
one could almost see the plants grow. 

Last year, the seeds of the twentieth Cen- 
tury dahlias were sown in the hotbeds in 
March. They germinated quickly and grew 
so rapidly that they crowded against the 
glass, which made it necessary to transplant 
them to the garden quite early in May. 
They were set in ordinary garden soil, not 
very rich, and at once treated with appHca- 

126 




Decorative effect of a potted plant 



FERTILIZERS AND PLANT REMEDIES 

tions of Bon Arbor, with the result that the 
first blossom made its appearance May 25th, 
an unprecedented time for dahlias to bloom. 
All the other varieties of dahlias were simi- 
larly treated with Bon Arbor and between the 
applications watered copiously, being kept as 
moist as the Japanese Iris, resulting in great 
luxuriance of bloom with perfection of form 
and color. When, however, drought set in, 
and the sun burned daily through its course, 
and the southwest wind ceased not to blow, 
evaporating immediately the scanty supply 
of water given the plants, their bloom was 
greatly diminished, and we became convinced 
that, in addition to this particular fertilizer 
which seemed to agree with it, the dahlias 
need continuously an ample supply of water. 
A farmer's wife, who took a first prize at 
the county fair for a collection of dahlias, 
told me that she poured all her wash-water on 
the ground over their roots. The potash from 
the soap as well as the water may be valu- 
able for dahhas. 

127 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

The verbenas responded to the tonic of 
Bon Arbor by remaining a sheet of color 
from June until late in October, and the 
giant ruffled petunias were indeed giants of 
their kind. 

Heliotrope and stocks, as well as the asters, 
were most grateful for their meals of Bon 
Arbor, the heliotrope yielding clusters the 
largest and darkest in color we have ever 
raised. They seemed to be unaffected by 
the drought, and continued to bloom until 
killed by the frost. 

Stocks will benefit by a small amount of 
bone meal given them when first set out and 
again at the end of two months; and if the 
asters, when ready to bud, receive, in addi- 
tion to the Bon Arbor, a little wood -ashes, 
together with a very little nitrate of soda, 
and have, besides, rich soil and plenty of 
water, they will produce larger flowers and 
more abundantly. 

All the campanula family, especially the 
Campanula mediuniy the Canterbury bell, 

128 



GARDEN 

T'. (he tonic of 

inainin 

;tunias 

rope and :. .:::> iiie asters. 



\-h 



darkest iii colo 
seemed to be 
continued 



mall amouu of 
t nd 
c.a if he 
1 in ac li- 

on f_.- .v-vod-asl. s, 

flower:: 

da fanaily, especially tl 
mterbury beJ 



FERTILIZERS AND PLANT REMEDIES 

like a soil rich with cow manure, and if given 
a trowelful of bone meal about the end of 
April will produce wonderful plants, aston- 
ishing one in June by the amount of blos- 
soms which each plant will bear. The fox- 
gloves, while preferring a soil in which leaf- 
mold predominates, do finely in the borders 
and are also glad of some bone meal in April. 
This tonic is also essential for the roses, 
and should be given them in the spring and 
again in midsummer. 

Sheep manure administered to the Japa- 
nese anemones, either dry, when a trowelful 
may be dug about the plants every month 
after growth begins in the spring, or applied 
in liquid form at three-weeks intervals, results 
in marvelous growth, two-year-old plants 
sending up many stallvs of their beautiful 
blossoms. 

If sheep manure be fed in the same manner 
to the salpiglossis, the effect is equally satis- 
factory. 

Constant iteration of the need of fertilizer 
129 



THE PRACTICAL FI.OA^^ER GARDEN 

becomes tiresome, but herbaceous plants and 
flowering shrubs are great feeders, and, as 
they must be closely planted to secure good 
effect, the soil soon becomes exliausted, and 
the spring feeding and entire remaking of 
herbaceous borders every three or four years 
is a necessity if one would have the finest 
plants. 

Shortly after my first book was published, 
a somewhat elderly man friend whose mind 
is delightfully cultivated, whose sole recrea- 
tion is the study of English literature, and 
who knows no more about gardening than 
about the construction of flying-machines, 
remarked that it was painful to make such a 
criticism, but it seemed to him somewhat 
shocking that a nice woman (the nice prob- 
ably meaning refined) should so often refer 
to manures. 

Now, as may be imagined, this was far 
more painful for me to hear than for him to 
say. Meeting, shortly after, a woman who 
was an excellent and enthusiastic gardener, 

130 



FERTILIZERS AND PLANT REMEDIES 

whose " sensibility " even Jane Austen might 
have admired, I asked her honest opinion 
upon the subject, and was told in reply that 
in her experience, also, all success in garden- 
ing depended upon the preparation and fer- 
tilization of the soil, and that without man- 
ures nothing could be done; she further told 
me that in answer to her husband's inquiry 
one day, what he should give her for a birth- 
day present, she had answered, " Two car- 
loads of manure for the garden." 

After the animal manures, decomposed 
vegetable matter, which the expert now 
refers to as humus, is the most valuable con- 
stituent of the soil. This material is within 
the reach of every one who has even a small 
place. By gathering and saving carefully all 
the autumn leaves, turning them several 
times during the year until they are decom- 
posed, you will have them in condition to 
return to the soil in the form of humus or 
leaf -mold, and give to the plants the nitro- 
gen so necessary to their growth. 

131 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

Two years ago I attacked an herbaceous 
border that had not been made over for five 
years, only top-fertihzed during that time. 
The border is a hundred and sixty feet long 
and about twelve feet wide, with an irregular 
edge. Many varieties of perennials grew in it 
whose colors had become mixed, and it was 
far from satisfactory. First, all the plants 
were lifted and the bed dug out, then 
twelve wagonloads of cow manure, two hun- 
dred pounds of bone meal, a quantity of leaf- 
mold, with a good sprinkling of both lime and 
wood-ashes, were put in and thoroughly 
incorporated with the soil; the border was 
then planted with choice varieties of phlox, 
massed in shades carefully blended of cherry, 
pink, and white; at intervals, groups of the 
taller varieties were brought toward the 
front, to prevent a rigid line; occasional 
groups of foxgloves were also planted, and 
the whole border was edged with sweet Wil- 
liams in the same colors, which are taken out 
when they have finished blooming and fol- 

132 '* 



FERTILIZERS AND PLANT REMEDIES 

lowed by asters in shades of pink. The bor- 
der contains about eight hundred plants of 
phlox, about five hundred foxgloves, and 
innumerable tulips, both early and late, care- 
fully set in sand, planted wherever there was 
room for a bulb. For four months this border 
is continuously effective in color, ranging from 
cherry to white. 

Very fine horn shavings, dissolved in the 
proportion of a peck to a kerosene-oil barrel 
of water, and stirred well every day for three 
days, and then a pint of this solution poured 
upon the earth every two weeks, for cannas, 
dracsenas and all foliage plants, has wonder- 
ful effect. This fertilizer is much used in 
Germany. Vaughn, of New York, is the only 
seedsman who catalogues it. 

Scotch soot, applied twice a month to foh- 
age plants, a little being dug lightly into the 
soil, increases the brilliancy of their color. 

If one could only invent some treatment 
or some fertilizer that would prolong the 
period of bloom of the peonies, or produce a 

133 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

second crop of the blossoms of these most 
beautiful flowers, what a benefactor to gar- 
deners that person would be! I have often 
thought of addressing a petition to the great 
Burbank upon the subject. 

During the last five years the peonies in 
my garden have been fed about August 15th, 
at the same time with and similarly to aspar- 
agus, with cow manure and bone meal, and 
the wonderful increase in the size of the plants 
and in the number of blooms leads me to 
believe that the blossom-bearing buds of 
peonies, like those of asparagus, form in 
August or September for the flowers of the 
following year. 

By this treatment, with the addition of a 
winter mulch of cow manure which is lightly 
forked into the ground as soon as frost is out 
in the spring, and about half a trowelful of 
nitrate of soda sprinkled over the crown of 
each plant and immediately watered in, the 
asparagus is made to yield abundantly from 
about the first of May to the middle of June, 

134 



FERTILIZERS AND PLANT REMEDIES 

when it rests for a month. Then we again 
have asparagus for three weeks, and cease 
cutting it while still bearing freely, for fear 
of injuring the roots. 

The number of plant diseases increases so 
rapidly that the harried gardener no sooner 
has conquered one trouble than another 
appears, and the spray-machine is in con- 
stant use in the fight against insect destroy- 
ers and microbe diseases. Vigilance which 
enables one to detect an enemy in the very 
beginning, and constant care, generally win 
the fight against everything but the terrible 
drought, where one is powerless. Even though 
the water-supply remains suflScient, the con- 
tinued dryness of the atmosphere, dewless 
nights, constant winds, with the sun burning 
down upon the lawns and gardens, destroy 
their vitality and check their growth. In dry 
weather, constant stirring of the soil to the 
depth of a couple of inches to maintain a 
loose mulch, or a mulch of leaves, lawn clip- 

135 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

pings or old manure, are our greatest hope. 
I often feel as if all battles against plant dis- 
eases, insects and microbes might be won 
without serious disaster, and happiness might 
reign always in our gardens, if only we 
could have abundant rains; but to see the 
plants which started bravely into life in the 
spring begin to wither and starve from 
drought when midsummer luxuriance should 
be reached, is almost unbearable for those 
who love their flowers. 

A new disease has very recently appeared 
in our gardens which I have not heard called 
by name. It is a blight which attacks the 
larkspurs, particularly the taller varieties, 
causes the leaves first to turn black, then to 
shrivel and fall off, and blights and blackens 
the blossom. Kelway of England, the largest 
grower of delphiniums, says that he has never 
known any disease to attack these plants in 
his nursery, and, until the middle of last June, 
my garden has been equally immune. Fear- 
ing that the trouble might prove contagious, 

136 



FERTILIZERS AND PLANT REMEDIES 

I took the drastic method of digging up all 
the plants attacked — between forty and fifty, 
which was a large proportion of the nearly 
six hundred growing in the garden — and 
burned them. Alas! a number of these were 
from eight to ten years old, and the largest, 
oldest and most vigorous plants in the garden, 
so that it was a heart-rending operation 
both to me and to the men. All the remain- 
ing plants were immediately sprayed with 
Bordeaux mixture, which spraying was 
repeated every month. This coming spring, 
when the plants first start, they will again be 
well sprayed and the ground over the roots 
also thoroughly wet with the Bordeaux, and 
this treatment will be given them twice after- 
ward at intervals of three weeks, in the hope 
that the devastating trouble will thus be con- 
quered. Several of the veronicas were afflicted 
in the same way, and were given the same 
prescription. 

From many gardens comes a complaint of 
mildew affecting the climbing roses, some of 

137 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

the hybrid teas, and the phlox, more particu- 
larly the white and light varieties. No one 
knows why mildew should appear upon 
plants grown in full sun, when it is a disease 
supposed to appear only in shady places or 
after a considerable period of very warm, 
damp weather. Mildew increases with mush- 
room-like rapidity. An instance of this oc- 
curred in the great phlox border in my garden 
late last June. I had been away for two days 
only. All of this time the men had been 
employed at the other end of the place, and 
no one had made a daily tour, with the keen 
lookout for trouble that is as necessary in 
the flower garden as in the nursery of young 
children, and upon returning home late in 
the afternoon I made, as is customary after 
an absence, a careful tour of the place, when 
to my amazement and horror I found that 
several clumps, of probably fifty each, of my 
loveliest variety of pale pink phlox were so 
covered with mildew as to resemble giant 
plants of dusty miller. Early the next morn- 

138 



FERTILIZERS AND PLANT REMEDIES 

ing they were all dug up, the tops cut down 
to the roots, the plants then set in a row in 
the vegetable garden, and a mixture of equal 
parts of soot and flowers of sulphur powdered 
over them. All the other phlox in the garden, 
were first sprinkled and then treated with 
the soot and sulphur — and rather ghastly 
they looked. 

The sick plants that had been transferred 
suffered from being removed in full summer, 
and a number of them died, but the survi- 
vors came up without a trace of mildew. 

Setting rows of plants in the vegetable gar- 
den has become so constant an occurrence 
that my men now often ask " Where .f^" and 
say there is no more room, or that soon the 
vegetable garden will be nothing but a flower 
garden. 

The Garden Club of Philadelphia, an asso- 
ciation of enthusiastic and earnest women 
gardeners, each of whom is her own head 
gardener, have, by attention, experiment and 
observation, made many valuable discover- 

139 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

ies upon the treatment of special plants, fer- 
tilizers and insecticides. 

From them I learned of a death-dealing 
dose for the omnipresent rose bug which has 
reduced this pest in my own garden to a few 
survivors easily destroyed by hand. 

MIXTURE FOR ROSE BUGS 

3 pints of any kind of sweet milk 
3 pints of kerosene 
1 quart of water 

Mix in something that can be shaken, — a 
demijohn is excellent, — shake for a few min- 
utes, add one-half pint of the mixture to one 
gallon of water, stir well, then spray this 
diluted mixture on the rose bushes, also wet 
the ground thoroughly over the roots, and 
apply it gently with the fingers to the rose 
buds. It should be used every ten days from 
May 1 to the middle of June, and as the larvae 
of the rose bug are in the ground, this treat- 
ment seems to prevent them from coming to 
life, and relieves us from one of our greatest 
trials. The same treatment may be given 

140 



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FERTILIZERS AND PLANT REMEDIES 

to the white Japanese iris, as the rose bugs 
dehght also to feed upon this choice flower. 

The most efficient remedy for the thrip, 
the small yellow-white fly, which settles upon 
the under side of the leaves of the rose bushes, 
and so devours them that soon only the skel- 
eton of a leaf remains, is spraying with a solu- 
tion of whale-oil soap; two applications a 
week apart will destroy them, but the odor 
from the whale oil is unpleasant for twenty- 
four hours, particularly so at the sunset hour; 
it is a good plan, therefore, to be absent when 
the whale-oil soap is used. 

The rose caterpillar is hatched from the 
egg of a moth, rolls itself in the green leaves 
of the bushes, and seems to be unaffected by 
any poison. As this creature has a voracious 
appetite and devours both the young rose 
buds and the green leaves, he must be gotten 
rid of in some way. But, until now, hand- 
picking seems to be the only effective way. 

A solution of London purple, one-half 
pound to fifty gallons of water, sprayed upon 

141 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

the aster plants when the buds begin to 
form, seems to be a preventive for the aster 
beetle, another of the garden's deadly ene- 
mies. Slug shot and lime, one pound of each, 
well mixed, are also efficacious weapons in 
the fight against this black wretch. 

It would seem as if no possible success 
with flowers could be w^orth all the trouble of 
fertilizing and spraying and careful watching 
that is necessary; but, believe me, much of 
the interest lies in making the experiment 
and the effort, and if you put up a good fight 
you generally win out in the end and have 
the great satisfaction of succeeding. 

The flower gardener cannot become lazy. 
She must not think that by merely planting 
zinnias, nasturtiums and poppies, she has 
done the whole duty of a gardener, but she 
must be willing to study the soil in order to 
find out what her plants like to eat; she must 
learn about insecticides in order to protect 
her flowers from the hungry creatures wait- 
ing to destroy them; she must find which 

142 



FERTILIZERS AND PLANT REMEDIES 

plants live best together; she must be willing 
to take up her borders and make them over 
every three or four years; she must think 
ahead and plan one year for the next; she 
should also have patience and be willing to 
endeavor next year to succeed with that 
which has been a failure this year; she must 
also be a person of much courage, because 
there will be years when the rose bugs, the 
black beetle and the white grub will appear 
in swarms and do their worst; when the rust 
will destroy the hollyhocks, mildew whiten 
her choice plants, and drought finish almost 
everything else. There will come times when 
she will declare that she will plough up the 
whole garden and plant potatoes and go off 
and spend the summer in Europe ; but, on the 
other hand, there will be years when her sum- 
mer will be one of joy, for her peonies and 
iris will be magnificent, the many-shaded 
larkspur towering and luxuriant, the rose 
bugs absent in some distant state, and her 
song will be one of continual triumph. 

143 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

Such a time of delight was mine last spring. 
It was in May, and a party of choice spirits 
gathered at the old farmhouse on a Friday, to 
spend Sunday. They arrived in the midst of 
a cold rainstorm, — one of those storms which 
so often comes in May, and which the farmer 
calls the blossom storm. Gathering about 
the great log fire at nightfall, we wondered 
how the tender growing things without could 
survive, and one of my friends, a man whose 
name is known and whose books are read 
wherever people care for art and literature, said 
to me over the tea-cups "Have you not a gar- 
den or something .f^" and after acknowledging 
something of a garden, I, in turn, inquired if 
he cared for gardening. He answered, " No; 
there is generally an angel in the pool, and 
there are always gravel walks, and I hate to 
walk upon gravel walks, and besides, I have 
a garden in my imagination where there are 
only white flowers surrounded with green 
setting." When I went to bed that night I 
leaned out of the window to see what was the 

144 



FERTILIZERS AND PLANT REMEDIES 

prospect of fair weather for the next day; 
the rain was coming down steadily, the wind 
howled up the valley, the great locusts tower- 
ing over the roof tossed their arms about in 
distress, and fair weather seemed far distant. 
But in the early morning the robins were 
singing their May song, the sunshine was 
brilliant, and all without seemed to be a new 
created world. I could scarcely wait until 
the grass had dried off a little to invite my 
friend to come out with me to the garden. 
Standing at the entrance we looked down 
upon the hemlock hedges tipped with fresh 
green; upon all the evergreens clothed in their 
spring garments; the box edging was covered 
with new growth; the turf was thick and fine 
and, surrounded by this green setting, there 
were certainly two thousand blossoms of the 
German iris, Silver King, silvery white as its 
name indicates, — and my friend was able to 
see with his eyes the garden of his imagina- 
tion. Such a moment repays one for many 
seasons of battle with insects and bugs, with 

145 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

the rust that destroyeth in the noonday and 
with the burning drought. 

My own garden has been struggled with 
and worked over and developed gradually 
for many years, perhaps a quarter of a cen- 
tury (a quarter of a century seems much 
longer than twenty -five years); but I some- 
times wish that it had all been planned out 
at the beginning by some landscape architect, 
although it might then lack in natural charm. 

Unless one has had great experience, a 
country place should be planned by an expert. 
One may choose a person whose work is sat- 
isfactory elsewhere, and who is likely to lend 
an ear to the pleas of the owner; but when 
once planned and planted, if a woman cares 
at all about gardens and flowers, other than 
American Beauty roses with three feet of 
stem and moon-faced chrysanthemums, she 
should maintain the position of being her own 
head gardener. Her garden will thus become 
an expression of her own individuality and be 
quite different from those of her neighbors. 

146 



i 







FERTILIZERS AND PLANT REMEDIES 

She should herself decide what she wishes to 
have planted, and where and how. If a gar- 
den is in charge of a professional gardener, 
he will generally do that which is being done 
by the other men of his kind in the neigh- 
borhood, so that the garden will be like any 
one of a dozen. By taking this personal 
interest in her garden the owner's health will 
be greatly benefited, she will maintain her 
activity and, above all, there will be an added 
interest in life. The more time and thought 
we spend upon our gardens and our plants, 
the dearer they will become, and because of 
this constant contact with nature, though 
our years may be many, we cannot grow old 
because of the eternal Spring that reigns in 
our hearts. 

"A garden is a lovesome thing, God wot. 
Rose plot, fringed pool, ferned grot; 
The veriest school of peace. 
And yet the fool contends that God is not. 
Not God in gardens when the eve is cool ! 
Nay, but I have a sign; 
'Tis very sure God walks in mine." 



147 



A LITTLE ABOUT TERRACES AND 
THEIR TREATMENT 



CHAPTER VI 

A LITTLE ABOUT TERRACES AND THEIR 
TREATMENT 

^T^HE castles and houses of landed gentry 
in Europe were often built, in earliest 
times, with terraces, which served as a view- 
point, a place to walk and take the air, and 
for the beginnings of gardening which were 
carried on in some sheltered corner of the 
terrace between the castle, or house, and the 
surrounding walls. Here the monks in the 
monastery first grew herbs and simples, a few 
flowers, and the earliest cultivated vegetables 
and fruits. Here, in the unsettled times of 
the Middle Ages, the women of the house- 
hold took their recreation, and found a refuge 
from the eternal tapestry web or singing to 
the lute, and also tended the herbs with which 
cooling draughts and healing dressings were 

151 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

prepared for their lords when wounded in 
the fray. 

The terrace, but a step or two below the 
house, is an open space inviting one to out- 
of-doors, commanding a view either across 
the distant country, or of smooth lawns with 
pond or stream beyond, or looking directly 
down upon the formal flower garden, and is a 
delightful adjunct to the modern country 
houses, however modest, recently built in 
the Northern and Middle States. The ad- 
vantages of the terrace have become so con- 
vincing that the piazza, formerly of almost 
universal construction in the country, is 
being gradually dispensed with. 

An objection sometimes made against the 
terrace is its lack of protection from sun and 
wind and weather. But awnings may be 
readily and simply put up, and if the terrace 
surrounds either two sides, or a portion of two 
sides, of the house, there will always be some 
place free from too strong sun or wind. For 
pavement, brick, red tile, marble or flat field- 

152 



TERRACES AND THEIR TREATMENT 

stones of irregular shape are used, according 
to the style of the house. 

Our own house, built before the War of the 
Revolution, which has only small porches at 
the entrances, has a simple terrace laid in old 
brick in herring-bone pattern. Circular open- 
ings surround the bases of the locust trees 
which grow near the house, and in these 
spaces the earth is covered with periwinkle — 
blue in April and May with its starry flowers, 
and green-leaved all the year. The evergreen 
vine, Euonymus radicans, is planted around 
the trees, and, clinging to the beautiful rough 
bark of the locusts, climbs far up among their 
branches. It is entirely hardy in the severest 
winters, and in March bravely sends forth 
tender new leaves to herald the spring. Both 
the lovely periwinkle and the euonymus are a 
delight during every month of the year. 

Should the ground fall away rapidly from 
the house, there must, of necessity, be either 
a bank of turf or a retaining-wall of stone, 
brick or otherwise. The bank of green turf is, 

153 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

however, except where the house is elaborate 
or Italian in style, more attractive, partic- 
ularly if the house is not immediately adja- 
cent to the garden, but is surrounded only by 
green lawn and shrubbery. When an Italian 
garden is spread before a house of French or 
Italian architecture, the terrace must natu- 
rally be adorned with formal balustrades and 
whatever effects may be in keeping with house 
and garden of such design. Formerly, many 
flowers were grown close about our own old 
house, but for years they have been banished 
to a distance, except those grown in pots for 
terrace decoration, and only ferns, rhododen- 
drons, small evergreens, trees and vines grow 
near. This may be considered severe treat- 
ment, but flowers are grown in such abundance 
elsewhere that the change is an improvement. 
A few flowering plants, especially grown in 
pots for decoration of terraces or verandas, 
add greatly to their attraction, and are per- 
haps a survival of the use of the terrace in 
early times as a garden spot. 

154 



TERRACES AND THEIR TREATMENT 

Those who have traveled in Spain and Italy 
will remember the effective use made by 
gardeners in those countries, of potted plants 
upon terraces, verandas, on doorsteps, and in 
courtyards, and also that only the red earthen 
flower-pot, or the simple, dull green-glazed 
Italian or Spanish pottery are used, — elabo- 
rate pots and jars which detract from the 
beauty of the flowering plants being avoided. 

A few plants well suited for terrace or 
veranda where there is partial shade are: the 
old-fashioned fuchsias which bloom contin- 
ually; gloxinias; any of the lilies which may 
be carefully lifted from the garden when about 
three inches high, potted, two or more in a 
pot according to size, and the pots sunk to 
the brim in the ground, to be brought forward 
on the terrace as they come into bloom, and 
asters and salvias which may be treated in 
the same way. A decoration of several pots 
of white ostrich-plume asters followed by pink 
ones is always admired. Schizanthus or but- 
terfly flower, and the new yellow or pink 

155 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

celosia remain beautiful for several weeks and 
are especially suited for pot culture and adorn- 
ment of terraces. 

All those whose houses are surrounded by 
terraces will find great interest in growing a 
succession of plants in pots for decoration; 
haK a dozen pots of a kind would be suffi- 
cient unless the terrace is very large: and 
even if there is no flower garden, but just a 
little corner where the plants can be raised 
and nursed into perfection to bring forward, 
they will give an infinite amount of pleasure. 

The tall-growing Campanula pijramidolis is 
especially beautiful. Large, strong plants, one 
year old in May, if potted and fed often 
with hquid manure, bone meal and a tiny bit 
of nitrate of soda, will be six feet high by the 
the second week in August, and remain cover- 
ed with either white or blue blossoms for a 
month. This plant can be seen in its greatest 
perfection at the Church of St. Anne de 
Beaupre on the St. La'WTence River, below 
Quebec, and is used there, growing in pots in 

156 



TERRACES AND THEIR TREATMENT 

great quantities, both white and pale blue, as 
a decoration for the altar and chancel, and 
surpasses any perennial plant I have ever 
seen. These plants should be grown in partial 
shade, to secure the best success. They do not 
bloom until from fifteen to seventeen months 
after the seed has been sown in the open 
ground, and sometimes go over until the 
third summer before blooming; but no trouble 
is too great to grow this grand campanula 
successfully. 

Pink and white Canterbury Bells (Cam- 
fanula medium) which remain for several 
weeks in bloom, and great plants of cosmos, 
lifted from the garden and set in tubs, make 
beautiful decorations. 

Where people are disinclined to raise flow- 
ering plants for the terrace, small retinis- 
poras, in the different colorings, will be quite 
satisfactory when used with bay or box trees, 
to give height. 

Bay and box trees are expensive, but long- 
lived if given moderate care, and the white 

157 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

and pink oleanders which flower continually 
are also well worth a place on the terrace or 
in the garden. These three varieties need 
only to be kept clean, nourished, given enough 
water, not allowed to freeze, and occasionally 
re- tubbed. 

When the tubs containing bay and box 
trees and oleanders are brought forth from 
their winter quarters, they require immediate 
attention. They should first be watered with 
a strong force to cleanse them thoroughly, and 
then looked over for scale, which should be 
carefully scraped away; if the bay trees have 
accumulated any black mildew, it can be 
scrubbed off with a nail-brush, which, al- 
though a long and slow process if the trees are 
large, is the only one which is effective. The 
trees should then be sprayed with a strong 
solution of Ivory soap, some of the earth 
removed from the top of the tubs, and some 
soot, which is the best fertilizer for bay and 
box trees, dug in about the roots, and the tub 
then filled up with cow manure. The tubs 

158 



TERRACES AND THEIR TREATMENT 

may then be painted, when the trees are ready 
for the season's duty. 

Second only to the bay tree in formal 
decoration is English ivy grown in tubs and 
trained over wire frames, pyramidal in form, 
which may be had from three to seven feet or 
more in height. The ivy covers the frame 
completely and compactly. Tubs of ivy can 
be placed to advantage at the top of a flight 
of steps, along the edge of a terrace, by a 
doorway, at the entrance to a garden, and 
have the merit of not being very expensive. 
Unless one is sure that the ivy is hardy, it 
should join the bay and box trees in their 
winter quarters. 

Hardy ivy, or Euonymus radicans, trained 
to grow as a flat border about eighteen inches 
in width along the edge of the terrace that is 
upheld by a bank of turf, gives a formal finish 
that is satisfactory. Box edging a foot in 
height can also be used in this way. 

The tubs containing American arborvitse or 
different varieties of cedars, both of which 

159 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

should be sheared yearly, make an attractive 
decoration of an unenclosed or open terrace, 
add great charm to the house in winter, and 
by their greenery are a constant source of joy 
to those who live near them. 

Entirely different from the terrace with 
artificial flooring of tile or brick surrounded 
by balustrades and decorated with plants and 
small trees gTowing in vases or tubs, is a 
smooth grass terrace quite fifty feet wide, 
upon which open the small-paned windows of 
an old house. A low retaining wall of great 
rough stones against which espaliers of peach 
and pear are trained separates it from a 
gently sloping field. The only decorations of 
the terrace are bushes of box which have 
survived the storms of perhaps a hundred 
winters, and keep guard in the outer corners. 
LTpon one side of the terrace opens the house; 
upon two other sides the ground falls away 
into smooth pastures where sheep nibble the 
sweet grasses. The fourth side is partly en- 
closed by a stone wall about ten feet high, 

160 



TERRACES AND THEIR TREATMENT 

covered with many varieties of climbing 
roses, having a wide opening leading into an 
orchard of beautiful twisted old apple trees 
which are cared for and preserved by all the 
science of the modern tree doctor. 

This grass terrace is dignified and natural 
and the only appropriate surrounding for the 
old house before which it lies. The whole — 
house, terrace and orchard make a wonder- 
ful spot for a country home, commanding a 
view over rolling wooded country where 
one can never weary of watching the many 
phases of cloud and sunshine, the sheeted 
rain blowing down the valley in spring and 
fall, the snow flurry drifting across the sunlit 
landscape in winter, the somberness of russet 
autumn, the gaiety of delicate green April 
and the transformation wrought by the full 
October moon or the misty starlight of mid- 
summer. 



161 



THE WILD GARDEN 



CHAPTER VII 

THE WILD GARDEN 

Xj^OR years I have been writing of a type 
of garden familiar to me through long 
experience. Now, however, I am about to 
describe briefly another form of plant culture 
and gardening of which I have had little per- 
sonal experience, but the possibilities of which 
I have observed for many years, during which 
I have watched the beginning, progress and 
development of a great natural or wild garden. 
The term "wild garden" may be as descrip- 
tive of the garden made from native material 
without cultivation of the soil, and as expres- 
sive of native resources, as the terms English 
garden or Itahan garden, where the yews of 
England and cypress of Italy give at once the 
dominant note peculiar to the country where 
each is situated. 

165 



THE PRACTICAL FLO^^'ER GARDEN 

Within the boundaries of every country 
place of any extent there will always be found 
the border of a woodland, a bit of marshy 
ground through which winds a tiny stream 
or a ridge of rocks, which await only the 
proper treatment of the possibilities they 
offer to become most exquisite corners upouj 
the place. 

This wild gardening presents infinite possi- 
biHties. It deals with all the native blooming 
plants indigenous to the locality, or that will 
grow there naturally under its conditions of 
soil and climate without cultivation, from 
the tiniest flowers of meadow, glade and rock- 
ledge, the innumerable growths of the bog, 
the ferns from the woods and borders of 
streams, to the towering weeds of late sum- 
mer, and the many native shrubs. 

The run-down and neglected farms that are 
scattered throughout our eastern states 
afford the opportunity for the practical 
development of this wild gardening be- 
cause of their natural conditions and the 

16G 



THE WILD GARDEN 

infinite variety of plant life growing there 
naturally. Upon a few acres of land may often 
be found all the charm of uplands, of open 
fields sloping swiftly to the wooded valley, of 
meadows through which a stream or creek 
makes its way, and of rocky ledges and great 
boulders. 

The land that once was cultivated is now 
overrun with many beautiful varieties of 
trees and shrubbery growing naturally. Here, 
perhaps, a group of long-neglected apple trees; 
there, upon a hillside, many of the native 
shrubs, bayberry, huckleberry, alder, sumach, 
pigeonwood, dogwood, shad bush, and beau- 
tiful cedars, many of them tall and symme- 
trical and of wonderful color, while younger 
seedlings are struggling to show themselves 
above the shrubs and tall weeds. 

In the humble huckleberry bush there is 
constantly varying color, especially effective 
when it occurs in masses. The opening leaves 
in spring are a lovely pale yellow-green, 
in June the bushes are covered with tiny 

167 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

white flowers, in midsummer with blue 
berries, while in autumn the foliage turns a 
deep red with tints of bronze, and all through 
the winter the branches of the bushes are 
tipped with varying shades of red. 

In woodlands, particularly where the big 
timber has been cut, will be found wonderful 
growths of laurel. From the foot of some 
great ledge of rock a little spring flows forth, 
sending its tiny trickle down to the bog or 
brook. Some of these bogs are composed of 
floating tussocks where grows the swamp 
maple, the earliest tree to attire itself in 
autumn coloring. Upon the low meadows are 
found in luxuriance the flowers of late sum- 
mer and autumn, — the Joe Pye weed and 
other eupatoriums, starwort and goldenrod. 
Along the ledges of rock, where there is shade, 
grow luxuriantly many mosses and the winter 
evergreen fern; there, too, can be found the 
more beautiful lycopodium with its curious 
tufted stems, and in sunny places in the 
narrow crevices of the rocks the tiniest 

168 



THE WILD GARDEN 

spring flowers make a home, among which 
is the fairj^-hke wind-flower. 

Upon a shaded bank in the woods, where the 
soil is of leaf-mold and the rock-ledge gives 
protection, will be found the Solomon's seal, 
and such a spot is also the habitat of the 
lovely trillium, which, in several varieties — 
white, red and purple — dots the ground. 

In more open and sunny woods there will 
bloom, in earliest spring, varieties of anem- 
one, yellow dog-tooth violets, single blue 
violets, snakeroot, Jack-in-the-pulpit, hepat- 
ica, and the bloodroot. 

Along old walls and fences are tangles of 
beautiful wild growth, including clematis, wild 
grape and Virginia creeper. The open fields 
and meadows are abloom with wild carrot, 
daisies, buttercups and wild violets. In a 
swampy spot where ice lies all the winter and 
water stands in early spring, the marigold 
makes a brilliant flame of yellow. 

The old mill-pond, where, perhaps, only 
the dam and water-run, with the ruin of the 

169 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

mill, remain, gives a wonderful opportunity 
for a water-garden, where the native pond- 
lilies, the giant arrowhead, the water hya- 
cinth and the pickerel weed may be planted. 
Many reeds and iris may fringe its edges, 
and swamp willows, maples and white birches 
may extend protecting arms over the quiet, 
secluded water. 

At the head of such a pond, the shy, bril- 
liant cardinal flower will be found in its home, 
and lovely ferns will grow in the cool mois- 
ture along the banks. 

It would be impossible, in this short 
chapter, to enumerate a tithe of all the 
native growth available for such a wild gar- 
den, and those mentioned are chosen at ran- 
dom. A recent bulletin of the state of Con- 
necticut, describing *'the flowering plants and 
ferns of Connecticut, growing without culti- 
vation," enumerates more than eight hundred 
species, which will afford some idea of the 
infinite variety of native plants available for 
such a garden. 

170 



THE WILD GARDEN 

Of the flowers called wild, some are "gar- 
den escapes," the seeds of which have come 
from cultivated gardens where they flourished 
generations ago ; others are "adventive," 
natives of foreign lands, among which are 
many of our common weeds which have 
spread in the same manner. 

All of the wild plants can be made to grow 
without cultivation if they are given the sur- 
roundings they require. A plant which in its 
natural condition demands shade and mois- 
ture would not thrive on a sunny upland, 
nor will those flowers which need sun and a 
location not too damp flourish on the bor- 
ders of a shaded stream. 

The banks of a stream overgrown and 
cluttered with leaves and dead branches may 
be cleared away and planted with moisture- 
loving things — marigolds, wild violets, cardi- 
nal flower, turtle-head and the wild rose. If, 
here and there, rocks crop out, moss, taken 
up in great masses, may be brought to grow 
upon them. 

171 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

At some convenient season, every one of 
these plants may be taken up with care, and, 
if properly planted in the situation each 
demands, they will go on growing serenely. 
These native plants may even be lifted, 
transported from almost any distance not too 
great, and so replanted that, the following 
day, there will be no suspicion that they 
have not always lived there on the banks of 
the little stream, or wherever they may have 
been set. 

A peaty bog will usually be filled with 
wild roses, azaleas and sweet pepper. Some- 
times these bushes cling to the rocks in a net- 
work of fibrous roots, making a foot-hold in 
the leaf-mold which gives them life. They 
may be stripped from the rocks intact and 
taken away to plant elsewhere. In dry times, 
when the swamps are accessible, the bushes 
that grow in the rich, wet soil can be taken 
up with a solid ball of earth around the roots 
and replanted with certainty of living. 

Lilium Canadense and L. Philadelphicum 
172 



THE WILD GARDEN 

may be staked when blooming, and taken up 
in the autumn, to plant where wanted. 

Trees growing in wet places, which are 
accessible only in dry times, may easily be 
transplanted. A circle some three feet from 
the trunk of the tree should first be dug 
around it, then from the circle a ditch should 
be opened, to lead away the water, and the 
whole left for a year to dry out. When the 
tree becomes accustomed to the drier soil, it 
may be transplanted wherever desired. 

I have seen tulip trees twenty feet high, 
thus treated, transplanted successfully from 
swamp to open ridge. For use in trans- 
planting, a stout carrier may be made of 
hickory poles with cross slats nailed closely 
together, light but strong, which can be taken 
into fields inaccessible to wagon, and will 
serve to carry out the plants and shrubs. 

The farmer's "stone boat" performs the 
same service for larger things, such as small 
trees, bayberries, billberries, great bushes of 
laurel, etc. 

173 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

If a field quite "run out," as the farmer 
expresses it, is to be tilled, some of the sod, 
which is often full of lovely wild flowers, may 
be taken up and brought to the wild garden. 
Thus transplanted, the blossom will not even 
droop for a day. 

If fences are to be straightened and re- 
built, the beautiful bushes and vines which 
have adorned their dilapidation may also be 
transplanted into the wild garden. 

The bogs, wet meadows and swamps, 
whether your own or your neighbor's, are 
your nurseries, and permission for such trans- 
planting will seldom be refused. But such 
constant reclamation is now being carried 
on all over the country that, if you see any 
plant or shrub you want growing in swamp 
or bog, you should lose no time in securing it 
for your natural garden; for bog and swamp 
may soon be drained and reclaimed and used 
for onion meadow or corn field, when its day 
as a nursery for wild flowers will be gone. 

In the practice of wild gardening, the win- 
174 



THE WILD GARDEN 

ter becomes no less interesting than the 
summer. 

Winter is the best time, not only to get at, 
but to transplant, many shrubs. They may 
be dug about during a thaw when the ground 
is soft, and allowed to stand until the ball of 
earth about the roots is frozen again, when 
they can be taken up and planted without 
even knowing it themselves. 

In late fall, when people are returning to 
town from their country -places, leaving the 
tender roses and other plants wrapped in 
straw, the fountain stilled and housed for 
the winter, loneliness and desolation hold 
sway in the cultivated garden, but the nat- 
ural garden is still full of lovely things. Ever- 
green fern, ground pine and wintergreen, with 
scarlet berries, carpet the ground; the bay- 
berry bush with its dull silver berries, the 
red-stemmed dogwood, the dark sumach, 
the red hips of the wild rose, the orange 
berries of the bittersweet, the glossy-leaved 
laurel and the waving plumes of goldenrod 

175 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

and asters remain beautiful throughout the 
winter. The bare branches of the trees are 
outhned against the sky in all their exquisite 
structure, the smooth fields are golden gray 
in the sunshine, and in woodland and thicket, 
nestling under the leaves, hepaticas await the 
April sun to unfold their delicate blossoms. 

Walking through the woods when clad in 
the white shroud of midwinter, one feels the 
charm of the mysterious stillness broken only 
by the sound of a dead branch falling from a 
tree, or by the gurgling of the brook flowing 
so swiftly that ice forms only upon its edges. 
There is, too, the added interest from the 
presence of the many wild creatures that in- 
habit the woods, whose frequent tracks in the 
snow are visible to us, each telling its own 
tale of woodland life. 

There is beauty in the bare fields ; the weeds 
and shrubs are lovely clad in their winter 
tints of brown, red, mauve and gray, intensi- 
fied by the changing tints of the snow. The 
water of the streams assumes the somber 

176 





' "til 





THE WILD GARDEN 

tones we so often see in paintings, which 
give a singular charm known only to those 
who seek the country in winter. 

The winter is the best time for planting, 
and transplanting also, for the reason that, 
then, every detail of the landscape is open to 
view and more clearly defined. A tree which 
in the summer you might decide to remove or 
cut down will often be allowed to remain if 
you wait until winter to see its trunk and 
branches against the sky, and their effect in 
the winter landscape. 

Do not think this wild gardening exists 
merely in imagination. I have a friend who 
has planned and developed just such a garden 
and has produced one of the most beautiful 
pieces of natural planting that can be found 
anywhere. He calls it the ''Connecticut Gar- 
den." This name was chosen, half in jest, half 
in earnest, to prove the possibility of making a 
garden of the natural plants and shrubbery 
which grow wild in Connecticut, and which, 
under favorable conditions, may be grouped 

177 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 



1' 



in effective planting and there grown without 
cultivation. The object of the garden was to 
grow effectively, in their natural conditions, 
those plants which would live without culti- 
vation or specially prepared soil. It is a 
garden where no seeds are sown, no fertilizer 
used, and where the ground is not tilled. Even 
wild roses, when transplanted from one part 
of the place to another, such as the Blanda 
and others, of which there are forty-three 
varieties native in Connecticut, receive no 
fertilizer. In situations where they are much 
in evidence, the ground over the roots is 
covered with sods of moss brought from the 
woods. In this wild garden, roses have thriven 
for years, though receiving no care. 

Some might call it a garden of weeds, but 
if the Joe Pye is a weed, so also are the wild 
violet, the trillium, the bloodroot and the 
hepatica. Those shrubs and flowers which 
are needed to produce an effect in mass are 
planted as closely together as possible, the 
branches even touching, while, in some other 

178 



THE WILD GARDEN 

situations, only single specimens of great size 
are used. 

In this Connecticut garden, the rock-ledges 
and boulders are treated as a part of the 
garden as much as the trees or flowers them- 
selves, and are objects of beauty. At the foot 
of the boulders grow, in places, prostrate 
junipers, native columbines and creeping 
phlox. In crevices of the rock-ledge are many 
ferns, columbines and velvety mosses, and 
along the tops of the ledges grow bayberry 
and huckleberry bushes. If a ledge has been 
obscured by a tangle of briar, underbrush 
and fallen limbs of trees, and the crevices of 
the rock are full of leaves and debris, all are 
cleared and brushed away, leaving only the 
clinging evergreen fern and many varieties of 
moss. In some niches, leaf-mold is placed, in 
which tiny flowers of exquisite beauty soon 
appear. 

These ledges of rock may be called not a 
rock garden, but rather a garden of rocks. 
Different conditions of the atmosphere — mist, 

179 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

sunshine and gray autumn — ^produce wonder- 
ful effects in their curious seams of color, and 
at times it is hard to say whether the rocks 
or the plants growing around and about them 
are most beautiful. 

Descending the swift slope of fields stretch- 
ing from the old farmhouse, and crossing a 
natural ravine, we pass a small pond where 
wild geese have found conditions so favorable 
that no temptations lead them away, cross a 
noisy brook that tumbles and sings on its way 
between the great boulders that line its sides, 
and finally come to the simple gate of white 
palings that opens between two graceful elms 
into the Connecticut garden. 

Here we find a little open green, along a 
stone wall, extending on one side of which 
masses of laurel grow and prosper in full 
sunshine. Descending a green aisle where in 
spring the sod is gay with tiniest flowers 
of white, yellow, lavender, blue, one side of 
which is bordered with a tall growth of 
huckleberry bushes backed by hundreds of 

180 



THE WILD GARDEN. 

wild flowering shrubs, and the other by 
wild roses, bayberry and wild azalea, we 
come to a ledge of rock where stands 
a giant laurel. This ledge, with its steep 
out-cropping, and masses of boulder and 
shelf of rock, is bright with color from 
early spring. Here, in May, white creeping 
phlox breaks in a foam against the rock, and 
Columbine, dwarf rose and low-flowering 
shrubs of every kind grow in profusion. 
Down another aisle, we come to a great tulip 
tree, the most wonderful specimen of its kind 
I have ever seen. 

Crossing a stream and following a narrow 
lane, where a little orchard of wild apple trees 
grows on one side and a thicket of dogwood 
and alder on the other, we come to the 
meadows composed of many acres of wild- 
growing native flowers. 

Across these meadows, wide paths are kept 
open by the mowing-machine, which serve to 
make possible closer view and enjoyment of 
the many flowers which grow here. These 

18] 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

meadows have been drained by a wide, shal- 
low ditch, as well as by a stream which flows 
gently through them. Upon the rising edges 
of the meadow along the woodland are masses 
of tall asters, heleniums and elderberry; and 
in the meadow bloom marigold, many iris, 
patches of the rare fringed blue gentian, tur- 
tle head, pink, white and crimson mallow, 
iron weed, vervain, thorough wort, and all the 
lovely growths natural to damp places, with 
their successively changing colors, of white, 
red, yellow, orange and russet. As month 
follows month, each species of plant rises 
higher and higher, each successive growth hid- 
ing the earlier one, until at last, in autumn, 
the great plumes of goldenrod, the many- 
hued starworts and the towering heleniums 
and helianthus reign supreme. 

Looking down upon the meadows are 
rounded knolls covered with sparse grass, 
which is thickly interspersed with flowers, 
such as St. John's-wort, everlasting, mulleins, 
beautiful thistles and black-eyed susans. 

182 



THE WILD GARDEN 

After the flowers have seeded themselves, 
in the autumn, the knolls are closely cut, to 
bring out their contours and give emphasis 
to the flowery meadows below them, which 
latter are mown by hand with scythe or 
sickle only when the earliest signs of coming 
spring appear, raked with heavy wooden 
rakes and the dead material removed, when, 
almost immediately, the floral procession that 
lasts until late autumn begins to appear. 

On other uprises of land above the meadows, 
wild apple trees are made to contribute great 
effect. Some twisted and stunted specimens, 
which in their struggle for life seldom blos- 
som or bear fruit, have been cut away at the 
top until they remind us of some curious and 
ancient Japanese trees. 

The ordinary wild apple trees, often covered 
thickly with red and yellow fruit which hangs 
upon the branches until winter, give charm- 
ing detail. They overhang pathways, and are 
more beautiful than anything that could be 
planted in their places. These apples, too, 

183 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

are of value as food for the wild inhabitants 
of the garden. On a winter's day, the par- 
tridge comes for the apple seeds, and when 
startled into flight, makes a dash of gray into 
the shelter of the woods. 

The wild garden is also a home for the 
birds; the red-winged blackbird makes his 
nest among the bulrushes and cat-tails; thei 
chewink is busy in the leaves under the 
shrubs; the thrush finds here his favorite 
haunts, and also the yellow hammer, the 
bluejay, and all the birds of wood and 
thicket. 

After the leaves have fallen in autumn, the 
nests which have been skilfully hidden 
among the verdure are then seen for the first 
time, and we become aware how very many 
of the shy and elusive birds have made this 
garden their home. 

Passing along the wide pathway, through 
the meadow of flowers and through a thicket 
of willows, we come to the "shadow pond," 
quite concealed from view by the shrubbery 

184 



THE WILD GARDEN 

and the contour of the ground until we reach 
its very edge. Here we find a water-garden 
dug from the bog, with winding, irregular 
banks upon which grow wild roses, tall lilies, 
alder, azaleas, the sweet pepper, and in the 
wet, low edges flags and grasses, and all the 
water-loving plants, while pink, white and 
yellow pond-lilies float upon the surface of 
the water. On one side, this pond is bordered 
by a great woodland which in the spring is 
pink with wild azalea; across the pond, one 
looks into a little glade of singular charm and 
seclusion, framed in by high ledge upon ledge, 
where great cedars grow naturally, and where, 
in the foreground, the dominant feature is an 
ancient swamp ash of wonderful symmetry 
and size. 

From this little glade we come to a green 
meadow which has been reclaimed from a 
thicket and bog, through which, along a 
plantation of hornbeam, a slender stream 
flows until it loses itself in the bog which 
feeds the water-garden. 

185 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

Through this Connecticut garden many- 
paths lead, which are often carpeted with 
sods taken from some lean pasture or meadow, 
carrying with them small mosses and tiny- 
flowers. Along one path a little orchard has 
been planted of the wild apple trees found on 
the farm, set in line with the path. Other 
paths lead through thickets of dogwood and 
alders. 

By another path, we come to a corner of 
the garden given over to lilies, which grow in 
a bed by themselves, — the Hemerocallis fulva, 
or old familiar tawny day hly, the lemon day 
lily, the blackberry lily (all of which are 
garden escapes) ; then there are also L. Phila- 
delphicum, or red wood lily, L. superbum, or 
Turk's cap lily, and the L. Canadense, or wild 
yellow lily, all of which together make a veri- 
table garden of lilies. 

Walking through the densest woods by 
old wood roads and narrow footpaths winding 
between the trees, and often following a 
stream, we see the frail Indian pipe that 

186 



THE WILD GARDEN 

shrinks from the sunlight; pushing away dead 
leaves, we find plantations of the lovely trail- 
ing arbutus, which is fast becoming extinct 
as a wild flower, because of the reckless man- 
ner in which it is gathered, whole plants being 
too often torn up by the roots. In these 
woods, too, lives the maidenhair fern, loved 
by all who know it; and in brighter spots, 
growing about the foot of some great rock, 
is the bluebell. Campanula rotundifolia, which 
grows alike in sunshine and in shadow, in 
rich, mouldy soil or barren sandy hilltop. 

A most beautiful path takes us through a 
gap in the tallest ledge of rocks, down a hill- 
side where many cedars grow along the path, 
with just enough of intention to emphasize 
the alignment. Here, in blustering weather, 
no winds can penetrate, and in summer heats 
cool quiet dwells. In this fragrant, dense 
seclusion, one would fain sit and read or 
dream for hours. At the curve of this path 
we see the Gray Glen, with the tall gray 
trunks of swamp ash, elm, oak, tulip and 

187 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

whitewood growing in the Glen, through 
which a stream finds its way, amidst a 
maze of rock and boulder, down into the 
main river. 

At all times, — in early spring, in times of 
freshet when the streams tumble and foam 
along their course, in the drought and heat 
of midsummer, the murmurs of the brooks 
and the sound of falling water as it comes 
down through two beautiful little glens and 
falls over artfully constructed dams quite 
hidden from view, — there is the enchantment 
which running water alone can give to land- 
scape or garden. And among the greatest 
charms of this Connecticut garden are the 
river that flows along its outer boundaries, 
the streams, brooks and swamps running 
through it, and its wonderful water-supply, 
abundant in all seasons. 

In spring, all the woods are carpeted with 
dog-tooth violets, anemones, and blue vio- 
lets, and one cannot tread without crushing 
some delicate plant, while snakeroot, sweet 

188 



THE WILD GARDEN 

fern, oxalis, hepaticas and the many other 
flowers make a garden of the woods. 

Beyond, and a mile and more from the 
Connecticut garden, and separated from it 
by glades and sloping fields, upon a far end 
of the estate, there is a wonderful hemlock 
glen, where a foaming stream tumbles over 
its rocky bed, which lies at the bottom of a 
deep ravine worn out by centuries of rushing 
waters. This glen is bordered on both sides 
and banks by ancient hemlocks, through 
whose great branches the sunshine comes but 
gently; here footsteps make no sound on the 
needle-sown ground, gray rocks, bedded in 
ferns, and carpeted with many varieties of 
moss, invite one to sit upon their soft cush- 
ions and listen to the changing music of the 
stream below, while wood pigeons, flying from 
tree to tree, utter their soft notes, and deli- 
cious scents of sweet fern and resinous hem- 
lock fill the air. The stream, in places dash- 
ing over water-worn boulders, sends its white 
spray high in air, and again hurries down 

189 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

many rapids, and comes to rest in clear 
brown pools where the sunlight sends its 
golden glints, and shy trout can be seen if 
one creeps softly to the water's edge. 

With just a bite of luncheon, a book, per- 
haps a dog as companion, one can spend a 
long, deUcious day in this wonderful hemlock 
glen, and, in late afternoon, in the level light 
of the sunset hour, the walk across the quiet 
fields to the low, gray farmhouse is not the 
least of the day's delights. 

Standing before this quaint century-old 
house, a never-to-be-forgotten landscape 
stretches before us. To the eastward we look 
down on a gently sloping field of broad ex- 
panse, on the great twin elms which keep 
watch at the gate of the Connecticut garden, 
and see in the distance the rock-ledges and 
boulders, the flowery meadow, the dark 
cedars, and the general contours of the 
natural garden. Towards the south, we look 
out over tracts of woodland, much of it first 
growth, over orchards of twisted apple trees 

190 



THE WILD GARDEN 

and smooth, green fields where sheep gather 
under the protecting shade of great oaks, 
across a wide extent of country to the 
distant, shimmering sea, many miles away, 
now blue, now gray where the sunlit sails 
are clearly seen. 

This Connecticut garden is a unique ex- 
pression of wild, or natural, gardening, which 
has both value and interest, and is well 
worth while. It is of importance, also, as an 
example of a development of possibilities 
that may be within the reach of many who, 
so far, have not availed themselves of oppor- 
tunities lying close at hand. Here are gathered 
and planted, with a particular regard for 
appropriateness of situation and proximity, 
nearly all of the native plants, ferns and 
shrubs of Connecticut, and the locality 
itself is so favored that most of the wild 
flowers whose habitat is anywhere in the 
country between southern Maine and New 
Jersey are to be found there, the orchids of 
the more northern region alone being wanting. 

191 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

The maker of the Connecticut garden has 
not learned his art from books, but rather 
from a great love of nature and a close and 
ce»nstant observation of her thousand phases. 
And he has created, through the use and 
development of native material only, a 
srardeu which is trulv wonderful. 



192 




Tlic brook in s})ringlinic 



SHRUBS, VINES, PLANTS, AND BULBS 

WHICH I HA\^ GROWN 

SUCCESSFULLY 



SHRUBS, \7NES, PLANTS AND BULBS 

WHICH I HAVE GROWN 

SUCCESSFULLY 

HARDY SHRUBS 

Azalea mollis. 2 to 3 feet. Plant only in 
spring. Never prnne. Should have northern 
exposure. Must be 
heavily mulched 
and kept moist in 
summer. Blooms 
in Maj^ and early 
June. The most 
effective low-grow- 
ing shrub. When 
blooming, it is one 
mass of delicate 
blossoms of many 
colors — pink, pur- 
ple, crimson, lav- 
ender, red, orange, 
yellow and white. Azalea moia. 




195 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

The pink variety from the woods is, of 
course, hardy. The Azalea mollis, though very 
beautiful, is, however, not particularly hardy. 

Berberis Thunbergii (Japanese Bar- 
berry). 6 feet. Plant in early spring. Has 
scarlet berries in the fall that remain through 
most of the winter. It is very hardy and 
healthy, and is suitable for low hedges. 

Calycanthus floridus (Sweet Shrub; 
Strawberry Shrub). 6 to 12 feet. Plant in 
the spring, or in the fall not later than Octo- 
ber 15th. Blooms in early June. With its 
fragrant, little, pineapple-shaped, maroon- 
colored flowers, it is a familiar sight in 
old-fashioned gardens. 

Clethra alnifolia (White Alder; Sweet 
Pepper Bush). 6 to 8 feet. Plant in the 
spring. Blooms in July and August. The 
spikes of delicate, feathery white flowers 
have a very sweet perfume. 

CoRNUS FLORIDA and C. rubra (White- 
and Red-flowering Dogwood). 8 to 15 feet. 
Transplant from woods, or plant in the fall 

196 



I 



SHRUBS, VINES, PLANTS AND BULBS 

by October 15th, as it starts very early in the 
spring. Blooms in May. The large, flat, irreg- 
ular flowers — either white or a purplish 
red — often cover the tree with a mass of color. 
Crat^gus (Hawthorn). 10 feet. Plant in 




Deutzia crenata. See page 198 

197 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 



^ 



the early spring or fall. Blooms in May and 
June. It has very fragrant, delicate little 
pink-and-white blossoms, both double and 
single, which are followed by small red ber- 
ries. The haw- 
thorn is familiar 
to all readers of 
English litera- 
ture. In fact, it 
is perhaps the 
b e s t - k n o w n 
English shrub. 

Cytisus La- 
B URNUM ( Golden 
Rain). 8 to 12 
feet. Plant in the 
autumn before 

Deutzia crenata Octobcr 15 til. 

Blooms in early summer. This dwarf tree, or 
large shrub, has long, drooping racemes of 
bright yellow^ flowers. 

Deutzli candidissima and D. crenata). 
8 to 10 feet. Plant in spring or fall. Blooms 

198 




SHRUBS, VINES, PLANTS AND BULBS 



the end of June and July. A very beautiful 
and profusely blooming shrub. The small 
blossoms are either single or double, and come 
in white, pink and white tinged with pink. 

FORSYTHIA 

FoRTUNEi and 

F. SUSPENSA 

(Golden Bell). 

6 to 10 feet. 

Plant in the fall. 

Blooms in April 

and early May. 

The first shrub 

to bloom in the 

spring. Its tall, 

straight (or, in 

the Suspensa, 

drooping) 

branches, covered with bright yellow bells, 

are a delight to the eye. 

Hibiscus Syriacus, alba plena, grand- 
IFLORA, suPERBA, Jeanne d'Arc. (Althea; 
Rose of Sharon.) 6 to 8 feet. Plant early in 

199 




Hibiscus 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

the spring. Blooms in July and August, when 
few other shrubs are in blossom. A beauti- 
ful shrub, growing very tall and straight, 
and particularly good for high hedges. The 
leaves are handsome, and the single and 



r 




Japanese Maple. See page 201 

double cup-shaped flowers are purple, ma- 
genta, pink and white. The white and pale 
pink are lovely. 

Hydrangea paniculata grandiflora. 6 
feet. Plant in the spring. Blooms the end of 
July and August. Perhaps the best-known 
of all summer shrubs. The blossoms, in dense, 

200 



SHRUBS, VINES, PLANTS AND BULBS 

pyramidal panicles, often a foot long, are at 
the end of every branch. At first white, and 
later changing to a russet-pink, they last for 
weeks. A particularly satisfactory shrub, for 
it blooms at a time when there is no other 
blossoming shrub. 

Japanese Maple. 2 to 6 feet. Plant in 
the spring. These shrubs have no blossoms, 
but the brilliant tones — either red, yellow or 
purple — of the delicate foliage lend a most 
attractive note of color to shrubberies. 

LiGUSTRUM OVALIFOLIUM (California 
Privet). 2 to 8 feet. Plant in the spring. 
More frequently used for hedges than any 
other plant; also very good as a screen. When 
planted in hedges it should be set out 8 to 12 
inches apart. Must be pruned twice a year, — ■ 
in June and August, — otherwise the plants 
will be " leggy," and the hedge not thick 
and fine. 

LiGUSTRUM vuLGARE (Commou Privct). 
2 to 8 feet. Plant in the spring. Much more 
hardy than the California privet and equally 

201 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

good for hedges and screens. Should be set 
out and pruned in the same way. 




jNIagnolia conspicua. See page 203 

202 



SHRUBS, VINES, PLANTS AND BULBS 



Magnolia conspicua, M. Soulangeana 
and M. stella. 4 to 8 feet. Plant in early 
spring. Never prune. Blooms in April or 
May, according to 
the variety. A tree- 
like shrub, with 
large, smooth, shiny 
leaves and cup-like /- 
flowers that are 
white, pink and a 
p u r p 1 i sh pink. 
They are a great 
source of pleasure, 
for they bloom at 
a time when there 

is little else. Some Magnolia Soulangeana 

old specimens are very large, and, of course, 
in warm climates they attain the size of trees. 
Philadelphus grandiflorus (Mock Or- 
ange). G to 10 feet. Plant in early spring or 
fall. Blooms in early June. A very popular 
and hardy shrub, covered, in blooming time, 
with masses of white flowers, shaped like the 

203 




THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 



wild rose, and of a powerful and spicy fra- 
grance. Very good as a screen. 

Pruxus Pissardi (Purple-leaved Plum). 
8 to 10 feet. Plant in spring or fall. A most 
effective shrub, with reddish purple leaves 
and stems that deepen in color as the season 
advances. 

Prunus Japonica alba and rubra (Flow- 
ering Almond). Plant in early spring or fall. 
Blooms in May and June. A very effective 
shrub. The beautiful flowers are single and 
double, white and red. 



t 




Magnolia stella. See page ^03 

204 



SHRUBS, VINES, PLANTS AND BULBS 

Pyrus Japonica (Japanese Quince; Burn- 
ing Bush). Plant in spring or fall. Blooms in 
May. A very handsome shrub when it is in 
full bloom, for it is then one mass of brilliant 
red flowers. 

Rosa rugosa (Ramanas Rose). 2 to 6 
feet. Plant in early spring or fall. Blooms 
almost all summer. A very healthy shrub of 
the rose family. The large blossoms are sin- 
gle and double, and pink, white and crimson. 
Later in the year they are followed by red 
seed-pods. It is often used for hedges. 

Rhus Cotinus (Purple Fringe, or Smoke 
Tree). 8 to 15 feet. Plant in the spring. 
Blooms in July. A tree-like shrub. When it 
is in bloom, the great featheriness and pecu- 
liar pinkish gray of the blossoms make the 
bush look as if it were enveloped in a cloud 
of smoke or morning mist. 

Spir^a Anthony Waterer, prunifolia. 
Bridal Wreath, Thunbergii and Van 
HouTTEi. 4 to 8 feet. Plant in early spring 
or fall. Blooms the end of May and early in 

205 



THE rilACTICAL FLOAVER GARDEN 

June. \ very beautiful shrub. In blooming, 
time it is one mass of flowers that are white 
pink, and, in some varieties, crimson. Thej 
Spircpa 17/// Hoiittci is perhaps the mostj 
attractive member of the family. 

Symphoricarpos racemosus (Snowberry). 
4 to 6 feet. Plant in early spring. Blooms in 
August. The little pink flowers and the white 
wax-like berries grow side by side upon the 
branch. The berries remain until quite into 
the winter. 

Syrinca Josik.ea, Madame Lemoine, 
Madame Casimir-perier, Persica alba and 
Marie Legraye (Lilac). 3 to 10 feet. 
Plant in spring or fall — before October 15th. 
Blooms in May and June. The long, fra- 
grant panicles of bloom are white, pink and 
purple, single and double, and are familiar to 
all. No shrub is more satisfactory, both in 
blooming time and at other seasons, for the 
branches are heavily covered with handsome, 
healthy, smooth green leaves. They are, 
however, in some localities, subject to mil- 

206 



SHRUBS, VINES, PLANTS AND BULBS 

dew. In these modern days of flower-culture, 
the hlacs have been so perfected and the 




Syringa, Marie Legraye 

207 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 



varieties of Japanese, Persian, and French 
syringas are so numerous and varied that the 
catalogue of one firm alone has over fifty 

varieties. An at- 



tractive spring 
garden could be 
made with this 
shrub only, in all 
its many colors, 
shapes and fami- 
lies. As there 
are both early- 
and late-bloom- 
ing varieties, 
this spring gar- 
den would be a 
beautiful chang- 
ing color picture for fully five weeks. 

Viburnum plicatu:m (Japanese Snowball). 
() to 10 feet. Plant in early spring or fall. 
Blooms the end of May and June. The foli- 
age is healthy and dark, and the flowers grow 
in large balls. The sharp contrast between 

208 




Lilac 



SHRUBS, VINES, PLANTS AND BULBS 

white flowers and very dark leaves, and the 
unusual manner in which the blossoms grow, 
make this a very effective and decorative 
shrub. 

Weigela CANDIDA, EvA Rathke and 
ROSEA. 6 to 10 feet. Plant in the spring. 
Blooms in June and July. A favorite shrub 
with good foliage and many trumpet-shaped 
flowers which are white and various shades 
of pink. 

EVERGREEN SHRUBS 

STANDARD SHRUBS 

Buxus (Dwarf, Bush, Globe-shaped, Pyram- 
idal and Standard Box). 6 inches to 6 feet. 
Plant in spring. A favorite evergreen si i rub 
with small, smooth, glossy leaves, but, in 
localities where the winters are severe, it is 
not hardy, and all box, except the dwarf vari- 
eties, must be kept in a cellar, or green- 
house, in winter. The dwarf variety will 
survive the severe climate only if heavily 
covered with straw, leaves, and even boards, 

209 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

which must not be removed too early in the 
spring, for the thawing and freezing of the 
first warm days will burn and hurt box even 
more than the cold of winter. 

The dwarf box for edging flower-beds 
should be planted three inches apart and 
trimmed in June and August. The larger box 
plants, such as the pyramidal and standard 
varieties, are better grown in tubs, for they 
can be thus more easily moved, as it is not 
well for them to be too often transplanted. 

Laurus nobilis (Pyramidal, Tree-shaped 
or Standard Bay Trees). Not hardy. IMust 
be kept indoors in winter ; but in either green 
or white wooden tubs, or in white or red 
terra-cotta pots, the bay tree is invaluable as 
a garden or terrace decoration. 

HARDY EVERGREEN SHRUBS 

Kalmia latifolia (Mountain Laurel). 2 
to 10 feet. Plant or transplant from the woods 
earl}^ in the spring or in the fall. Never 
prune. Does better in partial shade. Should 

210 



I 



I 



SHRUBS, VINES, PLANTS AND BULBS 

be well mulched and kept watered in summer. 
Blooms early in June. This is a beautiful 




Kalmia latifolia 
211 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

shrub, with unusual cup-shaped blossoms that 
grow at the ends of the branches, and are 
either white or a delicate pink. The leaves 
are smooth, narrow and glossy. There is no 
more beautiful sight than the woods when 
the laurel is in blossom, with flowers in masses 
among the dark tree-trunks. Tradition has 
it that the foliage is poisonous to sheep, 
hence the country name," sheep laurel." 

Mahonia (Ashberry). Plant in the spring 
or fall. Blooms in May. A hardy shrub with 
leaves like the English holly and turning 
crimson in the winter; pretty j^ellow flowers. 

Rhododendron maximum. '■2 to 8 feet. 
Plant, or transplant from woods, in spring, 
or, in fact, almost any time before August. 
Never prune. Blooms in June and July 
according to the variety. Should be kept in 
partial shade. Must be heavily mulched and 
in summer should be always moist. The 
Rhododendron maximum, indigenous to our 
woods, has a pink flower that grows in clus- 
ters on the ends of the branches. It is one 

212 



SHRUBS, VINES, PLANTS AND lU LJiS 

of those plants where the bud forms one year 
and the blossoms the next. Other varieties 
are purple, pink, mauve and white, but, 
unlike the Maximum, they will not thrive in 
verv cold localities. 




Rhododendron maxiinum 



EVERGREENS 

Evergreens can be set out at almost any 
time, from early spring until September, 
provided the roots are never allowed to dry 
until the shrub is well started. It is wiser, 
however, to plant or transplant from the 

213 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

woods in early spring before the young 
shoots have started, or in August after the 
shrub has finished growing. All evergreens 
are improved by shearing, which makes the 
foliage more dense and handsome. When 
grown in hedges they cannot have too 
much shearing; it makes the hedge thick and 
prevents it from being " leggy " ; nothing 
can be more unattractive than a hedge 
where the branches begin a foot above the 
ground. 

Abies (Spruce, or Fir). 3 feet upward. 

A. ALBA (White Spruce). Of thick pyram- 
idal growth with silvery foliage; very hardy. | 

A. BALSAMEA (Balsam Fir). Our familiar 
Christmas tree; very hardy. 

A. Canadensis (Hemlock Spruce). A hardy I 
native tree, splendid for hedges, but it is 
naturally of open growth and must be 
heavily sheared. 

A. EXCELSA (Norway Spruce). A beauti 
ful hardy tree, perfect in shape, with dense 
dark green foliage. 

214 



SHRUBS, VINES, PLANTS AND BULBS 

A. EXCELSA AUREA. A golden-leavcd vari- 
ety of Norway Spruce. 

A. XoRDMANNiAXA. The foHage is a silver- 
gray above, and a duller, darker color below. 
A fine, hardy tree. 

A. puxGExs GLAUCA (Colorado Blue 
Spruce). One of the most beautiful of the 
evergreens. It has foliage of a decided blue 
tone, grows very densely and in good form, 
and is entirely hardy. 

A. PUXGEXS GLAUCA KosTERi. A morc 
perfected type of the Colorado Blue Spruce. 

JuNiPERUs (Juniper). 3 feet upwards. 

J. coMMuxis Heberxica (Irish Juniper). 
A beautiful tree growing tall and slim and 
straight, like a Lombardy poplar. It is, how- 
ever, rather delicate and will not live much 
further north than central New Jersey. 

J. ViRGixiAXA (Red Cedar). Indigenous 
to our woods and very hardy. Grows tall 
and straight and very compact ; is a 
most ornamental tree and can be used to 

215 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

lend height and character to the garden, in 
the same way the Itahan and Spanish gar- 
deners use their cypress trees. 

PiNUS (Pine). 3 feet upward. 

P. Strobus (White Pine). One of our 
native pines and very hardy. It has hght 
green fohage and will live in a poor soil. 

P. SYLVESTRis (Scotcli Piuc). Another 
very hardy, healthy, straight-growing pine 
that will be found most satisfactory. 

Retinispora (Japan Cypress). 2 feet up- 
ward. 

R. FiLiFERA (Thread-branched). A hardy, 
drooping variety with large, pointed leaves. 
Very good to plant with straight-growing 
evergreens, as the sharp contrast is attrac- 
tive. 

R. PLUMOSA. A mass of dark green, feathery 
branches; much improved by shearing. Only 
fairly hardy. 

R. PLUMOSA AUREA. A Variety in which the 
young shoots and terminal branches are 

gl6 



SHRUBS, VINES, PLANTS AND BULBS 

quite yellow. Not hardy north of New Jer- 
sey, but most effective among the darker 
evergreens. Needs much shearing to make 
it thick and bushy. 

R. SQUARROSA Veitchii. A low-growiug, 
bushy variety with feathery, silvery, blue- 
green foliage. Hardy only south of New York 
except in very protected situations. In other 
places it must be covered in winter. It 
requires much shearing. 

SciADOPiTYS (Umbrella Pine). 3 feet up- 
ward. A Japanese evergreen that is partic- 
ularly beautiful. The foliage is in the shape 
of rather long, broad needles growing around 
a center point — a light, yellowish green above, 
and quite w^hite underneath. It stands out 
in sharp contrast to other evergreens, and 
should always be planted where it can sur- 
vive the winters, for it will not live much 
further north than New Jersey. 

Thuya ( Arborvitse) . 3 feet upward. All 
the varieties of this evergreen are hardy. 
Most satisfactory and best-kno\yn ^-re; 

217 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

T. ELEGANTissiMA AUREA. The young 
shoots are quite yellow in summer, and in 
winter turn to bronze. 

T. occiDENTALis (American Arborvitse). 
The well-known variety, excellent for hedges. 
Needs plenty of shearing to keep it thick. 

T. SiBiRiCA. A low-growing variety, with 
bluish green foliage; particularly hardy. 

HARDY PERENNIALS 

Almost all perennials can be easily grown 
from seed, which may be sown in the spring, 
or in August, in rows in the seed-bed. After 
careful weeding and watering, the plants will 
be large enough by October 1st to trans- 
plant either into rows or into the borders 
where they are to bloom the following year. 
Plants can be bought from nurserymen, and 
old plants of such varieties as rudbeckia, 
phlox, peony, larkspur, etc., may be 
divided. 

Achillea, The Pearl (Milfoil, or Yarrow). 
12 inches. Plant in the spring, or in the fall 

218 



I 



SHRUBS, VINES, PLANTS AND BULBS 

before October 15th. Blooms in June and 
July. Is both yellow and white, but it is far 
more attractive and satisfactory as a white 
flower. 

AcoNiTUM Napellus (Monkshood). 3 to 
4 feet. Plant in October or early spring. 
Blooms from the end of July until frost. 
One of the most beautiful blue flowers, that 
is not usuall}^ appreciated as it should be. 
The individual flowers, like many little 
caps, make a most effective note of color in 
the border. It thrives better in partial 
shade and should be planted where it does 
not get the full, strong sun. The handsome 
leaves are sometimes affected with a black 
microbian disease, and, to avoid this, the 
plants must be sprayed in April, May and 
June with Bordeaux mixture. 

Anchusa Italica, Dropmore Variety 
(Sea Bugloss). 3 to 8 feet. Plant in the 
early spring, or in the fall before October 
15th. Blooms from about June 1st for six 
weeks. A very healthy plant with long spikes 

219 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 



of deep blue flowers, which are very orna- 
mental. 

Agrostemma Coronaria (Mullein Pink) 
and A. Flos Jovis (Flower of Jove). (Rose 
Campion). 3 feet. Plant in the spring, or in 
the fall before October 15th. Blooms in June 







Anemone 

and July. This plant has silvery foliage and 
pink-like flowers in deep rose and crimson; 
very useful in the pink border. 

Anemone Japonica, Whirlwind and alba 
(Japanese Windflower). 2 to 3 feet. Plant in 
the spring that it may be well established by 

^20 



SHRUBS, VINES, PLANTS AND BULBS 

winter. Blooms in August and September. 
There are red and pink varieties, but as a 
white flower it is one of the garden queens ; 
and who does not always prefer a white flower.^ 
It will do well in partial shade, and is quite 
hardy, but needs some slight covering in 
winter. Can be used satisfactorily both in 
borders and in beds by itself. 

Aquilegia (Columbine). 2 to 3 feet. Plant 
early in the spring, or after September 15th. 
Blooms the end of May and June. An impor- 
tant, beautiful perennial. The long-spurred 
flowers are of many beautiful colors and 
always a great source of delight to the flower 
lover. Planted in partial shade, in front of 
azaleas, laurel, rhododendron or ferns, it is 
particularly delightful. 

Aster, Hardy (Michaelmas Daisy, or 
Starwort). 1 to 4 feet. Plant in the spring. 
Blooms from the middle of August until frost. 
Our common roadside aster; in many colors, 
from white through the pink, lavender and 
purple shades. Very effective and beautiful. 

221 . 



riiK ruAL'ruwi. i'lowku (., ahdkn 



Is best in shrubbories or in the NviUl garden. 
Thoro aro niaii}" varieties —ono soodsnian lists 
ono lunuirod and twonty-nine. A border of 

hardy asters is 

abvays a bean- 
lit'ul aiidition to 
the uard.en. 

]■> A M R o o . 
Hakoy. 14 to 
•:0 feet. Phmt 
in the spring or 
fall. These tall 
grasses need a 
rieh soil a n d 
plenty of water. 
T h e y s h o n 1 d 
Starwort also be lu\n"ily 

nuilehed, both in sninnier and Nvinter. and 
should be planted in a sheltered position. 
Are partienlarly good against a backgronnd 
of native trees and along the banks of a 
pond or stream. 

BaPTISIA ArSTRALIS and B. tinctorl\ 




SHRUBS, VINKS, PLANTS AM) HI LliS 

(False Indigo), "i Feet. Plant in tlie early 
,si)riiii>', or in I he fall before October 15lli. 
Blooms ill June .mikI July. A lieallliy i)l{inl. 
with sj)ik(*s of flowers which are dark blue 
in (lie Auslralis, and yellow in I he ^rineloria. 
Very useful in a l)lue l)()rder or in the wild 
garden. 

H 101. us PERENNTS (English Daisy). '2 to 
() inches. Can be raised, like all jKM-ennials, 
from seed sown either in the spring' or in 
July and Augusl. Laler, il should be Irans- 
])lanted to where it is to bloom. Should be 
covered in winter. Blooms in May and June. 
This little, ball-shaped, white-and-pink flower 
is familiar to all. (Generally used as an edging 
for beds and borders. 

BoccoNiA coiiDATA (Pluuie Poppy). 5 to 
8 feet. Plant in (he spring, or in the fall 
before October 15tli. Blooms in July or 
August. A large, decorative plant, with 
handsome leaves and long spikes of small, 
feathery white flowers that are succeeded 
by bronze-green seed-pods. Very attractive 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 



in shrubberies or in wild borders. It 
increases rapidly. 




Bocconia 

224 



SHRUBS, VINES, PLANTS AND BULBS 

BOLTONIA GLASTIFOLIA and B. LATISQUAMA 

(False Chamomile). 4 to 6 feet. Plant in the 
spring, or in the fall before October L5th. 
Blooms in August and September. A very 
useful and beautiful perennial. When in 
bloom, it is one mass of white or pink daisy- 
like flowers. 

Campanula medium (Canterbury Bells). 
3 feet. Plant in the spring, or, if the plants 
are already where they are to bloom, dig in 
around each a little manure or bone meal, in 
April. They should be staked. Canterbury 
Bells are easily raised from seed, but the seed- 
lings should be transplanted by September 
20th into the beds where they are to bloom, 
in order that they may be w^ell rooted before 
the winter. Blooms in June and July for over 
a month. The most satisfactory of the Cam- 
panula family. Beautiful ni borders in front 
of early pink phlox that should bloom at the 
same time, and back of the Sweet William, 
or Newport Pink 

C. MEDIUM CALYCAXTHEMA (Cup and SaU- 
225 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

cer; Canterbury Bells). 2 to 3 feet. Another 
form of the same flower, well described by its 
name. 

C. PYRAMiDALis (Chimney Bellflower). 4 to 
6 feet. Plant in the spring. Blooms in July 
and August. The tall spikes of bloom of 
white or blue are quite remarkable, but, 
because when grown in the garden the stalks 
bloom irregularly — some flowers here, some 
there — it is not universally admired. When 
grown and forced in greenhouses, or in shade, 
the whole stalk blooms at once and is very 
beautiful. 

Chrysanthemum, Hardy Pompon. 2 to 3 
feet. Plant in the spring. Only the Pompon 
varieties are really hard3\ They need a rich 
soil, and a sunny, sheltered place where they 
can be protected from early frosts. Bloom 
often into November, as onl}^ a verj^ severe 
frost affects them. No buds should be allowed 
to form until September, and until then all 
shoots should be pinched back. The hardy 
chrysanthemums give a profusion of small, 

226 



I 



SHRUBS, VINES, PLANTS AND BULBS 



ragged blossoms, growing in clusters, and 
come in all the best colors — white, rose, 
violet-crimson, yellow, orange and brown. 
Old plants should 
be divided to 
about four shoots 
each and trans- 
planted very early 
in the spring when 
these same shoots 
are about 3 inches 
high. The aphids 
which sometimes 
appear may be 
killed by spraying 
with tobacco 
water. 

Coreopsis 
grandiflora. 3 
feet. Sow in seed- 
bed in early spring. 
Separate when the 
plants crowd each 

227 




Coreopsis grandiflora 



TllF rUAcTUWl, Vl.OWKU C^AKOF.N 



1 



other, and in tho autiinm trausplaut to the 
borders or to ro\v> in the garden for entting. 
A valnalde bright yelKnv tUnver, lilooms 
contimionsly . has long stems: qnite liardy. 
DELruiMiM J,arkspnr\ 4 to S feet. Plant 




Dolphiuium 



SIIKUHS, VINKS, IM.ANTS AND nULHS 



ill tlie i'jill. No nianuiv should he .•illowcd to 
come near the roots, hul hoiic meal may be 
used in May, and coal-aslies should he 
spriukled ou llic 
crown in the 
autumn as a 
preventive of 
the vvliite gruh 
wliieh destroys 
tlie plant. (Irows 
so hii^h that it 
should always 
he staked. Lark- 
spur is easily 
grown from seed , 
but should be 

finally set out, Delphinium 

where it is to l)lo()m, })y September 2()th. 
Begins blooming the end of June, and if the 
stalks are cut down when the plant has 
finished blooming, a second, and often a third, 
crop of blossoms will be j)roduced. There are 
often twelve to twenty stalks of blossoms on 

229 



m 


19 






^^^^KKv^W^ A. ^..a^^ff£M 




m^ 





THF, ruArniwi, riinvKu garden 

a single plnnl. The plants sluniUi be given 
a little bone meal eaeh time lliey are ent 
down. The larks]nir has Ixhmi wonderfully 
developed, and there are many varieties. The 
English eatalognes mention over two hun- 
dred. These are tall- and low-growing, single 
and double, light blue and dark blue, blue 
and lavender, and all these shades combined. 
DiAX THIS UAKBATi s (^Newpoi't Pink: Sweet 
AVilliam\ 1 to '2 feet. Considered a perennial, 
but it is wiser to sow fresh seed every year 
than to rely on dividing old plants. Sow the 
seed in the seetl-bed in rows, in ^lay, and, 
in July, transplant to al^out 6 to S inehes 
apart. Finally, in the fall, by September '■20th, 
transplant the little plants to the beds or bor- 
ders where they are to bloom the following 
year. Blooms in June, for nearly a month. 
An old-time garden favorite, with straight, 
stitf stems and large heads of bloom, often 
five inches across. Individual flowers are 
often as large as a nickel. Sweet "Williams 
make a beautiful edging for a border. It is 




SHRUBS, VINES, I'LANTS AND BTJLBS 

a healthy plant, remains in bloom for fully 
three weeks, and the flowers are of beautiful 
colors — white, pink, crimson, yellow, white 
with a pink eye. Newport Pink, a new 
variety, is particularly bo^autiful, being a 
watermelon-pink. It does not, however, seem 
to be quite as hardy as the rather v^arieties. 

DiCTAMNUS fCias Plant;. 2 to 3 feet. ]*lant 
in the spring in a sunny place. It should f>e 
seldom transplanted, but the roots may be 
separated. Blooms in June and July. In hot 
weather, the odd pi nk-and- white flowers give 
out a fragrant oil which a lighted match will 
ignite. The tall spikes of bloom make this a 
very handsome perennial. 

DicENTRA (Bleeding Heart). 1 to 2 feet. 
Plant in the fall, as it starts very early in the 
spring. Blooms in May and June. The long 
racemes of heart-shaped pink -and -white 
flowers are familiar to all lovers of old- 
fashioned gardens. 

Digitalis (Foxglove). 2 to 4 feet. Plant 
in the spring or fall. Sow the seed in April in 

231 



THK PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

the seed-bod. Transplant about the middle 
of July into rows, 6 inches apart, and then 
transplant tiiially. not later than September 
"••^Oth, to where the plants are to bloom the 
following year. Foxgloves often seed them- 
selves, and the little plants thus seeded can 
be taken up and replanted in the spring. 
Blooms in June and July for about a month. 
One of the most beautiful and invaluable of 
all the perennials. Is white, pink, lavender 
and inirple. The great spikes are a mass of 
hanging, bell-shaped flowers, and a row of 
them in a border is a beautiful sight. 

Eeyxgium (Sea Holly \ ^2 to 3 feet. Plant 
in the early spring or fall. Blooms from July. 
A large, decorative plant, suggestive of 
a thistle, with grey-green flowers. Excellent 
in shrubberies and wild gardens. 

ErPATORir:M plrpureum. Ih to 4 feet. 
Plant in the spring or fall. Blooms from 
August until frost. A very healthy, useful 
plant. Good in borders or the wild garden. 
The flowers grow in clusters, and are white 

232 



SHRUBS, VINES, PLANTS AND BULBS 



and, in the Purpureum, our native variety, 
purple. 

FUNKIA SUBCORDATA and F. CCERULEA 

(Plantain Lily; Day Lily). XYi to 2 feet. 
Plant in the 
spring or fall. 
Should be rarely 
disturbed. 
Blooms in Au- 
gust and Sep- 
tember. The 
broad, glossy 
foliage is very 
ornamental, and 
the white, or 
lilac, flowers are 
attractive. Does 
w^ell in the sun 
but prefers par- 
tial shade. Funkia 

Gaillardia graxdiflora ("Blanket Flower). 
2 feet. Plant in spring or autumn. Begins to 
bloom in June and continues all summer. A 

V6?> 




THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

most effective perennial, with nowers shading 
from brown in the center through crimson and 
orange to yellow on the edge of the petals. 
It should be protected in winter. 

Gextl^jnta AxDREWsn iBlue Gentian). 2 
to 3 feet. Plant in the spring or faU. Blooms 
in September. This familiar wood and meadow 
flower is a deep, rich blue. Particularly good 
in damp places. 

GTPSOPHrL-i PAXicTTLATA 'Baby's Breath). 
2 to 3 feet. Plant iu the spring or fall. Blooms 
in August and September. A mass of dehcate, 
tiny white flowers. Perhaps more graceful 
and dainty than any other perennial. 

Grasses, Oexa:mextai.. 6 inches to 10 feet. 
Plant in the spring or fall. AJl grasses need rich 
soil and plenty of water. Erlantthtts Ravex':x-E 
(Plume Grass, or Hardy Pampas) . Gyxeriu^i 
ARGEXTEE3I (Pampas Grass). A verj^ effective 
grass with long, sflvery plumes. Phal_\ris 
ARrxTDES'ACEA VARiEGATA. Variegated Ribbon 
Grass. Uxiola latifoll^ (Spike Grass) . One of 
oiu" finest and most ornamental native grasses. 

234 



SHRUBS, VINES, PLANTS AND BULBS 



Helianthus multiflorus plenus (Hardy 
Sunflower). 4 to 8 feet. Plant in the spring 
or fall. Blooms from July to frost, according 
to the variety. An excellent perennial for 
shrubberies or large borders. The yellow 
flowers are both large and small, single and 
double. 

Heliopsis (Orange Sunflower). 2 to 3 feet. 
Plant in the spring or fall. Begins blooming 
in July. Much like 
the Helianthus, but 
begins to bloom 
sooner, and, being 
smaller, is very good 
for cutting. 

Helleborus 
(Christmas Rose). 
18 inches. Plant in 
the fall. Blooms in 
February and 
March. This plant 
is very satisfactory, 

as it gives many Helleborus niger 

235 




Tin: ru AC ruAL ilowi.u (.;auden 

larg'e whito blossoms when snow is itn the 
groiiiul. 

Hkmkiuhwllis Fi.AVA, Ki.oKiiAM aiul 
viKANriArv v'^'-'lhnv Pay Lily\ 1 ^ _> to i 
(cci. Plant ill the spriim' or fall. Hloonis in 
Jnno anii Jnl\\ aooordinu' to tho varioty. 
Flava, perhaps tho most familiar variety, has 
lariiv. sweet. yelKnv tlowers. 

Hkpatica vl-i^"<-'i' 1-eaf'. (i inches. Tlant in 
the fall. Blooms in the earliest spring, (hn* 
native llepatiea has blue tlowers; the enlti- 
A'ated N'arieties are white, red and pnrple. 
Lovely in shady plaees, alonu' streams or 
ponds, and in woody eorners. 

IIkspkkis MAUKONAi.is l\oeket\ to 4 
feet. Plant in fall. Plooms in May and Jnne. 
A strong-, healthy perennial, nnieh like a 
phlox. It is white, pink, lilae and pnrple, and 
qnite fragrant. It increases rapidly. 

lluusci"s ^losc^UKUTOS v^lallow\ ^> to 4 
feet. Plant in the spring' or in the fall. Blooms 
in .lnl\" and Angnst. A very beantifnl plant, 
easy to raise in moist places, bnt will sncceed 



SHRUBS, VINi:S, PLANTS AND liULBS 

ill shrubberies and hirge borders if mulched 
and kept wet. Tlie flowers are i)ale j)iuk, deep 
l)iiik with a deeper-colored eye, and white 
with a crimson eye. 

Hollyhock. 4 to 8 feet. Plant in the 
early spring. It can be easily raised from 
seed, which should be sown in rows early in 
April in the seed-bed, transplanted in July, 
about 8 inches apart, and then once more in 
September to where the plants are to bloom. 
Hollyhocks should be set out 2 feet apart. 
The plants must be sprayed with Bordeaux 
mixture as soon as they are up, and again 
about May 10th, and once more about June 
1st, to prevent rust — an unsightly disease 
which much disfigures the leaves and finally 
causes them to drop off. A beautiful and 
highly decorative plant, with large, single and 
double flowers that grow along the stalk and 
are of many colors. It is invaluable for the 
back of a border. 

Incarvillea (Hardy Gloxinia). 13^2 to 
2 feet. Plant in the early spring, in sun or 

237 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 



shade, but should be covered in winter. 
Blooms in July and August. A very attrac- 
tive new perennial. The rose-pink flowers 
grow in clusters and last a long time. 

Iris. 2 to 3 
feet. Plant all 
Iris in the fall, 
in rich, well- 
drained beds. 
They should be 
well mulched in 
summer and 
kept wet. In 
winter it is wise 
to use a slight 
covering. 

I. K.EMPFERI*] 

Japanese Iris (Japanese Iris). 

Blooms from the middle of June, for six 
weeks. One of the most wonderful of all gar- 
den flowers, and one which should never be 
omitted under any conditions. The great single 
and double flowers are white, violet, purple 

238 




SHRUBS, VINES, PLANTS AND BULBS 

and crimson. Some varieties are shaded and 
veined. No words can adequately describe 
their beauty. The roots increase and can be 
divided. 

I. Germanica (German Iris). Another most 
beautiful and satisfactory variety, not as large 
as the Ksempferi, but very desirable. Blooms 
from the end of May, for three weeks. It also 
increases and can be divided. The colors are 
yellow, white, mauve and purple, and many 
varieties combine two or more of these colors. 

I. Florentina (Florentine Iris). Blooms 
the end of May. 

I. Anglica, Mont Blanc (English Iris). 
Blooms early in June. 3 feet. 

I. SiBiRiCA (Siberian Iris). 3 feet. Blooms 
in May. A small, delicate, rather tall-growing 
Iris that is purple and white, veined with 
mauve. 

I. HisPANiCA (Spanish Iris). 1 to 13^ feet. 
Blooms the middle of June. Many colors. 

Lavandula (Lavender). 1}/^ to 2 feet. 
Plant in the spring or fall. Blooms in 

239 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

July and August. The sweet lavender of our 
grandmothers, who used the dried flowers 
among their linen to give it fragranee. Pretty, 
but not particularly effective. Many who do 
not want to be without it grow it in the 
vegetal>le garden. 

LiATKis i^Blazing Star; Gay FeatherV 4 to 
5 feet. Plant in the spring, or fall before 
October 15th. Blooms from July to Septem- 
ber. An invaluable plant in the mixed bor- 
der, for its tall spikes of purplish blue flowers 
are most eft'ective. 

Liliu:m (^Lily). Plant lilies in the early 
spring. or in October. They need well-drained, 
rich soil, and should be set out with a handful 
of sand around each bulb. They should be 
planted 8 to 18 inches deep, and be well I 
covered in winter, and, if possible, mulched 
in summer. All but the L. ruhrum do well in 
the sun, and look better in the border when 
planted in clumps of six or more. Beds of 
lilies, either of one variety or mixed, are 
very handsome. 

240 



SHRUBS, VINES, PLANTS AND BULBS 



L. AURATUM. Blooms from the middle of 
July, for one month. Perhaps the most beau- 
tiful and most fragrant lily. Will come up only 
a few years and 
then it is gone 
— why, no one 
seems to quite 
understand — 
but it is well 
worth having. 

L. SPECIOSUM 

ALBUM, Blooms 
in June and 
July. Needs full 
sun. This lily 
can be separated 

about every Liliura auratum 

three or four years. It must be planted in the 
fall, by October 15th. 

L. Canadense (Meadow Lily). Plant in the 
spring, or in October. Will grow anywhere, but 
prefers a moist place. The flowers are yellow, 
red and orange. It increases very satisfactorily. 

241 




THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

L. Hansoni. Blooms in June. A perfectly 
hardy, yellow Japanese lily. 

L. LONGiFLORUM. Blooms early in July. 
Much like the Bermuda lily, but it is hardy. 

L. TiGRiNUM. Blooms in July and increases 
rapidly. The old-fashioned Tiger hly. By 
planting the little black bulbils that are found 
on the stalk, any number of bulbs can be 
procured. 

L. sPECiosuM RUBRUM. Blooms the end 
of x4ugust and early in September. A pink 
variety that thrives and increases; needs 
partial shade. 

L. RUBELLUM. Blooms the middle of June. 
A pale pink lily. 

L. Krameri. Blooms the middle of June. 

L. Brownii. Blooms the middle of July. 
A large lily, white inside and shaded on the 
outside with brown and purple. 

L. Wallace:. Blooms the end of July. A 
large, apricot-colored lily with brown spots. 

L. Batemanni. Blooms the end of July. 
An apricot-colored lily without spots. 

242 



SHRUBS, VINES, PLANTS AND BULBS 

L. Chalcedonicum (Turk's Cap). Blooms 
the end of July. This hly grows in clusters 
and looks like a small tiger lily. 

L. Leichtlini. Blooms in August. A 
Japanese lily that is pale yellow with purple 
markings. 

L. suPERBUM. Blooms all through August. 
A very healthy, free-blooming lily with crim- 
son-orange flowers. Sometimes there will be 
as many as thirty flowers on one stalk. 

L. Melpomene. Blooms middle of August. 
Much like the Rubrum but more brilliant in 
color. 

Lobelia cardinalis (Cardinal Flower; 
Syphilitica hybrida, Great Lobelia). 1 to 3 
feet. Plant in the spring or fall. Needs a good, 
rich soil, and must be kept verj^ wet. Blooms 
in August and September. The Cardinal 
Flower seen growing beside all mountain lakes 
and streams is a rich, fier}^ red, while the 
Great Lobelia has tall spikes of blue or white 
flowers. The blue is the best. 

243 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

Lysimachia clethroides (Loosestrife). 2 to 
3 feet. Plant in the spring or fall. A very 
beautiful perennial with white or yellow flow- 
ers. The L. clethroides has tall, drooping spikes 
of small white flowers. 

LupiNus (Lupine). 2 to 4 feet. Plant in 
the spring or fall. Blooms the end of May, for 
three weeks. Needs good, rich soil and plenty 
of water. This perennial is easily raised from 
seed, which should be sown in mid-April after 
being soaked for twenty-four hours. It is very 
healthy and hardy. The tall spikes of blue, 
white or pink flowers are most effective, and 
quite invaluable in the borders. 

Lychnis Chalcedonica (London Pride; 
Campion). 1 to 3 feet. Plant in the spring or 
fall. Very easy to grow, thriving in any soil. 
Blooms from June, according to variety. A 
popular hardy plant with white, rose or crim- 
son flowers. The best-known variety, Lon- 
don Pride, blooms all summer and has vivid 
scarlet heads of bloom. 

MoNARDA DiDYMA (Oswcgo Tea) and rosea 
244 



SHRUBS, VINES, PLANTS AND BULBS 



(Bee Balm). (Bergamot.) 2 to 3 feet. Plant 
in the spring or fall. Thrives in any soil and 
in either sun or shade. Blooms in July and 
August. The odd flowers are crimson, rose- 
colored and white. Bee Balm is the old, 
familiar crimson variety. 

MoNTBRETiA. l3^ to 2 fcct. Plant the 
bulbs in April and May, in clumps of twelve 
or more. Should be protected in winter. 
Blooms all summer. One of the most brilliant 
of our summer- 
flowering bulbs. 
The spikes of del- 
icate flowers are 
yellow, orange 
and scarlet. 

Peonies, 
Tree. 2 to 4 
feet. Plant in 
the spring or fall. 
Perfectly hardy, 
but should be 

somewhat pro- Peony 

m6 




niK rKAcriCAi. flowfu CiARDkn 



ttx^ttxi in Avinter. and, as they start early, 
should be manured in the fall. Bkx^m from 
the middle of May. The tlowers aiv ri>se and 
\Yhite, and some varieties are variegattxi. 

P. Japanese Single. "^ to S^o f*^^l- Plant 
in the fall. Bloom in ^lay and June. Even 
more beautiful than the oi\linary double peony. 
r.. Povt^LK Ukkbaokoi's. 8 to 4 tWt. 
riant in the fall, so that the erv^wu is oo\ertxi 
with about 8 inehes of soil. A gixxi. rieh soil 
and a simny plaix^. with plenty of water while* 

the b u d s a r e 
forming, will 
make them mag- 
nitioent. They 
will, h o w e V e r , 
thriAe under anj' 
conditions, for 
they are very 
hardy, healthy 
and quite free 
frv^m jx'sts of any 
kind. All peonies 




SHRUBS, VINES, PLANTS AND BULBS 

should he manured in tlie fall, as they start 
very early. When once {)lanted, peonicvs 
should rarely, if ever, be disturbed. Bloom 
in May and June. The best and most beauti- 
ful of all spring flowers. Better in masses, or 
in rows, than as individual plants. 

Papaver orientale (Oriental Poppy). 2 
to 4 feet. Plant in early spring, or fall, in 
almost any soil. With occasional watering, 
and a mulch in the fall, this plant will thrive 
and increase greatly in size, and the roots 
may be divided. Blooms in May and June. 
Far surpassing all other poppies in size and 
brilliancy of color. It is scarlet and pink. 
Can easily be raised from seed. 

P. NUDICAULE (Iceland Poppy). 1 to '^ feet. 
Plant in the spring or fall. Blooms all sum- 
mer. Bright green, fern-like foliage, and deli- 
cate white, yellow, orange and scarlet flowers. 
A pretty, healthy plant, easy to grow. 

Phlox. Many varieties. 3 to 4 feet. 
Plant 18 inches apart, in the fall, from Octo- 
ber 1st to 15th, or in earliest spring. Needs a 

S47 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

rich soil. Plenty of watering increases the 
size of the blossoms. Every three years, each 
plant should be lifted, separated into bunches 
of from three to four stalks each, and reset. 
The mildew which attacks the leaves in 
moist summers can be arrested by a dusting 
of powdered sulphur, or by spraying with Bor- 
deaux mixture. Phlox will bloom from June 
until frost if both early and late varieties are 
chosen, and if the heads are cut off as soon 
as they have finished blooming. One of the 
most satisfactory of all perennials, and abso- 
lutely indispensable to the hardy garden. 
It would be almost impossible to have too 
many plants, as there are so many varie- 
ties and the range of colors is so great — 
white, white with pink and red and purple 
eyes, all the shades of pink from rose to 
cherry, scarlet and red, combinations of rose 
and red, purple and combinations of pur- 
ple and many mottled varieties. By breaking 
off the flower-heads as soon as they have 
bloomed, a second crop will often be produced. 

248 



SHRUBS, VINES, PLANTS AND BULBS 

P. SUBULATA (Moss, or Mountain Pink). 
6 inches. Plant in the fall. Blooms in early 
spring. The pretty evergreen foliage is quite 
hidden in blooming -time by a mass of color — 
rose, lilac and white. Good for the rock-garden. 

Physostegia (False Dragonhead). 3 to 4 
feet. Plant in the spring or fall. Blooms in 
July and August. A very beautiful perennial, 
with great spikes of pink-and-white bloom. 

Pentstemon barbatus Torreyi, and P. 
DIGITALIS (Beard Tongue) . 2 to 4 feet. Plant 
in the early spring, or between October 1st and 
15th. Blooms from June to September. The 
tall spikes of bloom are white, red and blue. 
The P. barbatus Torreyi is perhaps the most 
beautiful variety. Its spikes of flowers are a 
brilliant scarlet. It blooms in June and July. 
The P. digitalis has long heads of white flow- 
ers. It increases rapidly and is very effective. 

Platycodon Mariesi (Balloon Flower; Jap- 
anese Bellflower). 2 to 3 feet. Plant in the 
spring. Needs good soil and covering in win- 
ter. Blooms from the middle of July, for six 

249 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

weeks. A beautiful perennial, not widely 
known. The blue or white cup-shaped flowers 
are like little balloons when in bud. It is not 
attacked by pests and is very healthy; has 




Platycodon 

often nearly a hundred blossoms on one 
plant, and is easily raised from seed. 

Pyrethrum. 3 to 5 feet. Plant in good 
soil in the spring or fall. Must have full sun. 
Blooms in June and again in September. A 
very fine perennial, with great daisy-like 
flowers in crimson, white and pink. Can be 
raised from seed. 

RuDBECKiA, Golden Glow (Cone Flower). 
250 



SHRUBS, VINES, PLANTS AND BULBS 

4 to 8 feet. Plant in the fall or early spring. 
An absolutely hardy, healthy perennial that 
will grow in any soil. Useful as a screen or in 
the back of a border. Must be staked. It 
increases tremendously, and is good for cut- 
ting. It should be divided in October. Spray- 
ing with tobacco water will kill the aphids 
that sometimes attack this plant. There are 
several varieties — some with yellow, others 
with purple flowers. The best-known va- 
riet}^ Golden Glow, is in blooming-time a 
mass of deep yellow blossoms, like small, 
double sunflowers. 

Salvia grandiflora azurea. Can be raised 
from seed sown when the ground is warm, and 
also increased by separating the roots. Plant 
grows from two to three feet high, and is 
covered, in August and September, with open 
clusters of light blue flowers. The plants 
need winter protection; in cold localities, the 
coldframe is advisable for the first year. 

Scabiosa Caucasica and S. alba. 1^ 
to 2 J/2 feet. Plant in the spring or fall, 

251 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

in any ordinary soil, but it must have a sunny, 
well-drained place. Blooms from June to 
September. The large, delicate blue and white 
flowers are pretty in the border and good for 
house decoration. 

Sedum spectabile (Stonecrop). "^ to 8 
inches. Plant in the spring or fall. Blooms 
in August and September. The low-growing 
varieties are good for rockeries, and the taller 
ones are useful in borders for late summer 
blossoming. The heads of bloom are white, 
rose and crimson. Perhaps the prettiest 
variety is the 5. spectabile, with pink flowers. 

Spir.ea aruncus, S. pakviata and S. pal- 
MATA ELEGANS (Mcadow Swcct; Goat's Beard). 
'■2 to 6 feet. Plant in the spring, or in the fall 
between October 1st and 15th. Prefers partial 
shade and a good, rich soil. Blooms in June 
and July. A very beautiful perennial with 
heads of feathery pink, white or crimson 
flowers. The -S. aruncus, a white variety, is 
most attractive. The *S. palmata elegans and 
8. palmata are fine pink varieties. 

252 



SHRUBS, VINES, PLANTS AND BULBS 



Trillium (Wood Lily; Wake Robin). 6 to 
8 inches. Plant in the fall. Blooms in April 
and early May. An excellent plant for 
any shady cor- 
ner. Its favor- 
ite situation is 
under trees, or 
along a pond or 
brook. 

T R I T o M A 
(Red-hot Poker). 
3 to 5 feet. Plant 
in the fall, for it 

starts very early Trillium grandiflorum 

in the spring. Blooms from August until frost. 
A very effective plant, with tall, stiff spikes 
of bloom that are a brilliant scarlet, shading 
to orange on the tips of the queer, tube- 
shaped flowers. It increases rapidly. It will 
grow in any soil, but is much improved by a 
good, rich soil. Tritoma should be well 
covered in winter. In fact, some growers 
recommend taking up the roots in very cold 

253 




THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

localities and storing them in sand in a cool 
cellar. It is effective in borders and also in 
masses, either in beds or in front of other taller- 
growing plants. Is easily raised from seed. 

Valeriana coccinea alba (White Vale- 
rian), "i to 3 feet. Plant in the fall, before 
October 15th, for it starts very early. Blooms 
in May and June. An attractive, fragrant 
perennial, excellent in a white border. The 
tall-growing heads of bloom are a great addi- 
tion to an old-time garden. 

^^ERONICA LONGIFOLL^. SUBSESSILIS (Speed- 
Well). 1 to 3 feet. Plant in the spring, that it 
may become well established before winter. 
A beautiful blue perennial, blooming, from the 
middle of July, for a month. Plants three 
years old bear eight to ten tall spikes of 
blossoms; needs a good soil and plenty of 
watering; is very healthy and quite hardy if 
covered in winter. 

ViNCA (Periwinkle, or Trailing ^lyrtle). 
6 inches. Plant in the spring. Blooms in 
midsummer. A trailing evergreen plant, with 

254 



SHRUBS, VINES, PLANTS AND BULBS 

star-like blue flowers. Can be planted with 
success wherever grass will not grow — in very 
shady places, around the roots of trees or on 
steep slopes. 

Violet, Hardy. 6 inches to 1 foot. Plant 
in the spring, or fall before October 15. 
Blooms in early May. Our native white and 
purple violet — also a pretty yellow one — is 
an attractive, early - blooming flower for the 
border, or along streams or ponds. 

Wallflower. 1 foot. Plant in the spring 
or fall. Blooms in June. One of the oldest 
perennials, always associated with our grand- 
mothers' gardens. The pretty brown, yellow- 
and maroon-colored flowers are familiar to 
many. 

Yucca filamentosa (Adam's Needle). 3 to 
4 feet. Plant in the spring. Blooms in July. 
A Mexican desert plant, and one of the most 
effective in the garden. The great spikes of 
bell-like, creamy white flowers, resembling 
orchids, are unequaled for effectiveness. It 
seems to prefer a very dry, sunny place, and 

255 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

hence will succeed where few other plants are 
satisfactory. It should be somewhat covered 
in winter, as a late spring frost is apt to kill 
the flower stalk, which starts very early. It is 
otherwise perfectly hardy and healthy, need- 
ing no water or fertilizer. 

ANNUALS 

AcROCLiNiUM (Everlasting). Ij to Ij feet. 
Sow the seed early in spring, and trans- 
plant later to where it is to bloom. Blooms 
from early in July. This plant blossoms pro- 
fusely and has a wide variety of colors. 
White and pale pink are the best. 

Ageratum (Floss Flower). 1 to l}^ 
feet. Sow the seed in a hotbed in March. 
Transplant to the open ground in May, or 
sow the seed outdoors in May and transplant 
later. Blooms from early in July until late 
fall, if the dead flowers are cut off. Perhaps 
the most satisfactory blue bedding-out plant. 
The feathery blossoms grow in such profusion 
that the foliage is often quite hidden. It is 

256 



SHRUBS, VINES, PLANTS AND BULBS 

white and several shades of blue, but as a 
blue flower it is eminently successful 

Aloysia citriodora (Lemon Verbena). 8 
inches to 2 feet. Plant out-of-doors in May. 
Can be started from cuttings, or small plants 
can be bought from any nurseryman. The 
pretty, very fragrant leaves are familiar to 
all, and can be put to many uses. 

Alyssum (Madwort). 4 to 8 inches. Sow 
the seed in May where it is to bloom. Blooms 
almost all summer. A most satisfactory 
flower for edging borders. Its delicate clus- 
ters of sweet-scented, tiny white flowers 
make a good frame for the larger, handsomer 
and showier flowers. 

Antirrhinum (Snapdragon). 1 to 23^ feet. 
Some sow the seed for early blooming in the 
fall and cover lightly during the winter, 
but this can be done safely only in rather mild 
climates. In cold localities, it is better to 
start snapdragon in hotbeds in March and 
transfer to the open ground in May. It 
needs a rich soil and a sunny situation. 

257 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

Blooms from July until frost, if the dead 
flowers are kept cut. A wonderful flower, just 
beginning to be appreciated. There is no 
annual that more repays the gardener in 
effectiveness. The tall spikes of bloom are 
sturdy and healthy, and are one mass of the 
odd little flowers that give the plant its 
name. It comes in many colors — deep crim- 
son, deep yellow, and wonderful orange-brown 
tones, but the creamy whites and pale pinks 
are, perhaps, the most enchanting. 

Aster, Chrysanthemum-flowered, 
Brancpiing Peony -flowered. Ostrich 
Feather, and American. 1 to 3 feet. For 
early blooming, sow the seeds in a coldframe 
in April. For late blooming, sow in May, in 
the open ground. When the seedlings have 
two leaves, transplant them nine to twelve 
inches apart, where they are to bloom. They 
should have rich soil. A little wood-ashes 
is a good fertilizer. A sure method of de- 
stroying the black beetles that infest the 
blossoms is to pick them off, one at a time, 

258 



SHRUBS, VINES, PLANTS AND BULBS 



and drop them into a convenient pan of ker- 
osene. Early varieties begin blooming in July, 
and, by judicious sowing, a succession of 
flowers can be had until frost. There is no 
more satisfactory annual and none that 
better repays 
cultivation. The 
new varieties are 
wonderful in the 
size and fullness 
of the heads. 
The names of 
the different va- 
rieties quite de- 
scribe them. 
Particularly at- 
tractive are the 
Comet, a large, 

white branch- Aster, Ostrich Plume 

ing aster, and the Daybreak, an exquisite 
shell-pink American aster. Purity, another 
American aster, is snow-white. 

Balsam, Double Camellia-flowered 
259 




THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

(Lady's Slipper). 2 feet. Sow the seed indoors 
in April; outdoors in May. Transplant to 18 
inches apart. Blooms in July and August. 
The old-fashioned garden flower in modern 
perfection. In blooming-time, the plant is 
one mass of scarlet, pink or white flowers, 
from root to tip, the delicate green leaves 
showing between the blossoms. 

Begonia, Tuberous-rooted. 6 to 8 inches. 
Plant in the hotbed for early blooming, 
and in the open ground, in May, for blos- 
soming in August. Plant with the hollow end 
of the bulb uppermost, and cover with two 
inches of soil. It prefers partial shade, but, 
well mulched, is quite contented in the full 
sun. The bulbs should be well dried and 
stored in a cellar in winter. It has large, 
rough leaves and great, single, double and 
frilled, many -colored flowers; is a plant suit- 
able to use as a carpet under lilies, iris and 
other narrow-leaved flowers. 

Calendula (Pot Marigold). 1 to 13^^ feet. 
Sow the seed in May where it is to bloom — 

260 



SHRUBS, VINES, PLANTS AND BULBS 

preferably a sunny place. Blooms in August 
and September — until frost. The marigold 
of Shakspere's time in many modern varie- 
ties — both single and double. It comes in all 
the oranges and yellows, and many varieties 
are striped and shaded. 

Calliopsis. 13^2 to 2 feet. Sow the seed 
where it is to bloom in early spring, and, later, 
thin out to from eight to twelve inches apart. 
Blooms the end of July or August. The deli- 
cate, ragged, yellow flowers, with dark cen- 
ters, grow on tall, slim stems and are very 
dainty and attractive. 

Candytuft. 6 inches. Sow the seed in 
April where it is to bloom. Blooms in June. 
A mass of small white flowers; very good for 
edging beds and borders. 

Canna. 3 to 8 feet. Plant the roots either 
in the hotbed in April or in the open ground 
in May. Blooms from July until frost. No 
other bedding-out plant is more satisfactory. 
The tall spikes of bloom, either red or yellow, 
or the two colors combined, and the large, 

261 



THE PRACTICAL FlAnVEU CiAKDKN 

smooth, iireen leaves niake it exceedingly 
decorative. It can be used iu masses, or a few 
plants ean be scattered through the l>orders. 
The roots nuist be stored indoors in winter: 
they will be found to increase tremendously. 

Caknaiiox, Makciekufk, Pf.kpktial. 1 
to 1^2 hx^t. Sow the seed in ]\lay. in rich 
soil. Transplant in September to where it is 
to bloom the following spring. The plants 
should be set S inches apart, and must be 
kept well watered. In winter some co\'ering 
should be used. For early dowering, start the 
plants in the hotlHxis. and transfer in ]\[ay 
to the open ground, where they will lu^gin to 
bloom in a few weeks. The blossoms are 
double, very sweet, and of good size. They 
come in almost all colors and in many com- 
binations of color. 

Celosia ckistata plumosa iCoxcombV "2 
to 4 feet. Sow indoors in April and transplant 
in ^ia>' to where it will bloom, or sow out- 
doors in ^[ay. It does not require rich soil. 
Blooms from July until frost. A large, showy 



SHRUBS, VINES, PLANTS AND BULBS 

plant, with flowers at the end of every 
branch. They are a rich crimson and a good 
yellow. In some varieties the combs attain 
an enormous size. In the Plumosa the flower 
is more feathery and graceful. 

Centaurea Cyanus (Cornflower; Ragged 
Sailor; Bachelor's Button; Kaiser Blume). 3 
to 4 feet. Sow in early spring where it is to 
bloom. Blooms from June until frost if not 
allowed to go to seed. This familiar flower, 
with its beautiful blue color, comes in both 
single and double varieties, and can also be 
had in white and pink. After it is once estab- 
lished it will often seed itself and come up, 
from its own seeding, year after year. 

C. iMPERiALis (Royal Sweet Sultan). 2 
feet. Sow the seed in very early spring. 
Blooms the end of July and August. The 
flowers resemble delicate, dainty thistles, are 
purple, lilac, rose and white, and are excel- 
lent for combination with other flowers in 
house decoration. 

CoLEUS (Flame Nettle). 1 foot. Sow the 
263 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 



seed indoors in March. Transplant in May 

to open ground. A favorite bedding-plant 

with variegated leaves. 

Cosmos, Mammoth Perfection, Lady 

Lenox and Extra Early. 5 to 10 feet. Sow 

as early as possible in the open ground or 

under cover. 
Transplant to 
18 inches apart. 
Does better in 
a light soil and 
should be 
staked. Blooms 
from the end of 
July until frost. 
This almost 
shrub-like plant 
has a profusion 
of daisy-like 
<^'"'^""»« flowers that are 

white, pink, lavender, yellow and crimson. 

White Cosmos is probably the most beautiful. 

In localities where frost comes early, it is 

264 



^^>^ 


Pm^- 


i 


ia 


p?"'^ 


TT:--^ 


m^ 


• T 




r 


r^. 


vl 




>► 
^ 


m 


^^ 


IP 


s 




^1 



SFIRUBS, VINES, PLANTS AND BULBS 

wiser to buy only the early-flowering varie- 
ties, otherwise the plants will be killed just as 
they are ready to bloom. 

Dahlia, Cactus, Decorative, Giant, 
PoN-PoN, Collarette, Quill, Single Cen- 
tury, Single and Peony-flowered. 2 to 8 
feet. Plant the dormant roots in good, rich 
soil as early as possible in the spring, prefer- 
ably in a sunny place. Set out about three 
feet apart and allow only one shoot to grow, 
which should be thoroughly staked and well 
watered. The roots should be dried and 
stored indoors in winter. They increase 
greatly. The many varieties and wonderful 
colors of the modern dahlia make it a totally 
different flower from the one our grandmothers 
knew. The names are descriptive of the dif- 
erent varieties, and as there are so many of 
them, and they bloom from early in June or 
July until frost, a garden of dahlias might be 
very interesting. There is great pleasure in 
saving and planting one's own seed. The re- 
sults are most instructive and often surprising. 

265 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

DiANTHUS Chinensis (Annual Pink). 6 to 
18 inches. Sow the seed as early as possible 
in the spring. It begins to bloom a few weeks 
from the time of sowing and continues blos- 
soming profusely until frost. If slightly cov- 
ered, it will often survive the winter and 
bloom again the next spring. The flowers, 
single and double, come in almost all colors 
and in many combinations of color. They 
have that delightful cinnamon odor, so sugges- 
tive of an old-time garden. 

EscHSCHOLTZiA (California Poppy). 6 to 
12 inches. Sow the seed very thinly in early 
spring where it is to grow. Blooms all sum- 
mer. Useful in masses, for edging beds, or 
for planting in the rock-garden. The colors 
are white, pink, yellow, orange and scarlet. 

Gladioli. 2 to 3 feet. The bulbs need a 
good, rich soil and, preferably, a sunny place. 
They should be staked when a foot high, and 
in winter must be stored indoors. By a suc- 
cession of plantings, beginning in early May, 
continual bloom can be had from July until 

^66 



SHRUBS, VINES, PLANTS AND BULBS 

frost. This most beautiful and satisfactory 
summer-flowering bulb should always find a 
place in the garden. It is effective in masses, 
or as single plants in the borders of rose- and 
lily -beds. The tall spikes of bloom and the iris- 
like leaves are very decorative. The modern 
gladiolus is much like an orchid in shape and 
in the many wonderful colors in which it is 
produced. Some of the flowers are often 
three inches across, and no words can describe 
the marvelous colors. 

GoDETiA. 1 foot. Sow the seed in early 
spring and transplant later to a foot apart. 
Prefers a rather poor soil and partial shade. 
Blooms from July until September. An 
attractive annual with many delicate poppy- 
like flowers that are white, red or pink. Good 
as a border to flower-beds. 

Geranium (Pelargonium). 1 to 13^ feet. 
Start the dormant roots, or slips, in March, 
indoors, or plant them in the open ground in 
May. Blooms from June until frost. A 
popular bedding-out plant; good for terrace 

267 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

or piazza decoration. The flowers, single or 
double, are red, pink and white. The leaves 
are round and furry, and, in some cases, va- 
riegated. Some varieties are fragrant, such 
as the rose and lemon geranium. 

Helianthus (Sunflower). 3 to 10 feet. 
Sow the seeds in April or May in a sunny 
place. Blooms from July until frost. Another 
old garden flower which is a rich, glowing yel- 
low. Some sunflowers are of great size, others, 
and perhaps the most attractive, are quite 
small. 

Heliotrope. 1 to 1 1/2 f^^t. Sow the seed 
in the greenhouse very early in the spring, 
or start in greenhouse from slips and trans- 
plant later where it is to bloom. It needs a 
rich soil and plenty of sun. Blooms from the 
first of July until frost, and is a very fragrant 
and beautiful blue-purple floAver. In warm 
climates it lives out-of-doors all winter and 
grows as large as an ordinary shrub. An 
excellent bedding-out plant, as it is a mass 
of rich color through most of the summer. 

268 



SHRUBS, VINES, PLANTS AND BULBS 

Hyacinthus candicans (Cape Hyacinth). 
3 to 5 feet. Plant the bulb in bed or border 
in early spring. Blooms in July and August. 
A beautiful white summer-flowering bulb, 
with tall spikes of drooping hyacinth-like 
flowers. Quite invaluable. The bulbs are 
hardy and should remain in the ground in 
winter. 

IsMENE CALATHiNA (Peruvian Daffodil). 
11^2 to 2 feet. Plant the bulbs in the open 
beds in spring. Blooms in iVugust. A little- 
known, but beautiful summer-blooming bulb. 
It has great, queer, white, lily-shaped flowers; 
very interesting and attractive. The bulbs 
should be stored in winter. 

KocHiA (Standing Cypress). 1 to 3 feet. 
Sow the seed in spring and transplant into 
rows about a foot apart. A pyramidal-shaped 
plant with fine, feathery foliage that in sum- 
mer is a light, delicate green; later the whole 
plant becomes a brilliant red. Very good for 
a little hedge around the seed-bed or the 
vegetable garden. 

^69 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

Marigold, African and French. "2 to 4 
feet. Sow the seed in early spring and trans- 
plant, when fonr inches high, to where it will 
bloom. Blooms from Angust until frost. A 
most decorative annual, with its handsome 
cut leaf and its many large ball- or daisy- 
shaped flowers, that are either a rich lemon- 
yellow or a deep orange. Xo flower is easier 
to grow, but, as it has a very pungent odor, 
many do not care for it near the house or 
for indoor decoration. 

Mignonette (Reseda). 6tol'-2 inches. Sow 
the seed in early spring and again in July. 
Blooms by such successive sowing from June 
until frost. It needs a rich soil. An old- 
fashioned garden never seems quite com- 
plete without this fragrant flower of our 
grandmother's time. The spikes of delicate 
green and white bloom combine well with 
other flowers. It is not difficult to grow. 

Myosotis (Forget-me-not). 6 to l'^ inches. 
Sow the seed where it is to bloom. Blooms 
in June. Is perennial in some localities if 

270 



I 



SHRUBS, VINES, PLANTS AND BULBS 



covered in the winter. It thrives in moist, 
shady places. The popular flower of song 
and story, with silvery green leaves and little 
blue, star-like flowers. 

Nasturtium, Dwarf and Climbing 
Varieties. Sow the seed where it is to bloom 
— preferably a 
sunny place. 
Blooms from 
July until frost. 
The blossoms 
come in almost 
all colors, plain 
and variegated, 
are very delicate 
and suggest a 
fairy's peaked 
cap. The light 
green leaves are 
nearly round 
and very pret- 
tily veined. It 

thrives almost Nasturtium 




^71 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

anywhere and responds to the sHghtest care. 
In fact, no other annual is so very easy to 
grow. 

NicoTiANA AFFiNis and Sander.e Hy- 
brids (Tuberose-flowered Tobacco). 2 to 3 
feet. Sow seeds in early spring. Blooms from 
July until frost. The sweet-scented white 
flowers of these fall annuals are very attrac- 
tive against a dark background of shrubs. 

NiGELLA (Love-in-a-Mist) . 1 foot. Sow 
seeds in early spring. A free-blooming annual. 
The curious-looking flowers are blue and 
white. 

(Enothera (Evening Primrose). 3 feet. 
Sow the seed in spring and transplant to a 
sunny place. Blooms in July and August. 
The large yellow, white and pink flowers re- 
main closed during the day, opening wide 
after sundown. 

Pansy. 6 to 1''2 inches. Sow the seed in 
drills. Cover very lightly with rich soil. 
Transplant to a sunny place, 8 inches apart. 
Seed can be sown in August, transplanted in 

272 



SHRUBS, VINES, PLANTS AND BULBS 

September and kept covered all winter. The 
iVugust-sown seed will bloom the middle of 
the following May, and seed sown in April 
will bloom the end of June. This familiar 
flower is good for borders, around flower- 
beds, or as a carpet with tall-growing plants. 
There are many varieties. 

Petunia, Double Large-flowering, 
Single Large-flowering, Single Bed- 
ding and Rosy Morn. 1 to 13^ feet. The 
seed should be sown indoors and transplanted 
to the open ground in May. Blooms from 
June. Wholly unlike the old-fashioned petunia. 
The flowers are of great size, single or double. 
Many varieties are fringed, and come in the 
most beautiful colors. It is a revelation to 
see what the hybridizer has done with a plain, 
old-fashioned, and rather unpopular, flower. 

Phlox Drummondii. 6 to 12 inches. Sow 
seed in the open ground as soon as all danger 
of frost is past. Transplant later to where they 
are to bloom. Blooms continuously from a 
few weeks after the seed is sown until frost. 

273 



rill' ru AC lUAi riowFK c^aupkn 

Hoally a dwarf auiuial plilox. Color, white, 
pink, lilac, scarlet ami erinison. V'tl'eetive as 
an edging' for beds or a earpet under taller- 
growing plants. 

IVvrvXKK. SlNAU.K AnM Al. aud OcH Bl.K 

An MAI. roppy\ S inehes to ^^ feet. Sow 
the seed in early spring and thin out the 
plants to from o to 1 inehes apart. Blooms in 
July. A bed of annual poppies in full bloom 
is most etfeetive in the garden. The large 
and small, single and double tlowers eome 
in many exquisite eolors, and it is ditHeult to 
decide which are most beautiful — the great, 
ragged, double ones or the delicate single 
tlowers with their large centers. 

PoKriLACA v^ii^H^^'^i^^^- ^^ inches. Sow 
the seed where it is to grow. Blooms all sum- 
mer. A very healthy, easily -grown annual 
that loves a sunny place. Profusely coveivd 
with red. yellow, white, pink or variegateii 
tlowers. Ciood to plant in the rock-garden. 

Ru UAKDiA vCallaV ^2 to :> feet. Plant the 
bulb in ^Lay in the open border or bed. 

274 



SHRUBS, VINES, PLANTS AM) BULBS 

Should be staked. Blooms in August. Fa- 
miliar as a greenhouse plant but not usually 
seen in gardens. It is, however, very attrac- 
tive, and when used, like gladiolus and tube- 
roses, among roses, or in the lily beds, will 
be found satisfactory. The bulbs should be 
stored in winter. 

RiciNUS (Castor-Oil Bean). 8 feet. Sow 
seed early in the spring. Great ornamental 
plants with large reddish green leaves and 
red fruit. Decorative in shrubberies or against 
buildings. 

Salpiglossis (Painted Tongue). 13^2 to 2 
feet. Sow seed in hotbed and transplant to 
the open ground in May. Blooms from July 
until frost. The flowers of this annual are 
delicate, attractive and suggestive of an 
orchid. They come in various colors — purple 
and gold, rose and gold, scarlet and gold, 
white and gold. The petals of the flowers 
are one color and the deep veining another. 

Salvia, Bonfire (Scarlet Sage). 3 feet. 
Sow in the hotbed in February. Transplant 

275 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

in May to where it is to bloom. Blooms from 
middle of July until frost. Sometimes con- 
sidered a perennial, but will not survive 
the winter in our northern climate. A very 
beautiful and popular bright red flower that 
looks equally well in masses or as a single 
plant in a red border. 

S. PATENS (Blue Sage or Salvia). 2 to 23^ 
feet. Sow in the hotbed in the early spring 
and transplant to where it is to bloom. Blooms 
from July. No other flower in the garden 
is of quite the same rich, brilliant blue; 
is somewhat the shape of the red salvia 
blossom, and grows around a spike about five 
inches long. Unlike the delphinium, in 
which the whole spike blooms at once, only a 
few scattered flowers blossom at a time; 
is nevertheless an attractive plant. Some- 
times considered hardy, but will not sur- 
vive very cold winters and should always be 
protected in winter. 

ScHizANTHUS (Butterfly Flower). 2 feet. 
Sow the seed in early spring in a sheltered 

276 



SHRUBS, VINES, PLANTS AND BULBS 

corner. Blooms a few weeks from the time of 
sowing. One of the most dainty and dehcate 
of all garden flowers. When in bloom, the 
whole plant is one mass of blossoms, orchid- 
like in shape and of many beautiful colors. 
It can never fail to please even the most 
difficult gardener. 

Stock (Gilliflower). 'i feet. Sow the seed 
in the hotbed for early blooming or in the 
open ground in May for later flowering. 
Blooms from July. One of the most beautiful 
annuals and should never be omitted from 
the garden. It is another of the old-time 
flowers that have come down from our grand- 
mothers' days. It has a delicate fragrance 
and the richness of the colors is always a 
delight to the eye. The deep yellow, deep 
red, deep purple, orange and browns are very 
fine. But the white and delicate shell -pink 
are perhaps the most satisfjang. 

Sweet Peas. 4 feet. Sow the seed as early 
as possible in rich, loamy soil — preferably in 
a trench. Cover the seeds very lightly with 

277 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 



earth, hilling up as the plants grow, 
and thin the plants out to ^2 inches apart. 
Must be kept well watered or the plants 
will shrivel and stop blossoming; all dead 
flowers and seed-pods should be kept cut 
for the same reason. Sweet peas should be 
staked with brush, or, better still, chicken- 
wire can be stretched for them to climb on, 
and is more tidy looking. Do not plant sweet 
peas in the same place too many years in 

succession. Begin 
to I^looni the end 
cf June and con- 
tinue indefinitely. 
No more beauti- 
ful and satisfac- 
tory flower for 
indoor d e c o r a - 
-^ tion. As they are 
better for that 
purpose when 
separated as to 
color, the wise 
i2T8 




Sweet Peas 



SHRUBS, VINES, PLANTS AND BULBS 

gardener will not buy mixed seeds but will 
buy and plant each variety by itself, and 
avoid the tiresome task of sorting the flowers 
according to color before putting them into 
vases. They come in every possible color and 
variation of color. But the white, rose and 
deep pink, lavender, deep maroon and deep 
purple will be found very beautiful. 

Tuberose. 2 to 3 feet. Plant in the open 
border in May. Blooms in August and Sep- 
tember. The bulb bears a very fragrant stalk 
of white bloom. It can be used in the same 
v/ay as gladioli, callas or other tail-growing 
summer bulbs and, like them, should be 
staked and the bulb stored indoors in winter. 

Verbena. 1 to 13/2 feet. Sow the seed in 
the hotbed and transplant to where it is to 
bloom in May. Blooms from early in June. 
The modern grower has so perfected this 
familiar flower, in its size and many beautiful 
colors, that it can hardly be recognized. The 
pale pink verbena is the most pleasing variety 
and is frequently used for bedding. 

279 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 



1 



Xeranthemum (Everlasting, or Immor- 
telle). 3 feet. Sow in May in the open gromid. 
Blooms from July until frost. Bears a quan- 
tity of white, pink, purple and red blossoms. 

Zinnia. 2 feet. Sow earlj^ in the hotbeds, 
or in May, in the open ground. Blooms from 
July. One of the healthiest and most bril- 
liant annuals, and useful to fill out the bor- 
ders and give them color in late summer. 
The colors are white, scarlet, yellow, orange 
and salmon-pink. The latter is perhaps the 
most desirable shade because, after July, there 
are so few light-colored flowers in the garden. 

HARDY VINES 

x\mpelopsis Lowii. Plant in the spring. 
A vine of the same characteristics as Avipe- 
lopsis Veitchi, but the foliage is smaller and 
deeper cut, giving to the vine a greater air of 
delicacy. 

A. QUiNQUEFOLiA (Virginia Creeper, or 
American Ivy). Plant in the spring, or 
transplant from the wild. The familiar five- 

280 



SHRUBS, VINES, PLANTS AND BULBS 

leaved vine that grows on all roadside fences 
and walls. It has clusters of small purple 
berries in the fall and is very hardy. It must 
be trained, for, unlike Ampelopsis Veitchi, it 
does not cling sufficiently. Good on wooden 
houses, walls and rustic work. 

A. Veitchi (Japan, or Boston Ivy). Plant 
in the spring. Very satisfactory against wood 
or stone, for it clings closely with its many 
tiny feet. 

B I G N O N lA G R A X D I F L O R A (T r U 111 p C t 

Creeper). Plant in the spring. Blooms from 
July. A perfectly hardy vine of rapid growth. 
It has clusters of large, orange-red, trumpet- 
shaped flowers, and its dense foliage makes 
it an excellent screen. 

Celastrus Scandens (Bittersweet). 
Plant in the spring, or transplant from fields 
or woods. The well-known wild vine with 
clusters of sweet white flowers in the spring 
and, in the fall, beautiful orange - colored 
berries that, after frost, burst their outer 
orange coat, revealing the scarlet fruit. 

281 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 



Clematis Hendersoni, Henryi and Jack-J 
MANi. Plant in the spring. Blooms in July.] 
A most beautiful vine of slow growth. It has] 

large star-shaped flow- 
ers, white, as in Henryi, 
or a deep purple, as in 
Jackmani. Other varie- 
ties are lavender, rose 
and carmine. 

C. PANICULATA, 

Flammula and Vir- 
GiNiANA (Japanese 
Virgin's Bower). Plant 
in the spring, or trans- 
plant the common \ ir- 
giniana from the fields 
and woods. Blooms in 
August and September. 
A very hardy, quick-growing, most satisfac- 
tory vine which, in blooming time, is a solid 
mass of small white flowers. 

DoLicHos Japonicus (Kudzu Vine). Plant 
in the spring. Blooms in August. It has 

282 




Clematis Jackmani 



SHRUBS, VINES, PLANTS AND BULBS 

racemes of purplish pink, pea-like blossoms. 
Is the most rapid-growing vine in cultivation, 
often growing 30 feet in a year. 

EuoNYMUS RADiCANS. Evcrgrccn. Plant in 
the spring. A very hardy, slow-growing vine 
with small, smooth, regular leaves, either dark 
green or variegated green and white. It clings 
closely to stone, wood and the bark of trees. 

Hedera Helix (English Ivy). Evergreen. 
Plant in the spring. The familiar vine with 
irregular leaves. Excellent for planting around 
stone houses or as a border around flower- 
beds, fountains or terraces. Not hardy north 
of central New Jersey unless covered in winter. 

HuMULUS (Hop Vine). Plant in the spring. 
Blooms in June and July. Of rapid growth 
and quite hardy. Very useful as a screen. 
The racemes of pale green, odd-looking flowers 
are followed by seed-pods which can be put 
to many uses. 

LoNiCERA (Honeysuckle). Plant in the 
spring. Blooms all summer. A familiar vine 
with white, yellow, pink or variegated flowers, 

283 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 

and, in some varieties, variegated leaves. Very 
fragrant, absolutely hardy, and a good grower. 

Polygonum multiflorum. Plant in the 
spring. Blooms in September and October. 
The flowers are tiny and white and cover the 
vine in great trusses of bloom. The leaves are 
large and heart-shaped. It is a strong, quick 
grower. Quite a new vine. ■ 

ViTis Labrusca and V. riparia (Fox 
Grape; Frost Grape). Plant in the spring, 
or transplant from the wild. Blooms in 
June. The tiny fragrant flowers become, in 
the fall, clusters of small, dark blue, rather 
bitter grapes. The large leaves make it a 
very ornamental vine. It is absolutely hardy. 

Wistaria Sinensis and W. Sinensis alba 
(Chinese Wistaria). Plant in the spring. 
Blooms in May and June. When in full 
bloom there is no more beautiful vine. The 
huge pendent racemes of purple or white 
flowers so cover the entire plant that it is 
a w^onderful, solid mass of color. It is very 
slow in starting but lives to a great age. 

284 



SHRUBS, A TNES, PLANTS AND BULBS 

CLIMBLNG ROSES 

Rambler Rose, Crimson, Lady Gay, Yel- 
low, White and Pink Dorothy Perkins. 
Plant in the spring, or by October 15th. 
Blooms end of June and July. No more 
beautiful hardy flowering vine. In blooming 
time the huge clusters of small roses — either 
crimson, cerise-pink, soft shell-pink, white or 
yellow — are a joy to behold. They, and all 
other climbing roses, must be trained and 
tied, for they do not cling. 

Prairie Queen. Plant in early spring or 
by October 15th. Blooms in July. Very 
hardj^ Blossoms of a deep rose color. 

Baltimore Belle. Plant in the spring, or 
in fall not later than October 15th. Blooms 
in June. The blush-pink blossoms of this 
rose grow in clusters as in the Ramblers. 

ANNUAL VINES 

CoB^A scandens (Cup-and-Saucer Vine). 
Sow the seed edgewise in the spring and just 

285 



THE PRACTICAL TLOWER GARDEN 

cover with soil. Blooms all summer. A very 
quick grower which easily clings to any 
rough surface, such as trunks of trees and 
trellises. The bell-shaped flowers are purple 
or white. 

Convolvulus (Morning Glory) . Sow in the 
early spring. Soak the seeds in warm water 
over night before sowing. Blooms almost all 
summer; the familiar, wide-mouthed, trumpet 
flowers of many beautiful colors and of both 
single and double varieties. 

EcHiNOCYSTis (Wild Cucumber Vine). Sow 
seed in early spring. Blooms all summer. 
One of the quickest-growing annual vines, — 
sometimes 25 feet in a summer. It has small 
yellow -white flowers. 

Ipomcea grandiflora (Moonflower). (Jap- 
anese Morning Glory.) Sow the seed in 
spring after the weather is settled; they 
should be soaked in warm water over night. 
Blooms all summer. It has very beautiful 
flowers, surpassing all other morning glories. 
Besides being a rapid grower, it is easy to 

286 



SHRUBS, VliNES, PLANTS AND BULBS 



cultivate. The white, fragrant flowers of the 
niooiiflower are five to six inches in diameter 
and appear at night and on duU days. 

Ornamental Gourd. Sow the seed early in 
spring. Blooms through July and August, 
and then bears the many-shaped fruits from 
which the vine gets its name. This vine 
has been known to grow as much as a foot 
in a day. 

SPRLNG-FLOWERING BULBS 

CoNVALLARiA MAJALis (Lily-of-the-Vallcy) . 
8 inches. Plant in the fall, in clumps, in the 
sun, in shady places, along streams or in 
wooded corners. It increases tremendously. 
Blooms in May and June. A very popular 
spring- flowering 
bulb which is 
exceedingly 
healthy and 
hardy. The deli- 
cate, white, bell- 
like flowers are Crocus 




287 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 



most fragrant, and the broad, smooth, green 
leaves decorative. 

Crocus. 4 to 5 inches. Plant in the fall, two 
inches apart, three inches deep, in good, rich 
ground. It should not be disturbed for sev- 
eral years; therefore it is often a good plan to 
plant it in the grass. Blooms the end of 
March and first of April, in many colors — 
white, yellow, purple, and some varieties are 
striped. A very popular bulb. 

Erythron- 
lUM. (Dog's 
Tooth Violet.) 
4 inches. Plant 
in the fall in 
any light soil. 
Blooms in April. 
These pretty 
yellow violets 
can be planted 
in groups in 
rockeries or in 

Narcissus, Emperor ^^Y sneltereQ 

288 




SHRUBS, VINES, PLANTS AND BULBS 

place. Very satisfactory in the borders of 
shrubbery. 

Fritillaria Imperialis (Crown Imperial). 
2 feet. Plant in the fall. Thrives in a rich, 
well-drained soil. Blooms in April or May. A 
tall-growing plant with dark green leaves and 
large, effective flowers in all the shades of 
red and yellow. 

Galanthus nivalis (Snowdrop). 6 inches. 
Plant in the fall, 2 to 3 inches deep, in a shady 
place. Blooms very early in the spring, often 
before the snow is off the ground. The single 
varieties bloom first; the double varieties later. 

Hyacinth. 1 foot. Plant in October in a 
light soil and a sunnj^ place. If the soil is 
heavy, some sand will be useful, and if other 
plants have been in the bed all summer, some 
well-rotted manure should be used. Plant 
the bulbs six inches deep to the bottom of the 
bulb, and six to seven inches apart. The 
bulbs must be planted evenly or they will not 
bloom at the same time. It is well to plant 
each bulb in a handful of sand, to insure 

289 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 



good drainage. A slight covering after the 
ground is frozen is beneficial. Blooms in May. 
One of the most popular of the spring-flower- 
ing bulbs. It is very fragrant and comes in 
man}' colors — blue, white, red, crimson, pink, 
lilac, mauve, yellow and orange. There are also 
both single and double varieties, but the single 
flowers are more graceful and often healthier. 
Jonquil. 1 foot. Plant in the fall. Treat 
in the same way as hyacinths. Blooms the 

end of April and 
May. A plant 
related to the 
narcissus. The 
clusters of deli- 
cate yellow flow- 
e r s are most 
attractive. 

M u s c A R I 
(Grape, Nutmeg 
or Feathered Hya- 
cinth) . 1 foot 

Narcissus, Sulphur Phcenix -pi , • ,i /. ii 

See page 291 riant m me tan, 

290 




SHRUBS, VINES, PLANTS AND BULBS 



either in beds or boxes. Will thrive in any soil 
and needs little care. Can be naturalized in 
the grass. Blooms in May. The delicate, 
pretty flowers are most attractive. This will 
be found a gen- 
e r al 1 y useful 
bulb. 

Narcissus, 
Sulphur Phce- 
Nix, Vox Siox, 
Ornatus, Post- 
icus, Emperor, 
Empress and 
Golden Spur. 
I to l}yi feet. 
Plant in the fall 
in rows in beds 
or in the grass. 
Will thrive in almost any soil or place. In- 
creases, and should not be disturbed for years. 
It seems to prefer a good soil and a partially 
shaded place. Blooms in April and May. 
No flowers are more graceful and attractive. 

291 




Narcissus, Von Sion 



THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 



Their charm is known to ah, and the poetry 
of all ages has sung their beaut3^ There 




Narcissus Ornatus 

292 



SHRUBS, VINES, PLANTS AND BULBS 



are single and double narcissi and daffo- 
dils, and there are white, yellow and the 
shades of yellow, or yellow and white. There 
is also a double white narcissus, which is 
particularly lovely. All these can be grown 
in the grass, in the wild garden, among 
shrubs and trees, or in wooded corners. 

SciLLA. 8 inches. 
Plant in the fall. 
Almost all varie- 
ties are quite 
hardy and may 
remain untouched 
in the ground for 
years. Blooms in 
April. Some scillas 
are w h i t e and 
rose, but the 
familiar variety 
is a deep, rich 
blue, which makes 
a beautiful con- 
trast with the Narcissus Poeticus. See page 2S1 

293 




THE PRACTICAL FLOWER GARDEN 



snowdrop and the crocus that bloom at the 

same time. 

Tulip, Murillo, Picotee, Isabella, Bou- 

TON d'Or, Yellow Rose, Pottebakker 

White, Pot- 
tebakker Scar- 
let, and Ges- 
NERiANA, and an 
infinite variety. 
Plant in the fall. 
They should be 
planted in the 
same way as 
hyacinths, except 
that, as the 
bulbs are smaller, 

Tulip, Picotee [^ [^ ^Ot llCCeS- 

sary to plant them so deep. The bulbs should 
be underground, four inches to the bottom 
of the bulb, and from five to six inches apart. 
A little sand around each bulb is often advis- 
able. Blooms from the middle of April to 
the end of May, according to the variety. 

294 




SHRUBS, VINES, PLANTS AND BULBS 

One of the most satisfactory and beautiful of 
the spring-flowering bulbs. It increases con- 
siderably and is very healthy, whereas the 
hyacinth in time dies out. Tulips come in 
manj^ colors and there are both single and 
double, early and late-flowering varieties, also 
the wonderful parrot tulips which have 
feathered edges and combine green with other 
colors. 



295 



4 



INDEX 



Ageratum, combined for color 
effect with crimson snap- 
dragons, 24; combined with 
sweet alyssum, 33-34; with 
Snowstorm petunia, 34, rais- 
ing of from seed, 90-91. 

Almond, pink double-flowering, 
■ combination of tulips and, for 
color arrangement, 11. 

Aniaranthus Abyssimcus, or 
lady's riding whip, 87. 

Anchusa Italica, raising of, from 
seed, 81-82. 

Annuals, description of various 
kinds of, and methods of 
raising from seed, 86-92. 

Apple trees, wild, used in a wild 
garden, 183-184, 180. 

Arborvitae, American, sheared 
plants of, for evergreen ex- 
terior decoration, 62; desir- 
ability of clipping, 63; as a 
decoration for terraces, 159- 
160. 

Ash trees, raising of, 108-109. 

Asparagus, successful fertiliza- 
tion of, 134-135. 

Aster beetle, remedy for, 142. 

Asters, transplanting of, 22-23; 
fertilization of, 128. 

Azalea mollis, combination of, 
with tulips and daphne, 11. 



Barron, Leonard, expert on lawns, 
49. 

Bay trees, soot as a fertilizer for, 
121; used for terraces, 157-158; 
attention required by, after 
being in winter quarters, 158. 

Beach grass for sea-side lawns, 49 

Beech trees, time for setting out, 
10. 

Birds, wild gardens a home for, 
184. 

Black walnut trees, raising of, 
106-108. 

Blue border, the, 18-19. 

Bocconia cordata, in white border. 
16. 

Bogs as natural nurseries for 
plants and shrubs, 174. 

Bon Arbor, as a fertilizer, 121, 
126-127; to be supplemented 
with water in case of dahlias, 
127; used for verbenas, helio- 
trope, stocks, and asters, 128. 

Bone meal, for grass, 45-46; 
value as a fertilizer for plants, 
121. 

Borders of herbaceous plants, 
13 ff.; the white border, 16- 
17; the pink, 17-18; the blue, 
18-19; the red, 19-20; the 
yellow and orange, 23-24; of 
white cosmos, pink and white 



297 



INDEX 



Japanese anemones, and pink 
and white asters, 30-31; 
account of author's treatment 
of an herbaceous, 132-133; 
border of hardy ivy, 159. 

Box edging, protection of, 59; re- 
planting of, GO; increasing by 
taking oiT clippings, 60; neces- 
sitj' of keeping down, espec- 
ially in cities, 61-62. 

Box trees, soot as a fertilizer for, 
121; for terraces, 157-158, 160; 
care of, after being in winter 
quarters, 158. 

Bulbs, planting of, in autumn, 
for borders, 31-32. 

Butterfly-flower, 89; for adorn- 
ment of terraces, 155-156. 

Calla lily, growing and fertiliza- 
tion of, 125-126. 

Campanula pyratnidalis, for dec- 
oration of terraces, 156; at St. 
Anne de Beaupre, 156-157. 

Campanulas, fertilization of, 128- 
129. 

Canterbury bell, fertilization of, 
128-129; for decoration of 
terraces, 157. 

Carnations, Marguerite, raising 
from seed, 82-83. 

Catalogues, remarks on seeds- 
mens, 5-6. 

Catalpa speciosa, a tree suitable 
for raising, 110. 

Cedar trees, transplanting of, 
57-58; improvement of, in 
formal gardens, by clipping, 
63-64; as a decoration for 
terraces, 159-160; in the wild 
garden, 167. 



Cedar walk, the author's, 52-55. 
Celosia, suited for pot culture 

and adornment of terraces, 

156. 
Clipping, of box edging, 61-62; 

of evergreens, 63-64. 
Close planting, advantages of, 8. 
Coal ashes used for protection of 

flowers, 79, 80. 
Cockscomb (Celosia plumosa), 

25-26. 
Coldframes, construction of, 92— 

93. 
Color-planting, in borders, 15- 

21; some suggestions for, 33- 

35. 
Columbines, combination of, 

with white lilacs, 10-11. 
Combinations of flowers and 

shrubs in planting, 10-35. 
Concrete, use of, in coldframe 

and hotbed construction, 92- 

93. 
Conifers, raising of, from seed, 

100-106. 
Connecticut Garden, the, 177- 

192. 
Cosmos, in borders, 30-31. 
Cottonseed meal for grass, 44- 

45, 46. 
Cow manure as a fertilizer, 120. 
Crab apples, pink-flowered, 

planting of, 10. 
Crab grass, destruction of, 47. 
Creeping bent for lawns, 49. 
Crimson rambler roses, 30. 

Daffodils, planting of, 10. 
Dahlias, raising of, from seed, 91 ; 

fertilizing, 121, 126-127. 
Dandelions, rooting out, 47. 



298 



INDEX 



Daphne, combination of Deutzia 
rosea with, 11. 

Delphinium, varieties of, and 
raising from seed, 74-76. See 
also, Larkspur. 

Deutzia rosea, color combina- 
tions with, 11. 

Diseases of plants, and remedies: 
larkspur blight, 136-137; mil- 
dew, 137-139; rose bugs, 140- 
141; thrip, 141; rose cater- 
pillar, 141; aster beetle, 141- 
142. 

English ivy for formal decora- 
tion, 159. 

Evergreens, desirability of grow- 
ing, 62-63: clipping of, 63-64; 
difficulties experienced in 
growing, 64-65. 

Fertilizers, 119 ff. : cow manure, 
120; ground bone meal, 121; 
poudrette, 121, 124; soot, 121, 
133; Bon Arbor, 121-122, 
126-128; sheep manure, 122, 
129; nitrate of soda, 122-123; 
humus, 131. 

Fertilizing plants in spring, 9. 

Fescue, fine-leaved, for lawns, 
49. 

Flowers, color arrangements of, 
3 if.; raising from seed, 71 ff. 

Foxgloves, fertilization of, 129. 

Fuchsias, for terraces and veran- 
das, 155. 

Garden Club of Philadelphia, 

mentioned, 139-140. 
Garden escapes, 171, 186. 
Gladioli, planting of, 21-22. 



Gloxinias, for terraces and veran- 
das, 155. 

Godetia, 26. 

Grass, care of, 41 ff. ; frequent 
rolling of, 44; cottonseed meal 
for, 44-45; ground bone meal 
and wood ashes for, 45-46; 
other tonics, 46; removing 
crab grass, orchard grass, 
weeds, and dandelions from, 
47-48; Kentucky blue, the 
finest for lawns, 48; mixture 
of Kentucky blue, red top and 
Rhode Island bent, 48-49; 
wood meadow, for use in 
shady places, 49; directions 
about mowing, 50. 

Grass paths, 50; seasons for 
making, 51; description of 
author's cedar walk, 52-54. 

Grass terraces, 160-161. 

Gray Glen, the, in the Connec- 
ticut Garden, 187-188. 

Hardy Asters, description of, 

and method of raising from 

seed, 80-81. 
Hardy ivy, border of, for terrace, 

159. 
Hedges of white pine, 106. 
Heliotrope, raising of, 90-91; 

fertilizing with Bon Arbor, 

121, 128. 
Hemlock glen, description of a, 

189-190. 
Hemlocks, raising from seed, 

100-106. 
Hen manure as tonic for grass, 

46. 
Herbaceous plants, cultivation 

of, 13 ff. 



299 



INDEX 



3 



H«'rb gardens, 35-36. 

Hollyhocks, white, used in white 
border, 16; pink, in pink bor- 
der, 17; red, in red border, 19; 
fertilizers for, 124-125. 

Horn shavings as a fertilizer, 133. 

Hotbeds, transplanting from, 
12-13; preparation and con- 
struction of, 92; the Sunlight 
Sash, 93. 

Huckleberry bush, possibilities in 
the, for a wild garden, 167- 
168, 179, 180. 

Humus, value as a fertilizer, 131. 

Hijacinthus candicans, 84-85. 

Hydrangeas, a growing distaste 
for, 30. 

Indian pipe in wild garden, 186- 
187. 

Intensive gardening, 8-9. 

Iris, German, combination of 
syringa with, in planting, 11; 
growing of, from seed, 86. 

Italian Alkanet, 81-82. 

Italian garden, terrace for, 154. 

Ivy, English, for formal deco- 
ration, 159; hardy, for border 
of terrace, 159. 

Japanese anemones, fertilization, 

of, 129. 
Japanese iris, cure for rose bugs 

on, 140-141. 
Japanese maples, use of, in a 

shrubbery, 11. 
Japanese snowballs, 11, 12. 

Kansas gay feather, 23. 
Kelway, English specialist in 
larkspurs, 74-75. 



Kentucky blue grass for lawns, 

48-49. 
Kochia, old-time annual, 88. 

Lady's riding -whip, so-called, 
87. 

Larches, time for setting out, 
10. 

Larkspurs, in borders, 14-15; the 
annual, 26; raising of, from 
seed, 74-76; blight which 
attacks, 136-137. 

Laurel, growths of, 168, 181. 

Lawn, care of the, 41 ff. ; rolling 
the, 44; cottonseed meal for, 
44-45; other tonics, 45-46; 
removal of crab grass, orchard 
grass, weeds, and dandelions 
from, 47. 

Lawns, Kentucky blue grass, red 
top, and Rhode Island bent 
for, 48-49; directions a])out 
mowing, 50; protection of 
new, with straw, corn-stalks, 
or old manure, 51; seasons 
for making a lawn. 51-52. 

Lilacs, white, combination of 
columbines with, 10-11. 

Lilies, in borders, 20-21; suit- 
abilitj' of, for terraces and 
verandas, 155; in a wild 
garden, 186. 

Lime, use of, on lawns, 47-48. 

Linden trees, raising from seed, 
109. 

Literature, the garden in, 35- 
36. 

Locust trees, raising from seed, 
115. 

Lombardy poplars, planting and 
raising of, 111-112. 



300 



INDEX 



Magenta phlox, 23-24. 
Magnolia trees, time for setting 

out, 9. 
Maidenhair fern in wild garden, 

187. 
Making a lawn, seasons for, 51- 

52. 
Mammoth cosmos in white 

border, 16. 
Manure, mixed with bone meal 

for fertilizing, 9; mixed with 

earth as a tonic for grass, 

46. 
Maples, raising from seed, 109. 
Marguerite carnations, raising 

of, from seed, 82-83. 
Mildew, soot a remedy for, 121; 

climbing roses, hybrid teas, 

and phlox attacked by, 137- 

138. 
Monkshood, raising of, 85. 
Mowing of lawns, 50. 

Nicotiana, planting for color 
effect, 34-35; raising from 
seed, 88. 

Nitrate of soda, method of use 
of, as a fertilizer, 122-123. 

Oleanders, for terraces and 

gardens, 157-158. 
Orchard, grass terrace opening 

into an, 161. 
Orchard grass, destruction of. 



Pansies, the passing of the, 27- 

29. 
Parsons, Samuel, mentioned, 49. 
Pavement of terraces, 152-153. 
Pentstemon barbatus Torreyii, 20. 



Pentstemons, raising of, from 
seed, 83. 

Peonies, growing of, from seed, 
85-86; desirability of a fer- 
tilizer to produce a second 
crop of blossoms, 133-134. 

Perennials, varieties of hardy, to 
be raised from seed, 74-86. 

Petunias, varieties and beauty of, 
24-25; combinations of, with 
other flowers, 34; raising from 
seed, 92; Bon Arbor a good 
fertilizer for, 121. 

Phlox, magenta, 23-24; fertilizers 
for, 124-125; treatment of 
mildew on, 138-139. 

Phlox Drummondi, 89. 

Pine trees, raising from seed, 
100-106; hedges of white pine, 
106. 

Pink border, the, 17-18. 

Planning a country place, desir- 
ability of expert advice, 
146. 

Poplar, the yellow, easily grown 
from cuttings. 111; raising the 
Lombardy, from shoots, 111- 
112. 

Poplars, time for setting out, 9. 

Poppies, sowing of, 21-22. 

Potted plants for decoration of 
terraces, verandas, doorsteps, 
etc., 154-155. 

Poudrette, excellence as a fer- 
tilizer, 121; use of, for phlox 
and hollyhocks, 124. 

Professional gardeners, a word 
about, 147. 

Protecting newly made lawns, 
51. 

Protection of box edging, 59. 



301 



INDEX 



Pyrethrum, varieties of, 7!t; 
raising of, from seed, 80. 

Red border, the, 19-20. 
Red top for lawns, 48. 
Retinosporas, clipping of, 63. 
Rhode Island bent for lawns, 48- 

49. 
Rolling, advisability of frequent, 

for grass, 44. 
Rose bugs, preventive mixture 

for, 140. 
Rose caterpillar, the, 141. 
Roses, bone meal a tonic for, 

129; transi)lanting of wild, 

178. 
Rosj- Morn variet>' of petunia, 

25. 
Rotting of seeds from rain, 72. 
Rudbeckia, the casting out of, 

30. 

Salpiglossis, 27, 88-89; sheep 

manure for fertilizing, 129. 
Salvia aziirca grandiflora, 83- 

84. 
Schizanthus, 27; description of, 

89; suitable for adornment of 

terraces, 155-156. 
Scotch soot as a fertilizer for 

foliage plants, 133. 
Sea-side lawns, 49. 
Seed, raising flowers from, 71 fT.; 

raising trees from, 97 iT. 
Seed-pods, preventing formation 

of, 15-16. 
Seeds, causes of failures of, 72- 

73; directions for sowing, of 

deciduous trees, 112-113. 
Shadow pond, the, in a wild 

garden, 184-185. 



Sheep manure, as a fertilizer for 
perennials, 122; for Japanese 
anemones, 129. 

Shrubberj-, combinations which 
can be used in, 11 ff. 

Shrubs, bogs and swamps as 
nurseries for, 174; trans- 
planting of, in winter, 175. 

Silver King variety of German 
iris, 145. 

Snapdragons, combination of 
crimson and ageratum, for 
color effect, 24; raising from 
seed, 90; successful fertili- 
zation of, 123-124. 

Snowstorm variety of petunia, 
24-25; combination of agcr- 
atinn and, for color effect, 
34. 

Sod, the need for and procuring 
of, 55-57. 

Solomon's seal, 169. 

Soot, as a fertilizer, 121; for 
foliage plants, 133; the bi st 
fertilizer for bay and box 
trees, 158. 

Spireas in white border, IG. 

Spring garden, planting the, 9- 
13, 31-.33. 

Starwort, varieties, colors, and 
raising of, 80-81. 

Stocks, starting of, in hotbeds, 
90; fertilizing, 128. 

Summer cypress, 88. 

Sunlight Sash, the, 93. 

Swamp maple, the, 108. 

Swamps, as nurseries for jilaiits 
and shrubs, 174. 

Sweet peas, sowing of, 21. 

Sycamore, raising from seed, 
109 



302 



INDEX 



Syringa, combination of German 
iris and, in planting, 11; the 
golden-leaved, used in a 
shrubbery, 11. 

Terraces, uses of, 151-152; ad- 
vantages of, 152; protection 
of, and pavement, 152-153; 
retaining-walls or banks of 
turf for, 153-154; flowering 
plants suitable for, 154-157; 
bay and box trees, and 
oleanders, 157-159; English 
and hardj' ivy, 159; American 
arbor^^tse and varieties of 
cedars, 159-160; grass ter- 
races, 160-161. 

Thrip, remedy for the. 141. 

Trailing arbutus in wild garden, 
187. 

Transplanting of annuals from 
hotbeds in spring, 12-13; 
transplanting of cedars, 57- 
58; of young trees, 104-105; 
of seedlings of deciduous trees, 
114-115; of wild plants, 172; 
of trees growing in wet places, 
173; of sod with wild flowers, 
174 ; of shrubs in winter, 
175, 

Trees, time for setting out soft- 
wooded, 9-10; raising from 
seed, 97 ff. ; time of planting 
seeds, 110; directions for 
sowing seeds of deciduous 
trees, 112-113; transplanting 
uhe seedlings, 114-115. 

Trillium, habitat of, 169. 

Tulips, combination of, with 
pink-flowered crab apples, 10; 
planted around pink double- 



flowering almond, 11; com- 
bination of Azalea mollis with, 
11. 
Tulip trees, time for setting out-, 
9 ; a difficult tree to raise from 
seed, 112; transplanting of, 
173; in a wild garden, 181. 

Valerian in borders, 17, 32. 

Verandas, plants suitable for, 
155-160. 

V^erbenas, 25; combinations of, 
with other flowers, 34; ease 
of raising from seed, 91; fer- 
tilizing with Bon Arbor, 
128. 

Walnut trees, raising of, 106-108; 
seeds to be planted in autumn, 
114-115, 

Water-gardens, 169-170, 185. 

Weigela, use of, in a shrubbery, 
11-12. 

Whale-oil soap a cure for the 
thrip, 141. 

White border, the, 16-17. 

Wild garden, the, 165 ff. ; loca- 
tions adapted for, 166; possi- 
bilities for, on run-down and 
neglected farms, 166-167; 
trees and shrubbery for, 167- 
168; laurel, swamp maple, and 
varieties of flowers for, 168- 
169; opportunity for a water- 
garden, 169-170; proper treat- 
ment of wild plants in, 171; 
transplanting wild plants, 
trees, and shrubs to, 172-175; 
the Connecticut Garden, 177 
ff. ; the "shadow pond," 184- 
185; the Gray Glen, 187-188; 



303 



INDEX 



the hemlock glen, 189-190; 
possibilities of wild gardening 
as illustrated by the Con- 
necticut Garden, 191-192. 

Willows, time for setting out, 9; 
best grown from cuttings, 111. 

Windflower, the, 169. 

Wood ashes for grass, 45-46. 



Wood meadow grass for use in 
shady places, 49. 

Yellow and orange border, flow- 
ers for, 23-24. 

Yellow cockscomb, 25-26. 

Yellow poplar, growing from cut- 
tings, 111. 






304 



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